38spl can’t get it right!!

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Axis II

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No matter how much I try by switching bullets and powder I can get my S&W 642 to shoot reloads! All over the place with be86 and HP38. Bullet is extreme 125gr FP. I ran some through another full size 38spl and same crap groups. Any recommendations?
 
Do your Xtreme bullets drop thru your Cylinders ?
I found them to be sized like FMJ bullets and drop thru cylinders.

I believe they recommend lead bullet reloading data over at Xtreme. This may not work in your gun. Since the bullets are sized smaller @ 0.357 this is less than lead ones @ 0.358+. So you may need to look for load data for a 125 grain FMJ and 125 Lead and see what will work in between the two. They may well want more powder.

Look into Powder Coated bullets when you run out of Xtreme bullets.
 
I had the same problem with my Ruger SBH in 44 mag. Finally I said "screw it" bought a 357 Smith. Wouldnt ya know it but it couldn't shoot worth a nit either. Turned out I was just not good at shooting revolvers. Spent a lot of winter hours in the basement just dry firing at half inch dots on the wall. Now my handloads hold 3 inches or less at 25 yards and I can free hand the 8 inch at fifty, single action anyway.

Have you tried shooting them from a stable rest in single action?
 
I have run the 125gr Xtreme plated bullets for years in a variety of S&W revolvers. Have had good luck with 3.5- 3.6gr of Titegroup. Those hit a bit low in my fixed sight revolvers, but only maybe an inch at 50ft. I also load some Xtreme 158gr Semi Wadcutters with the same charge (3.5gr of Titegroup) and get decent groups and they hit my point of aim with my 638 and 64
 
Turned out I was just not good at shooting revolvers.
+1 and in my experience, snubbies are very difficult, if not the most difficult revolver to shoot well. They have short barrels, are very light, and have compact grips. Takes lots of practice to get the hang of them.

This snubbie
3c4ymWs.jpg

is just as inherently accurate as this Police Positive

dRasAhw.jpg

But that extra 2" of barrel on the Police Positive probably tightens the groups up 25% or more. I can regularly hit my 12" gong target at 50 yards with the Police Positive, offhand, but I really struggle with the Detective Special.

I found that all my Airweights were adjusted to shoot to point of impact at 25 yards with 125 grain bullets. Older snubbies universally shot to point of aim with 158 grain bullets, but as per conversation with S&W, S&W adjusted the sights of new production revolvers for 125 grain bullets because these rounds are currently the most popular weights for self defense.

All of my chronograph testing, which the target is at 25 yards, was conducted with a M637 or M638, because, I can thumb cock the things. My M642, is DAO only and I am a terrible double action shooter. I might have hit my chronograph!

I have not included any Green Dot data, but that powder performed very well in the 38 Special.

I decided that 4.0 grains Bullseye with a 125 LRN was accurate, shot to point of aim, and was good enough for practice loads.

Code:
S&W M637-2  2" barrel 

125 Valiant BBRNFP 4.0 grs Bullseye Mixed cases WSP
9-Apr-06 T = 59 °F    

Ave Vel = 760.4
Std Dev = 27.33
ES = 82.1
High  = 798.9
Low  = 716.8
N = 19


More or less Point of aim ,Surprising recoil    
  
125 Valiant BBRNFP 4.5 grs Bullseye Mixed cases WSP
9-Apr-06 T = 64 °F  

Ave Vel = 827.9
Std Dev = 23.21
ES = 92.27
High  = 879.4
Low  = 787.1
N = 20

Maybe a little low, Windage centered

nQ5kk1P.jpg


Code:
S&W M638-3 Airweight Bodyguard   

148 LWC Valiant 2.7 grs Bullseye thrown Mixed Brass WSP
18-Mar-07 T = 52 °F  

   
Ave Vel = 611.6 
Std Dev = 22.04    
ES = 75.92    
High  = 648.1    
Low  = 572.2  
N = 25  

little high    

158 LSWC 3.5 grs Bullseye Mixed brass WSP  
18-Mar-07 T = 52 °F  

Ave Vel = 670.7 
Std Dev = 17.52    
ES = 65.4    
High  = 697.5    
Low  = 632.1  
N = 12  
4-6" High, accurate    

