Cap and ball concealed carry?

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They are getting more and more restrictive here on our side of the Atlantic. Even if one has licence for self-defense weapon you are allowed to own only 200 rounds for all your weapons all-together. Just about year and a half ago they tried to change the law so that one could own only one revolver or pistol for self defense. And we do have an occasion in our history when our neighbor imposed a treaty upon us that involved taking away all registered weapons from civilians and members of voluntary defense organisation. All weapons got collected just before war. So an idea of a weapon that is legal to own, that is not on any paper, and that for i can have as much material to shoot with, as i can spend money on, is kind of tempting. Ok - it's illegal to buy or own gunpowder unless one has a weapons licence, and it's illegal to make ones own, but they can't forbid to know how it's done. I probably don't need it ever. Maybe, if i do, i need it only to get a better gun. Maybe, if this Covid19 thing gets real funky, in a couple of years my '51 is one of the last guns around here, that still goes bang when needed.
 
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rodwha said:
Does it mix with water allowing it to evaporate leaving behind just the oil like Ballistol? I’ve only read of this product, but just a few times. I quit using WD-40 because this eliminated extra steps and I had it on hand.
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No, or not to my knowledge. It isn’t water soluble oil. But it is a far superior metal preservative in my opinion. I use a bit of air to dry parts if I’ve cleaned with water. Or patches until dry, then Eezox.

One of the properties I like particularly well is that it doesn’t seem to react with blackpowder combustion. I can detect no difference in the fouling between an alcohol swabbed bore and one treated with Eezox.
 
One of the things I love about Ballistol is that it will mix with water and allow it to evaporate leaving behind just the oil. I used to use WD-40 for that, but then it needed removed before oiling so this removed that step.

I’ve been meaning to try it as a patch line too as some say it works quite well. I’ve only tried the cheap grape seed oil SWMBO allows me to use. Let’s just say my groups aren’t what I’d like to see.
 
Am i the only one who swears by Barricade as a rust preventer and metal protectant? For internal lube i use the red Mobil 1 synthetic grease mixed with pure lanolin. Makes for a great grease that keeps the insides of my guns working smoothly and the lanolin prevents rust and stays put and doesnt run with heat. I used the mobil 1 alone but it needed a lil somethin to make it work better. I also use this combo for the arbor lube. Ive also used lanolin mixed with a little canola oil and it made one very great arbor lube...very slick stuff. I try to keep things as natural as possible. Aside from the mobil 1 and the barricade...everything else i use is natural non-chemical products.
 
TheOutlawKid said:
Am i the only one who swears by Barricade as a rust preventer and metal protectant? ...
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I bought a can of Barricade last year to try, when wiping down my guns for storage. Seems to work fine for preventing rust in my climate-controlled environment. I don't care for the smell, though. It reminds me of wasp spray.

My BP guns get wiped down with Ballistol. Not that it smells all that great but it's less offensive to me than Barricade, and is multi-purpose. I've had excellent results using it emulsified in water as a cleaner, or straight as a CLP on modern guns.
 
Antihero said:
Powder gets wet, caps fall off......not great really
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You obviously have very little experience with cap & ball revolvers.
A good Remington 5" barrel revolver is about the best choice for a carry gun if you must carry one.
But, I leave the legalities to you.
If you use #10 Remington caps on a Pietta or a Uberti you will get a snug fit on the cones (nipples) and caps will not fall off.
Load with dead soft .454" balls or conicals for the best seal and use a thick waxy lubricant over the ball so you don't risk contaminating the powder with lubed felt wads under the ball.
Load with GOEX or better real BP, or Triple 7 perhaps.
Finally, seat your caps fully with a dowel to assure reliable ignition and seal them against moisture intrusion with melted candle wax.
And unless you insist on swooshing your cylinder around in your fish tank I don't think that you have any need to worry about wet powder.
Of course, it would be wise to fire off these loads once in a while, clean the gun, and then reload it.
 
