Dan Wesson 15-2 problem

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Huntolive

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I just shot a new to me 15-2 w 357
After 3rd shot the revolver refused to cock into single action and I had to open up the cylinder and manually rotate it and then close it again to get it to start cycling.

What could cause this?
I have three other Dan Wesson either 15 - 2 or 7:15 and I've never had this problem.

Of important note also the gun spat back grit or gunpowder blast at me almost every shot right in the face.

I'm guessing it could be the spacing between the cylinder and the barrel is not set right and is a hair too tight.
But having never fired this gun before I'm really not sure and I never change the barrels on it has the barrel that came on it.
Also the accuracy is terrible which is not at all my experience with other Dan Wesson's
 
It could be that the gap is set too closely. I owned a 15-2V for over 30 years, and it was flawless. I bought it from a friend. Had no intention of getting rid of it, buthe asked about it a couple years ago, and I sold it back to him. Also check for wear on the rear of the cylinder where the pawl makes contact. Once thst is done, if you continue to have the same problem, then it is time for a visit to a good gunsmith.
 
If it's spitting sounds like the timing may be out. Check the cylinder gap, then the end shake and if that checks out inspect the hand for wear and the crane for damage. I'm no gunsmith (by any stretch) but something sounds wrong.
 
I'd try setting b/c gap for .006 to eliminate that as the possible problem. Loosen or remove the grip screw and try cocking. Grip screw protruding too far can interfere with the mainspring. You probably know this since you own four DW revolvers. You might try posting on DW owners website.BTW, I also own a 15-2 V6 357 and they're very simple to disassemble. There's a great "how to" tutorial on the DW site. You may be surprised how easy it is compared to other revolvers. If I can do it, you can.
 
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Failure to cock can be that the grip screw is screwed too far into the frame preventing the hammer from going all the way back. It’s a pretty common problem. Add a couple washers or back the screw out a couple turns
 
Never had the issue on my 15-2 V 6" but have always been warned about the mainspring infringement issue. Seems a likely place to start.
 
Failure to cock can be that the grip screw is screwed too far into the frame preventing the hammer from going all the way back. It’s a pretty common problem. Add a couple washers or back the screw out a couple turns
I had that on my first DW when I changed grips. If I recall, the hammer-strut passes through a threaded boss and can then bottom out early on too long a screw.

Also - strange, the notion of gasses and material moving straight to the rear and your face.

I can't quite visualize gasses following the usual escape channels to end up presenting to the firer's face.


Todd.
 
Thanks
I reset the proper barrel cylinder Gap
With the Dan Wesson ranch and feeler gauge
Whoever had it before I just tightened it pretty much all the way down
I think they did that because the shroud could wiggle if you didn't which is one thing that does bother me about Dan Wesson that the shroud can be slightly loose if the barrel is not screwed in excessively tightly.
 
You most likely know this already but the proper way to re-tighten the barrel after setting the gap is with the gauge inserted in the b/c gap. You're only supposed to snug the barrel but down, not overtighten. Glad you got it fixed. When I bought my 15-2V6 last year the barrel was making contact with the cylinder. Seller had no clue about it and no wrench. I got a wrench from EWK and a extra 4" barrel from CZ. It's a nice feature of DWs to be able to set the gap or change barrels.
 
You most likely know this already but the proper way to re-tighten the barrel after setting the gap is with the gauge inserted in the b/c gap. You're only supposed to snug the barrel but down, not overtighten. Glad you got it fixed. When I bought my 15-2V6 last year the barrel was making contact with the cylinder. Seller had no clue about it and no wrench. I got a wrench from EWK and a extra 4" barrel from CZ. It's a nice feature of DWs to be able to set the gap or change barrels.
I didn't know CZ was selling individual barrels. Sure wish they'd expand their line to sell blued pistols and barrels.

Todd.
 
One thing to consider is a lot of folks don't change the barrels much. Very cool to be able do but I've got four other 4" 357s and three 38 spl 4 inchers. Another case of want over ruling need. The ability to replace a barrel/shroud so easily if you really "need" to, reset the b/c gap or give it a thorough cleaning is a beautiful thing. They also are so incredibly mechanically simple and easy to completely disassemble. Oh, and very accurate.
 
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I’d like some V shrouds for my blued 15-2’s. My 2,3,4,6,8 inch barrels are all the VH styles.

It sounds like the previous owner wasn’t too savvy on the quirks of the DW barrel system. Once you get them all down, the DW is one really cool revolver.

Good luck with your issues, I hope you find out the cause and let us know the results :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
I wonder if the timing is off and the barrel and cylinder aren't properly aligned. As far as the shroud/barrel, there are usually quite a few on eBay but usually expensive.
 
Thanks
I reset the proper barrel cylinder Gap
With the Dan Wesson ranch and feeler gauge
Whoever had it before I just tightened it pretty much all the way down
I think they did that because the shroud could wiggle if you didn't which is one thing that does bother me about Dan Wesson that the shroud can be slightly loose if the barrel is not screwed in excessively tightly.

I don't know how it would do that, unless the pin that keeps the shroud from being able to be turned is messed up or gone. I've never had a barrel move at all if the nut is even just snugged down weakly. People do amazingly crazy things to the barrel/shrouds, including, just on the ones I've bought used, expoying the nut onto the barrel, and the common red loctiting the nut too. I had one gun, back in the mid '80's where the clown owner had red loctited both ends of the barrel. The frame side was easy to get loose, I just shot it over and over until it got really hot and out it came, but the muzzle needed to be heated up with a torch and even then, it was so tight that the nut was trashed. I had to get a new nut, but other than that barrel nonsense, the gun was in great shape. So far, I haven't seen one tack welded, but I've heard it has been done!
 
I've heard some red locktite nightmare stories with DWs. The one place I did find it handy was when the cylinder stop in the side plate popped out. Red locktite has worked well for that but not anything you ever may need to remove. Used blue LT on the ejector rod which keeps it from unscrewing. I wonder if the OP's barrel threads on the muzzle end are marred/rusted and not allowing the nut to tighten enough to secure the shroud.
 
Just as a note, EWK barrel tubes are available separately and are 1:12 twist. Factory is 1:16. Something to consider if you are shooting heavy bullet or target wadcutter loads.
 
I had the same problem with a Dan Wesson I brought new back in 1976 or so. After 40+ years the lub had hardened and prevented things from advancing properly. I didn't want to bung up screw slots so I had it professionally cleaned inside and relubed. That solved the problem. I had the same problem with a smith K22, but it freed up with use.
 
Yeah, I've had a couple of guns I've bought online show up with either the concrete like lube making things difficult, or just full of unburned powder. One gun crunched when DA fired very loudly. The powder had mixed with the lube and it kind of looked like mashed potatoes with big pepper flakes in it. I ended up taking that gun totally apart and cleaning everything in my ultrasonic cleaner. I still have that gun, a very nice looking 15-2 with a 4" VH barrel.
 
Yeah, I've had a couple of guns I've bought online show up with either the concrete like lube making things difficult, or just full of unburned powder. One gun crunched when DA fired very loudly. The powder had mixed with the lube and it kind of looked like mashed potatoes with big pepper flakes in it. I ended up taking that gun totally apart and cleaning everything in my ultrasonic cleaner. I still have that gun, a very nice looking 15-2 with a 4" VH barrel.
That's part of the beauty of the DW revolvers. You can completely take them apart and put them back together so easily in minutes. It's the only revolver out of 10 I've had the courage to completely disassemble.
 
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