 
158 JHP 3.5 grs Bullseye Mixed brass WSP
18-Mar-07 T = 52 °F    

Ave Vel = 611.1 
Std Dev = 9.64    
ES = 28.05    
High  = 626.3    
Low  = 598.3  
N = 9  


4"-6" High @ 25 yards, accurate

18EWF3N.jpg

 
I had the same problem with my Ruger SBH in 44 mag. Finally I said "screw it" bought a 357 Smith. Wouldnt ya know it but it couldn't shoot worth a nit either. Turned out I was just not good at shooting revolvers. Spent a lot of winter hours in the basement just dry firing at half inch dots on the wall. Now my handloads hold 3 inches or less at 25 yards and I can free hand the 8 inch at fifty, single action anyway.

Have you tried shooting them from a stable rest in single action?
I can shoot k frames with factory ammo better than I do my semi auto. It’s hammerless so can’t shoot single action. I had someone else shoot it last night and it was wild.
 
The bullets are listed at .357" diameter. The 125 gr has a short bearing surface. . I would change to .358" diameter & 158gr swc.
M60M337PD001.JPG.jpg

Firing single action does help accuracy. Your double action only makes it harder to shoot, but hand loads should match factory ammo, as you said.
 
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A short barreled revolver can shoot well with patience and good trigger discipline. This 686 is heavier than the OP's 642 and easier to shoot well.

Berrys 148 Gr HBWC & 3.5 Grs of Competition (WST also works). Very light play around load. Use .38 or .357 brass, this was .357 brass.
686 & Load # 181 Pic 1.JPG
 
I would start by finding something it shoots well then try and copy it with your reloads.

What else do you have to try?

JHP stuff is generally a good choice.
 
Yes I use a taper crimp.
I bought 6K of these bullets back during the xtreme clearance sale madness. I also have 6K of their 38-125HP. I got good results with the HP version immediately but it took me forever to get the FP ones shooting right.

I find the longer HP bullet works with a taper crimp but I have to roll crimp the 125FP to prevent crimp jump in light guns like your 642. Apparently the shorter bullet length of the FP reduces the overlap between the bullet and the case to the degree that a taper crimp doesn't cut it. Do you have a chrono? Have you checked these loads in this gun? In my 16oz gun the velocities decrease with each shot as the bullets move progressively out of the case when using a taper crimp.

I have also tried some powders in this application. Titegroup is the best, AA#2 second (I am actually using Shooter's World Clean Shot, which does appear to be interchangeable in 38), but HP38 and BE86 also work well with a roll crimp. Even Alliant Sport Pistol works with enough crimp. With the case capacity and low operating pressure of 38special, ignitability becomes an issue with plated bullets, especially short ones. That's why all the suggestions for plain lead or coated bullets - they will seal up to the bore much better, creating more consistent ignition and pressure/velocity generation.

You've not said whether you are loading to +P or not, but doing so will also help. Given the case capacity ignition will be more reliable the more powder you use due to better case fill. Titegroup is hard to beat, but if you roll crimp into the cannelure as aggressively as you can without causing plating failure I think all your stuff will snap around.

Here's my chrono data from the last time I flogged this projectile.

This is 5.0gr. of Sport Pistol (no plated load data, probably not +P)
Description: 38 XT125FP SP 5.0
Average: 818.8 FPS
SD: 27.6 FPS
Min: 774 FPS
Max: 863 FPS
Spread: 89 FPS

5.2gr. HP38 (+P)
Description: 38 XT125FP HP38 5.2
Average: 821.5 FPS
SD: 31.4 FPS
Min: 777 FPS
Max: 881 FPS
Spread: 104 FPS

4.6gr. of Clean Shot
Description: 38 125fp CS 4.6
Average: 870.7 FPS
SD: 16.5 FPS
Min: 846 FPS
Max: 892 FPS
Spread: 46 FPS

