Dan Wesson 15-2 357

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stonebuster

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I spotted a Dan Wesson 15-2 6" ribbed barrel(partial lug) 357 for $500 asking price. Should be 1981.Got an ugly Pachmayr grip and has had some Wolff springs put in. My biggest concern is a K frame that has seen a lot of 357s may be shot loose or cracked the forcing cone or stretched the frame. If the cylinder locks up tight, B/C gap and end shake measures up, no excessive forcing cone wear(or cracks), check hammer back push off test, and timing is checked visually in every cylinder it may be worth it. Sounds too cheap to be in good shape?
 
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I don't think the asking price is too cheap at all, especially with having crappy Pachmayr grips and all. I'm also not sure why you're comparing it to a "K" frame gun (S&W), since this is an entirely different gun. I've had several DW revolvers in the past (and still have a Model 715), and have never experienced the problems you're concerned with, so if it floats your boat and passes your visual tests then why not go for it? Also, does it come with the feeler gauge and barrel take-down tool?

Good luck......
 
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Dan Wessons are the anvils of the revolver world, $500 is fair unless it's been abused. Barrel sets are available for the .357 quite often on eBay and GB, so it's easy enough to find something else. Wood grips are available from LB Custom Grips.
 
I don't think the asking price is too cheap at all, especially with having crappy Pachmayr grips and all. I'm also not sure why you're comparing it to a "K" frame gun (S&W), since this is an entirely different gun. I've had several DW revolvers in the past (and still have a Model 715), and have never experienced the problems you're concerned with, so if it floats your boat and passes your visual tests then why not go for it? Also, does it come with the feeler gauge and barrel take-down tool?

Good luck......
Thanks for correcting me about the frame. I thought the DW model 15 was built on the same medium frame as the Smith model 15. Researching, I just read the DW model 15 is larger framed closer to L frame and as you said an entirely different gun. No tools included but I have a feeler gauge I can check it with. New pictures I asked for show some freckles and heavy turn line but I may take a 20 mile ride and look anyway.
 
I’d think 500 for a single barrel is a bit much. Around my area 525 gets you one with a 4 and 6 inch barrel. If you are exploring the option of more barrels EWK arms makes shrouds and barrels.
 
I think it's a fair deal. I paid $450 for a 15-2 Monson Mass DW. It did not have the feeler gauge or barrel tool, and has a blemish, but overall it's in great shape. It's a heck of a shooter and much more accurate than I am.
You can see the blemish in the pic below. Looks to me like holster wear. It's the only blem on the gun except for the grips which look a little rough.

20190317_162714.jpg 20190815_101436.jpg
 
I just read the posts that went up while I was editing my last post. On second thought, without the original grips, freckled and turn lines, I'd say it's over priced.

My LGS has a DW 15-2 Monson Mass pistol pack with all 3 (or 4?) barrels, presentation box, tools, etc., and the gun looks perfect. However, the price is $1800 :eek:
 
Holy cow that makes me happy. I got the Dan Wesson pistol pack I got for 800. It had a turn ring and later found out the forcing cones weren’t cut. But I had a lathe so that issue resolved quick.

It came in it’s original briefcase with 4 barrels(2, 4 ,6 ,8in) 3 different color sight ramps for each barrel (Red, yellow, white) 2 different wood grips and the wrench and the feeler Gauge. I’ll put pics if I get a chance.
 
I just read the posts that went up while I was editing my last post. On second thought, without the original grips, freckled and turn lines, I'd say it's over priced.

My LGS has a DW 15-2 Monson Mass pistol pack with all 3 (or 4?) barrels, presentation box, tools, etc., and the gun looks perfect. However, the price is $1800 :eek:
I think you're probably right but I'm going to have to take a look in person. The pics were taken with his cell phone and he says what I thought was rust freckles was dust. What I thought was blue loss on the cylinder and frame was a reflection. Dan Wesson owner's website member's registry list dates this gun as 1981. I'd about written it off until I just read his email. Nothing to lose by looking.
 
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I have two Monson Mass. DW-15”s: one came as part of the 2-4-6-8” Vent-Heavy shroud pistol pac with all the goodies described in the earlier post and one I bought as a frame and added a 3” VH EWK barrel/shroud and Hogue wooden grips. Both guns are in great shape, and I do what I can to keep them like that.

I love DW guns: stout, versatile and more accurate than I am.

$500 isn’t the worst I’ve seen, but I’d offer $425 right now to the proprietor and see what happens. You may just get it for something close to that.

Now, if I could just get a DW .357 Max Super Mag or a .22 Magnum DW to appear in my stocking on Christmas...;)

Stay safe.
 
