Cross Draw?

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I do think crossdraw is underrated and would like to experiment with it sometime... but I have yet to try it... unless you count chest carry which I do all the time and love it; by far the fastest, most accessible and secure carry option available if concealment is of zero concern. ;)

Get yourself a Simply Rugged holster. Many models allow both strong side and cross draw. If you find you don't like cross you still have a very good holster.
 
I'm a fan of cross draw and feel very comfortable doing it. I like the earlier cross draw revolver holsters that are not made like the ones today. Fast and easy access to the gun with either hand.

Ever stand at a urinal at Wal Mart with a strong side holster in the 3:00 or 4:00 position? Easy for low-lifes to grab your firearm and take it away. Cross draw it probably ain't going to happen.

This is an older Bucheimer cross-draw holster. Carries my 2.5" 44 spl Bulldog just fine.
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This is an older one also made by Bucheimer. Works great with D-frame Colt, J-frame S&W, and Charter Arms Undercover.
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Simply Rugged carries N-frame S&W's fairly comfortably cross-draw.
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Another Simply Rugged holster carries my Glock 23 & 19 comfortably cross draw or strong side.
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NEVER use the Walmart urinal. If you need to go then hold it til home. Not because of any criminal element but the restrooms there are ungodly, not even fit for a dog.
 
Back in the days when I did a lot of handgun hunting, I carried a 6” N Frame. I discovered the best way to carry a revolver that size was in a shoulder rig or a crossdraw holster, especially in a vehicle.

I used a Bianchi Cyclone 111 holster in the crossdraw position. That worked very well for me and was quite comfortable.
 
Only time I have ever use cross draw is when I dual carry on a belly band holster. Cross draw is very useful (to me) for carrying in a vehicle or carrying a BUG close to the primary firearm. As main carry, not for me.
 
When I was a younger man I had that luxury. Now days, when my bladder tells me it needs to be emptied, it means now
I used to be a team lead at a Home Depot. Once we had a major plumbing issue in the men's restroom I stood outside to make sure no one could go in. We had a post middle-age gentleman come by (late 50s?)and say he wanted to use the restroom, I apologized and said I'm sorry but the men's room is closed. He asked for the ladies room, I said sir I'm sorry but that would be highly inappropriate (there were females in there at the time.) He said I'm going to the restroom even if I have to go through you. I said you may try sir. He a abruptly left and peed in the plants in the garden center... Lucky Derby, was that you?
 
I have a couple of cross draw holsters, one for a Colt Detective Special, and a Kramer for a S&W 3913 LS. Not my favorite way to carry, but I guess it works ok........
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I use a couple shoulder holsters, theyre cross draw for obvious reasons. I think you're talking belt holster though. My take on it is that i do feel like a larger gun conceals more easily mainly by not having the butt poking out when you bend over, instead it jabs you in the guts. To me crossdraw is like offside appendix carry, unless you get a holster with extreme cant.it is a good method if you drive a lot or are seated the majority of the time.
I find it tough to conceal much strongside owb. Or you could get an NAA and try under hat carry, that conceals the best i think.

You need to get the kind of guns they use in movies ... no reloads necessary ...

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In the past, I have attended three classes at Chapman academy. Was told every time that, “we do not teach cross draw”. They explained that there was to much of a chance you would sweep the area with the muzzle of your gun.
I would differ from this only in a vehicle. They considered shoulder carry the same as cross draw.
 
Different draws for different folks.

Yeah, but it’s something to contemplate. When I draw from a strong-side holster, my feet are about shoulder-width apart with my left foot about a half step in front of my right.

I pull almost vertically until the muzzle clears leather (about 6, maybe 8 inches, but my elbow travels over a foot), at which time I rotate the gun about 90 degrees and begin pushing out and up to the target. My support hand, which was palm against my belly, comes in from the side and (if I did everything right) clasps my strong hand and continues up to my eye-level.

From cross-draw, my body is almost completely sideways towards the target, with my left foot a full step in front of my right. My support hand is again on my belly, but I'm drawing back and up at about a 45 degree angle. The gun again moves about 6-8 inches, but now my elbow only travels about the same 8 inches, as it didn't have to scissor much at all to create that movement. Once my muzzle clears leather, I only need to rotate the muzzle about 45 degrees before I begin pushing up and out.

So from a purely physical point-of-view, cross-draw should be faster, as I'm simply moving the gun and my arm through less space, as well as rotating it through fewer degrees of arc.

YMMV of course. At any rate, it appears I can draw just as fast if not faster from cross-draw as I can from strong-side. It just takes some practice. Others results may not be the same, I suppose.
 
In the past, I have attended three classes at Chapman academy. Was told every time that, “we do not teach cross draw”. They explained that there was to much of a chance you would sweep the area with the muzzle of your gun.
I would differ from this only in a vehicle. They considered shoulder carry the same as cross draw.

"Experts" often don't teach things they don't know anything about. I guess that is a good thing. But to pass judgement on something they don't teach or understand shows equal parts of ego and stupidity. Adherence to any doctrine for every system can prevent one from using what works best in a given situation.
 
Yeah, but it’s something to contemplate. When I draw from a strong-side holster, my feet are about shoulder-width apart with my left foot about a half step in front of my right.

I pull almost vertically until the muzzle clears leather (about 6, maybe 8 inches, but my elbow travels over a foot), at which time I rotate the gun about 90 degrees and begin pushing out and up to the target. My support hand, which was palm against my belly, comes in from the side and (if I did everything right) clasps my strong hand and continues up to my eye-level.

From cross-draw, my body is almost completely sideways towards the target, with my left foot a full step in front of my right. My support hand is again on my belly, but I'm drawing back and up at about a 45 degree angle. The gun again moves about 6-8 inches, but now my elbow only travels about the same 8 inches, as it didn't have to scissor much at all to create that movement. Once my muzzle clears leather, I only need to rotate the muzzle about 45 degrees before I begin pushing up and out.

So from a purely physical point-of-view, cross-draw should be faster, as I'm simply moving the gun and my arm through less space, as well as rotating it through fewer degrees of arc.

YMMV of course. At any rate, it appears I can draw just as fast if not faster from cross-draw as I can from strong-side. It just takes some practice. Others results may not be the same, I suppose.

Personally I think one of the best reasons for using cross is the fact that your body is bladed presenting a much smaller area to your adversary. I've never seen any "average" measurement, but I'd guess you present about one half the area facing your adversary. I'll take anything that makes me smaller and harder to hit.
 
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