5.0gr of Clean Shot (+P)
Description: 38 125fp CS 5.0
Average: 901.6 FPS
SD: 12.0 FPS
Min: 884 FPS
Max: 921 FPS
Spread: 37 FPS
Shot/sec: 0.1
True MV: 902 FPS

4.6gr. of Titegroup
Average: 880.4 FPS
SD: 14.7 FPS
Min: 858 FPS
Max: 902 FPS
Spread: 44 FPS

5.0gr. of Titegroup (+P)
Description: 38 125fp TG 5.0
Average: 936.8 FPS
SD: 8.6 FPS
Min: 923 FPS
Max: 953 FPS
Spread: 30 FPS

5.4gr of BE86
Description: 38 125fp BE86 5.4
Average: 859.5 FPS
SD: 17.7 FPS
Min: 837 FPS
Max: 890 FPS
Spread: 53 FPS

These results were collected shooting somewhat downward into the ground, so they are essentially a worst-case 'power away' scenario that highlights the ignition concerns with this projectile. I was using a 3" 38 special LCRx. You can see from the SD the edge Titegroup has in ignitability. But the Clean Shot, BE86 and even HP38 loads still shoot just fine in normal use, with the 5.2gr. HP38 load proving rather accurate. But all of these should be good enough for snubby use if your bullet pull is high enough.
 
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Try a different bullet. Better yet, try several different bullets. A good quality JHP would be a place to start.

Some guns are finicky about what they like.

Some plated bullets shoot well, other don't.
 
Shoots decent for a snub nose. I can put 5 in 6” shoot n c at say 20ft. Can’t even hit it with reloads.

Where are the misses going? high, low, left, right? Are all the misses in the same region? Is it just a point of impact difference instead of a horrible accuracy problem?
 
I'm with Walkalong, starting with 148gr DEWC from Berry, MBC, or ACME will kill 2 birds with one stone. Since those bullets get seated and roll crimped flush with the case mouth, powder position and crimp issues are eliminated from the problem solving matrix.

I'd be happy to send you a handful for your trials, if desired.
 
I'm with Walkalong, starting with 148gr DEWC from Berry, MBC, or ACME will kill 2 birds with one stone. Since those bullets get seated and roll crimped flush with the case mouth, powder position and crimp issues are eliminated from the problem solving matrix.
There's no doubt going to lead bullets and wadcutters makes great results easy, for the reasons you've listed. But it is instructive to consider how well most factory 38 jacketed and even plated ammunition works. Usually the best plinking bullet is the one you already have, and when that's an xtreme 38-125FP you've got to maximize ignitability and bullet pull to get good results.

Even so I've yet to find a propellant that fully equals the velocity of even some pretty ordinary factory 38 +P loads in plated reloads, with Titegroup coming the closest in addition having the best ignition characteristics - despite the worst case fill. I've tried the other powders looking for better case fill and cooling burning, but the case fill of the alternatives hasn't proven an advantage and even my +P load of HP38 puts a sheet of flame out the barrel gap that makes me think one probably should consider forcing cone life when using 125gr. plated bullets.
 
Here's my chrono data from the last time I flogged this projectile.
Forgot to mention this was all using CCI 500 primers and OAL of 1.425". Pretty aggressive roll crimp for a plated bullet, but recovered slugs show no plating failure.
 
Ray15, thanks for your comments, but I was suggesting the DEWC as a starting point, not as an end solution. A place to see if the OP could even achieve a group. I believe the answer lies somewhere along a line between ability and the Xtreme plated, which I consider to be a less than optimal bullet.

I own the same pistol as the OP, and you are correct. It is capable of unbelievable accuracy at distance with the factory Speer Gold Dots carried in it.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking his test with factory ammo is showing the reloads aren't preforming. I agree 38-125FP is a difficult bullet in this application.

It's surprising how much better their HP design works. I bought 6K of 38-125HP, liked them and wanted more. All they had left at that point was the 38-125FP, and I don't like it nearly as well. After beating both to death I get good results, but it's clear to me that most any lead or coated bullets would be easier to optimize and allow lighter loads than either in this application.
 
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