By and large, gun cleaning products and lubes are a marketing gimmick.

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.38 Special said:
I agree with everything you've written, but that one line sums it all up perfectly.

But then again, one definition of "hobby" is "To take a simple thing and make it as complicated as you possibly can."
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Spot on.
My new hobby -- especially with 2 of the 3 ranges or clubs that I shoot at closed for the moment -- is stripping down my gear (including my bench) to only stuff that really works well.
In other words, yes, I'm bored out of my gourd.
 
Conelrad said:
Mobil 1=wet dog smell.

No thanks.

Conelrad
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Maybe my smeller has gone kaput, but I can't smell the few drops of Mobil1 I use on the inside of a carry gun. Nor the couple drops on each of the action bars I ran on a semiauto I shot a full clay course the other day.
 
The arguments I've seen against using motor oil on firearms have to do with toxicity of pour-point additives and relatively poor corrosion protection. I've never heard anyone make any credible arguments that they don't provide good lubrication.
 
JohnKSa said:
The arguments I've seen against using motor oil on firearms have to do with toxicity of pour-point additives and relatively poor corrosion protection. I've never heard anyone make any credible arguments that they don't provide good lubrication.
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That's what I've read, too.
And the reasons I still use it: I use a needle oiler and put a very small amount where I need it (and not on my hands), and I don't use it as a protectant.
 
Yeah. The "very small amount" is part of what keeps me from worrying about the difference in cost between motor oil and a firearm-specific product.

As far as toxicity goes, here are my 2 cents worth:

Cent #1. I'm not really worried about getting it on my hands--I think more about having it run out of my carry gun (in admittedly small amounts) onto my clothes, or having it (again, in admittedly small amounts) spray onto my face during recoil.

Cent #2. To be perfectly frank, I don't really even worry that much about it at all. It's just that it's so simple to find a really good product that doesn't have the issue that I can't come up with a good reason not to go that route. I mean, if it were really hard to find non-toxic gun lubes that were great performers, or if the cost differential was actually significant (to me), then I could rationalize going with something like motor oil. But neither of those things is true so I can't really convince myself that there's a good reason to use motor oil.

I suppose that some people really do need to budget so carefully that the difference in using a product that is ideal vs a cheaper cost lubricant is an issue. If I were in that situation, I wouldn't have any problem using an automotive lubricant--although I'd probably go with ATF instead as it seems like a better fit for firearm lubrication. But I'm not in those kinds of financial straits, so I am currently lubricating my guns with a clear, odorless, non-toxic oil that provides great lubrication and excellent corrosion protection. I'm sure it costs more than motor oil or ATF, but I don't care that it does and, in fact, I couldn't even guess at the difference in price.

AND, it comes in a bottle with a convenient applicator so I didn't have to pay extra to buy one or hassle with transferring the oil into a separate container for use. :)
 
I use syn motor oil, (whatever is left in the bottle after an oil change), and a grease with "moly" for lubrication and brake cleaner and "Eds red" for a cleaner, Windex and Ballistol for black powder.
I like to put handguns and small rifle parts in an ultrasonic cleaner with Eds red and run it for 4 cycles then wipe every thing down and run a patch through the barrel, small parts go in a glass beaker. That ultrasonic cleaner has been used with the same solution for 4 or 5yrs just added a little when needed. I use Johnson & Johnson paste wax on shiny wood and BLO on mil surplus wood, the Arisakas get teak oil, I wipe down syn stocks with Simple Green diluted 4to1.
I think the act of cleaning and lubrication is as important as what you use.
 
JohnKSa said:
Yeah. The "very small amount" is part of what keeps me from worrying about the difference in cost between motor oil and a firearm-specific product.

As far as toxicity goes, here are my 2 cents worth:

Cent #1. I'm not really worried about getting it on my hands--I think more about having it run out of my carry gun (in admittedly small amounts) onto my clothes, or having it (again, in admittedly small amounts) spray onto my face during recoil.

Cent #2. To be perfectly frank, I don't really even worry that much about it at all. It's just that it's so simple to find a really good product that doesn't have the issue that I can't come up with a good reason not to go that route. I mean, if it were really hard to find non-toxic gun lubes that were great performers, or if the cost differential was actually significant (to me), then I could rationalize going with something like motor oil. But neither of those things is true so I can't really convince myself that there's a good reason to use motor oil.

