Expanding my accumulation of S&Ws. Any models to avoid?

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I’m having a hard time finding a model 69 made before 1990. Or a model 29 with the endurance package. Got a lead on any of those? :)

You collect 70’s guns? I thought everyone knew that S&W only made junk after Bangor Punta bought them. That’s what everyone told me back then.

69 is a new model I believe. I'm not up on any of the new stuff or anything 44 mag for that matter.

I have a 36 from the late 60's, a 19 from the 70's and another 19 from the late 80's. They're all much nicer than anything built by S&W recently. When I say recently I mean in the last 10 or 15 years. I'm actually looking for another 357 right now but the cut off is probably going to be 80 ish or earlier. I'm not a collector, just like S&W revolvers. Don't know anything about Banga Puta.:D
 
View attachment 837546 Or, pick a cartridge and look for the revolvers that are so chambered.

I like the 45 ACP, here are some of mine.

Kevin

Those are very nice looking grips on what I take to be a modern Model 1950 (third from the top in the left hand column). Might I ask where a person would look for a pair of those? I have one that is an excellent shooter, but I have yet to find grips for it that really fit my hand. I see you have a Tyler (or other) adapter on yours.
 
Those are very nice looking grips on what I take to be a modern Model 1950 (third from the top in the left hand column). Might I ask where a person would look for a pair of those? I have one that is an excellent shooter, but I have yet to find grips for it that really fit my hand. I see you have a Tyler (or other) adapter on yours.

You are correct, that is a Model 22-4, one of my favorites. The grips on that are elk stag magnas with a grip adapter. I use adapters by Mershon, Pachmyer, and Tyler. (I got a good deal on a bunch of them.) There are others but so far I have not tried them.

The stag grips are either Grashorn, bgmtnman (on this forum) or ones I crafted myself. Since those are still white, I can say I did not make them.

There are “ivory” grips out there. Some are compounded from ivory dust, some are whitish plastic and some are ???? It all depends on your druthers. And wallet .....

A final option is English holly. A pure white wood that ages like ivory and has faint grain patterns. It is tough to find pieces thick enough for stocks but I have glued some up and been happy.

Kevin
 
ontarget, the Model 60 ND was a great choice at an excellent price. Since you already have a Model 10, I would round out your .38 Special collection with a 6" Model 14. The K-frame Masterpiece series featured some of the best revolvers of the era. They are still affordable and many are in excellent shape since they were not normally carried or holstered but used strictly for target practice.
 
ontarget, the Model 60 ND was a great choice at an excellent price. Since you already have a Model 10, I would round out your .38 Special collection with a 6" Model 14. The K-frame Masterpiece series featured some of the best revolvers of the era. They are still affordable and many are in excellent shape since they were not normally carried or holstered but used strictly for target practice.

I just picked up a model 64 stainless with the 4 inch HB. Perfect mate to my model 10.
I do think I will begin a search for more K frames. They seem just right to me.
 
I just picked up a model 64 stainless with the 4 inch HB. Perfect mate to my model 10.
I do think I will begin a search for more K frames. They seem just right to me.

Try and find one with adjustable sights. The magnum chamberings are nice, but adjustable sights are more desirable for a range gun for me. If you can get both though, go for it!

Either a M15 or M67 for a 38 with target sights or a M19 or M66 for a 357 with target sights.

The 6" barrels typically get a shilouette style front sight which is even better.
 
Either a M15 or M67 for a 38 with target sights or a M19 or M66 for a 357 with target sights.

There is something special about shooting 38 Special in a gun chambered for 38 Special.

Besides the Model 15, don't forget the Model 14. Generally, Model 15's are 4" barreled 38 Special guns and the Model 14's are 6" and 8-3/8"38 Special guns. But as the Model series were ending in the 1980s and 1990s, things got blurred a bit. Model 14's, Model 15's, Model 19's, Model 66's, and Model 67's are adjustable sight versions of the 38 caliber K frame guns (38 Special and 357 Magnum).