EWK barrels are available separately and fit factory shrouds as well. They have one definite advantage over a factory barrel. The EWK barrels are 1:12 twist; great for shooting both heavy bullets and target level .38 Specials. Factory twist is 1:16.
 
EWK barrels are available separately and fit factory shrouds as well. They have one definite advantage over a factory barrel. The EWK barrels are 1:12 twist; great for shooting both heavy bullets and target level .38 Specials. Factory twist is 1:16.
This gun I'm looking at was manufactured in 1981 when the company went through ownership changes after Dan Wesson's death in 1978. Were there any issues with revolvers produced during this time period caused by this transition to new ownership?
 
No. The problems people talk about are generally limited to the Palmer and Norwich (not CZ) models and have to do more with fit and finish than actual functioning of the gun. Your revolver was made in Monson.
 
Here is my 15-2, also Monson made. It came with the 8 inch barrel and I bought the 4 inch heavy shroud barrel and barrel tool from EWK a few years ago. The wood target grips are badly cracked so I put Hogue Monogrips on it. Maybe not the most attractive but they sure fit my hand well. I gave $350 for this one but it was in pretty bad shape with light rusting and some shallow pitting. CLP and elbow grease brought as much of the original finish as I could get. Excellent shooter. Double action trigger is OK at best but single action trigger is excellent. IMG_1099.JPG
 
I went to look at the gun today cash in hand. It looked great, no worn bluing, no plum color blue anywhere, the forcing cone showed no wear and no flame cutting. The balance the gun is fantastic and you'd never think it was nearly 40 years old by looking. The cylinder locked up tight and the locking lug was barely showing any wear at all. Single action was excellent.. I asked him to take the rubber grip off and it showed no rust underneath or frame wear. He offered to take off the side plate. No rust and no signs of problems except very oily and looked like someone had used some light grease inside. Also the hammer had an arc rubbed in it on the left side deep enough to easily feel with you finger nail. Then I tried DA and something was wrong. The trigger would go back some and hit a wall and have to be forced by more pressure to get past it if you were pulling the trigger DA slowly. If you pulled the trigger more quickly it wasn't as noticeable. It was binding. I checked the B/C gap and pretty much wasn't any as it took some effort to get a .002 gauge in. I looked at the face of the cylinder and you could see marks where it had been binding on barrel. The cylinder didn't have excessive build up on it. He had no barrel tool so we couldn't reset the gap. Also he had put a Wolff "competition" trigger return spring in and several times the trigger stuck back and wouldn't return without help. I suggested he put the stock trigger return spring back in and order a barrel tool so we could unscrew the barrel some to get .006 B/C gap and see if that was the problem with DA. This is his first revolver so I offered to help him with the barrel adjustment when the tool comes in. He honestly didn't realize there was a problem as he only shot it SA. We both left disappointed. After we adjust the BC gap, I'll try it and make a decision. Hopefully the barrel will unscrew without a major problem after who knows how many years.
 
Take a stone with you so you can touch up any burrs caused by the rubbing of the barrel against the cylinder to get an accurate b/c gap measurement.
 
Take a stone with you so you can touch up any burrs caused by the rubbing of the barrel against the cylinder to get an accurate b/c gap measurement.
No burrs yet. Not sure if the trigger problem is definitely related to the B/C gap until we reset the gap.
 
i would try it to buy it cheaper before its "fixed" ... I dont think it is un fixable by any means...
I completely agree it's probably an easy fix. Funny thing is a couple other guys looked at the gun, never checked B/C gap and didn't notice the trigger catching. They tried to low ball at $300. I told him buy the barrel tool and give me the gun and tool with it. Seller is a young family man temporarily out of work and has a new gun on the way and wants to free up some money by selling this 15-2. I'm trying to barter the price down a couple hundred for something else he's interested in. I don't think I'm likely to find another in this condition for what he's asking. I plan to pick it up Thursday.
 
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Stonebuster, I'm not sure how the Pachmeyer grips attach but the Hogue I show on mine (post #16) have a screw that holds them on and if it is too tight it will bind up the trigger. I just backed it out enough to quit binding and the grips are still fixed to the firearm with no wobble. Just something to check.
 
Thanks Middletown, I've read that before and will try backing it out. The Pachs attach with the screw through bottom like the Hogues. It's got a set screw on the back of the trigger(over travel adjustment?) that I can try backing out a tad to see if it helps the reset. It has been over lubricated with oil and a light grease which may be part of the problem. My skills are limited so I don't want to start taking things apart if I don't have to.
 
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