Old Stumpy said:
You obviously have very little experience with cap & ball revolvers.
A good Remington 5" barrel revolver is about the best choice for a carry gun if you must carry one.
But, I leave the legalities to you.
If you use #10 Remington caps on a Pietta or a Uberti you will get a snug fit on the cones (nipples) and caps will not fall off.
Load with dead soft .454" balls or conicals for the best seal and use a thick waxy lubricant over the ball so you don't risk contaminating the powder with lubed felt wads under the ball.
Load with GOEX or better real BP, or Triple 7 perhaps.
Finally, seat your caps fully with a dowel to assure reliable ignition and seal them against moisture intrusion with melted candle wax.
And unless you insist on swooshing your cylinder around in your fish tank I don't think that you have any need to worry about wet powder.
Of course, it would be wise to fire off these loads once in a while, clean the gun, and then reload it.
Click to expand...

True, I'm more into frontstuffer black powder stuff. Even then.....not 100 percent reliable
 
My caps never fall off and my powder never gets wet. I would say that scenario may only take place if someone was very new to black powder guns and/or firearms in general. The first thing a person should do is...research. Find out how to use these guns. Most people realize that the proper cap and niipple combination is critical for the gun to work properlly. This alone can minimize cap jams almost entirely. Proper fitting ball/bullet will keep the powder sealed from moisture, and a guaranteed 100% seal even from out of round chambers would be if you use a felt wad or lube disk behind the bullet/ball. No need to put waxy lube over the ball if you do this. Ive walked through a fast moving "creek" while hiking only to fall chest deep into a hole i didnt see in the middle of the creek...the "hole" was practically half of the 50 foot wide creek.. My backpack , along with 1851 pietta navy on my belt, was soaked...and water didnt get to my remington #11 caps paired to Slixshot nipples nor did water pass the barrier of my chamber swaged .36 cal Kaido conicals and all 5 chambers shot without a problem. And thats because i didnt have a lube disk behind my bullets for that extra protection...just had the lube groove filled with gatofeo #1 lube. The guns insides were heavily packed with mobil1 synthetic grease mixed with lanolin which kept the insides protected...all i had to do was let the water drain out by shaking the gun and using my mouth to blow out excess water through the small trigger gap opening and hammer slot hole. Made me realize that these guns can take a beating and that i could rest easy and bet my life that it will work so long as i do my part.
 
Here's a concealed carry B.P. revolver.

20200319_192321.jpg

It has a coil spring action, just under 4 lb. hammer draw, a 3 lb. trigger pull, interference pin for the trigger/bolt screw, dedicated "safety notch", an action shield, packed frame for life long lube / parts protection and can shoot all day, full loads with no binding ( no need to remove the cyl. pin until you clean.
Cleaning chores are the barrel, cylinder and wipe down the frame. Closest to "maintenance free" you can get with a cap gun.

Mike

DANG IT!! I knew I'd forget something! The skinny Uberti hammer roll was replaced with a wide hammer roll. I know it doesn't seem that big of a deal . . . but it's worth the change. Oh, and a bolt block and an action stop! Geez . . .
 
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I remember seeing a video where a guy shot a c&b revolver under water. Don't think he soaked it or anything but still was neat. I know a few guy that have had loaded cylinders for a few years as a test, they shot fine.
if i was able to carry one it would be a fun project to build one from parts. I think I would use a bead sight tho. Wish there were cheap builder kits still available. I have my dad my 58Remington so he put it on his permit so I can shoot it when I go up there.

I got it in a trade maybe have $75 into it, believe it's a 2017 uberti. I think I have a pic of it.
 
http://poconoshooting.com/blackpowderballistics.html

According to data from this article a 140 grain round ball will be discharged at around 1170 FPS using 35 grains of Triple 7 in an 8" Remington New Model Army.
T7 is about 30% more powerful, based on volume, than GOEX BP.
And Lee Precision makes a 220 grain .44 C&B conical mold.

So, if you bought a Pietta New Model Army Sheriff Revolver like this, with a 5 1/2" barrel, and loaded the 220 grain Lee bullet over 35 grains of T7, I think that you could achieve around 800 FPS or more, which would put it into the .45 ACP factory load region.

With a little tuning and a wire bolt and trigger spring, this combo would be just as much of a man-stopper as many modern pistols.
PT-RGASH44.jpg
 
I think a lot of guys underestimate the c&b sometimes.how fast is a 00 or 000 peace of buck shot going 50-100 yards out, bucks shot guys always say it only takes one to hit to kill. Now think a 451 ball will do.

I would think a conical may be more efficient then a round ball with the shorter barrel. Slower but added weight.
 
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