There are some 2" Model 15's out there that are reasonably priced and not too difficult to find.

Model 67's are stainless versions of Model 15's. Mine is a 4" barreled version. I forget if other barrel lengths are available in the Model 67 series guns.

As a note, the original versions of the Model 19 have a design flaw in that they do not handle full power 357 Magnum loads well over a long time. The forcing cone on the barrel cracks. Not an issue if you shoot full power 357 Magnum loads only once in a while. S&W has fixed this design flaw with current manufactured Model 19 Classic series guns.

My 1980 vintage Model 19 that I purchased new back in the day has had its barrel replaced as a result of shooting a steady diet of 158 grain full power 357 Magnum loads. It gets treated with more care these days.
 
@cfullgraf, all good points. With regards to older M19's eating their forcing cones, ive managed to squirrel away a spare barrel among other parts.

That is planning ahead. These days, I wish I had planned ahead and gotten a M19 barrel to squirrel away.

For me, I do not shoot full power loads much these days so not really an issue. If I want wrist snapping recoil, I'll drag out the 460 S&W Magnum.

I thoroughly enjoy shooting S&W K-frame guns these days but I do not need to shoot full power loads in them these days. I load a nice mid-level 357 Magnum load in 357 magnum cases (900-1000 fps with 158 gran SWC bullets) for my 357 magnum revolvers but I more than likely to shoot target level wadcutters in my 38 Special K-frames. That is just me.

I'm not trying to dictate what folks should shoot in the revolvers. I just would like folks be knowledgable about what they are shooting. I got lucky with my Model 19 and at the time, 1980 time frame, S&W had parts to repair my gun and on their dime. It is not always the case these days.
 
Gotta check older .357 K-frames for cracked forcing cones, the M19-2 and -3 are particularly suseptible if they were shot with large amounts of hot, light bullets.
.

Delete the "light bullets" comments. Add "any 357 Magnum load"

The early M19 through the last engineering change are subject to failure of the forcing cone with a steady diet of 357 Magnum loads. Just ask my Model 19 which had it's barrel replace around 1982. I was shooting IHMSA revolver competition with the gun at the time.
 
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You need a Model 27. They are insanely accurate, and there are some nice touches (recessed charge holes) that the newer models don't have.

I own a pair of 686-6s, so I have no issues with the newer ones, but it is hard to beat older S&Ws.

27-2.jpg
 
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I don't know of any to avoid, but I found one yesterday that I think a lot of people look at as sort of a "holy grail" gun. There are always a lot of Ohhhhhhsss and awwwwwws most anytime one shows up, so you might want to keep them in mind.

(How's that for a way to work in a shameless show off opportunity?)

Model 13-4, 357, with a 3" barrel, and a round butt.

Model13-4r_zpsdqcru7xt.jpg

Model13-4l_zpszren1izn.jpg

The light makes it look a lot more worn than it really is. It's off in the layaway bin so they're the best I could get for now.
 
Getting older I find it appealing to lighten my load. What, no love for Sc frames and or Ti cylinders?
 
Purchased a model 36 no dash today. It has a 3 inch barrel and shows very little wear. Could not pass it up.
I was actually looking at a 637-1 air weight but figured the 36 with 3 inch barrel would be harder to find in the future.
 
Purchased a model 36 no dash today. It has a 3 inch barrel and shows very little wear. Could not pass it up.
I was actually looking at a 637-1 air weight but figured the 36 with 3 inch barrel would be harder to find in the future.
Not a bad choice. If I ever run across one at a fair price, it will come home with me.
 
Very nice!
The model 60 is a classic in it''s 38 form imho.
Just love that gun.
I am partial to the SS models.
Some here will castigate me for this view.
:)

I stand with you against the unwashed hoards!

But in all seriousness, I greatly prefer SS for working guns i.e. for carry or hunting.

My range toys which will only see inclimate weather while cased going to or from my car are in large part blued. I do prefer the look of classic blued steel.

A M60 is a great carry weapon in large part due to the resilience of its materials.
 
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