I suppose that some people really do need to budget so carefully that the difference in using a product that is ideal vs a cheaper cost lubricant is an issue. If I were in that situation, I wouldn't have any problem using an automotive lubricant--although I'd probably go with ATF instead as it seems like a better fit for firearm lubrication. But I'm not in those kinds of financial straits, so I am currently lubricating my guns with a clear, odorless, non-toxic oil that provides great lubrication and excellent corrosion protection. I'm sure it costs more than motor oil or ATF, but I don't care that it does and, in fact, I couldn't even guess at the difference in price.
AND, it comes in a bottle with a convenient applicator so I didn't have to pay extra to buy one or hassle with transferring the oil into a separate container for use. :)
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Understand, just disagree re how much concern 2 to 4 drops of motor oil inside of gun poses to health.
Certainly not in dire financial straits nor cheap about what I use on my guns -- there's G96 and other options on my bench right now. I just think the Mobil 1 is the better actual lubricant.
If someone's that tuned into the toxicity factor, I suppose the food-grade lubricants -- Super Lube is one -- would be the best choice.Products from Lubriplate also generally fill that bill.
Re the cost or inconvenience of obtaining a needle dropper bottle or filling one up, I personally don't see it that way. Even when I used exclusively gun specific CLPs, etc, I used precision applicators. Still do, in fact. To my way of thinking, you get better results, everything (gun, bench, hands, etc) stays cleaner and you use less actual product ... which I suppose could be argued as a health benefit, but I'd posit I'd be heading into the intellectual weeds with that one.
In the end, in any case, I think we are discussing an item of minutiae when it comes to the shooting life, although it's an interesting discussion.
I also would say that's its my belief some of the Vunderbar gun products may be more toxic than actually commonly believed.I wouldn't use FP-10 or Weapon Shield, for instance, on a knife blade (but nor would I use Mobil 1, either)..
You and I, I think just disagree a bit on something we've both thought about.
Also this: I'd bet each of our firearms is in top running condition. The ultimately more important factor in gun maintenance, IMO, is that it be done. And I will admit, less so on carry guns -- which will eventually show wear -- I do like some of my bird guns and clay guns looking sharp.
Enjoyed the talk, John.
 
rdnktrkr said:
I think the act of cleaning and lubrication is as important as what you use.
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I sort of said the same thing in the post I linked to. Actually lubing is more important than which one, I see far, far, more issues with no lube than too little, too much, non "gun" lube, etc.
 
Re regimen over specific product, agreed.
By way of illustration: I went once an entire upland bird season, including a fairly harsh winter and probably 15 longish or overnight trips, running fairly expensive or quality bird guns using only 3 products I was toting in my little upland necessaries bag: A little bottle of Beretta gun oil that came with a purchase, a 4 oz aerosol can of G-96 and accordion tube of Zebco real grease.
Malfunctions: None. The guns' condition and appearances afterward ... just fine.
 
STI said:
If it moves I use LSA and Lubeplate Lithium Grease depending of what part it is, solvent Hoppes 9 none have ever let me down copper fouling Sweets 762 or Witch's Brew. J-B Bore cleaner at times, many yrs back at the World Shoot I .asked a Perazzi gunsmith what was that lube he had. "Valvoline 50 wt oil" on a brush he used it on everything.
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LSA is a grease, many people don't know that.
 
mcb said:
The Gestapo will be around to pick you up shortly. The beatings will start before sun-down. :p ...
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True, but after the beatings there will be an application of Ballistol, and recipient of said beatings will feel all better.
 
slicksleeve said:
Does soap and water remove copper fouling? How about for new barrel break-in? I’m not a big black powder guy, (even if there’s one in my avatar), I thought that was all soap and water was used for.
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Janitor's Ammonia can be had, at the hardware store, for about 5$ a QUART. BYE-BYE, copper and lead fouling! I've found that Hoppes can be gotten online for less that half what some gun stores mark it up to.I must agree with the OP, I use a lot of Q-Tips when cleaning firearms, and applying lube. One or two drops of oil, on a Q-Tip, go a long way. Sometimes a toothpick, with oil on the tip, is enough.

For bore cleaning, (only) Dawn dish washing liquid is great, cut it with some water. Brown vinegar chases crud, and dirt. Mobil 1 is great, between deep cleanings, keeps the barrel from crudding up, till you get it back to the barn, for a serious scrub.
 
Dibbs said:
Janitor's Ammonia can be had, at the hardware store, for about 5$ a QUART. BYE-BYE, copper and lead fouling! I've found that Hoppes can be gotten online for less that half what some gun stores mark it up to.I must agree with the OP, I use a lot of Q-Tips when cleaning firearms, and applying lube. One or two drops of oil, on a Q-Tip, go a long way. Sometimes a toothpick, with oil on the tip, is enough.

For bore cleaning, (only) Dawn dish washing liquid is great, cut it with some water. Brown vinegar chases crud, and dirt. Mobil 1 is great, between deep cleanings, keeps the barrel from crudding up, till you get it back to the barn, for a serious scrub.
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I was not aware that ammonia had any effect on lead.
 
mcb said:
The Gestapo will be around to pick you up shortly. The beatings will start before sun-down. :p

I agree. I don't clean very often. I do however like my guns well lubricated especially my competition guns.
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Bingo
 
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