Two year precision rifle build, finished at last!

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Jessesky

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As the title states: Finally finished at last!!
(sort of).

This has been one of those ongoing projects. I took my time with it. Of course it could have been completed sooner than two years, but hey at least it’s done now! The two exceptions that still need finishing are the rings I will be using (I haven’t decided on a permanent set) and the trigger (right now I have a silly Remington factory as a placeholder.
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The action itself is based on the Ed brown 704. If you don’t know the Ed brown 704, it is essentially a Remington 700 with an m1 garand-type extractor. This makes it CRF instead of push feed. It’s sort of like an even larger step up from a Sako extractor.
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It is machined by TL Technologies. Some of you may have heard of them, and some of you may have heard of their dispute with Legendary Arms Works as to who owns their rights to the 704. Nevertheless, I went with the action made by TL. It was very precisely machined, but did take some work to have the CRF feed properly from the AICS magazine. The feed ramp had been polished so bright I could see my reflection in it.
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The barrel itself is chambered in 300 win mag to SAAMI spec, not CIP. It is made by Wilson, and stainless in a 1 in 10 twist. It is 24.5” and features a surefire two chamber brake. Initially I was considering building this chambered in 338 edge, but I like the availability of 300 win mag brass, and in reality it can do everything I need the 338 edge to do. I have yet to do a break-in. That will be my next trip to the range.
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The chassis is a KRG whiskey 3 gen 5 with the side folder. I have to say, this is a great chassis. The lockup of the folder is rock solid. Initially I received a KRG whiskey 3 gen 6, which I did NOT like. The LOP adjustment used one point that was a rectangular plate, rather than the two metal rods. You could never get a solid lockup no matter what. These simply has to be two points of contact.(I’m sorry if you’re reading this krg, but I hope you take the feedback, you guys have great customer service). Krg allowed me to return it, and I said I would take an old stock gen 5. I could not be happier. I have also added the option of a spigot mount for a lower center of gravity on the bipod, and a NV mount. In reality I will never use the NV mount, but I like how it adds some guard over the top of the barrel, and it’s a nice finishing touch. Everything green has been coated in a custom mix of cerakote as well. I was trying to replicate something similar but a bit lighter than McMillans olive drab.
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The scope base is machined by Murphy Precision. I had no idea about this small company, but they had the base I needed and pulled the trigger. Mr.Murphy is so nice! Great customer service and turnover time. The base is beautiful and has 8-40 screws as standard, which I like. It is made out of stainless as well.
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The scope is the new generation of SIG Tango 4. No graphite coloring this time! I have to say my initial impressions are good. I love the Mil DEV-L reticle. I was worried I would find it too busy, but I don’t. It is very fine which is great for its purpose in a FFP long range scope. The clicks are tactile enough, the illumination is great as well. The eye relieve is the one thing that at higher magnification because a bit more precise of a range. The image is clear however and bright. I have included myself aiming at a low light area in my yard. Initially I had a Steiner 5-25x56 with a 34mm tube which I had planned on putting on this build. Naturally as the build grew in expense, I sold the scope to complete it (What good is a scope with no rifle.) This SIG 4-16x44 with a 30mm tube really stacks up! No it’s not as good as the Steiner, but it’s also $1,200 less. It’s optics and features really are that of a scope which is double the price. I have yet to do a tracking test, I will see if I can soon.
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All in the rifle weighs 15.8lb, which I’m pretty happy with since scope, rings, base, and bipod are included in that. Next I have to see how it shoots after break-in!!
 
Looks real good, I wanted to build a 338edge but did not have the range to make it worth it.
My same conclusions, even with disregarding the expense of the brass, the scarcity of the brass was enough to make me shy away. Also most offerings were very soft brass. I then tossed around the idea of a 340 weatherby or 338 lapua. In the end, the 300 win mag can work wonders using 200 grain bullets in handloads, and I would be a better shooter by being able to shoot it more often.
 
My same conclusions, even with disregarding the expense of the brass, the scarcity of the brass was enough to make me shy away. Also most offerings were very soft brass. I then tossed around the idea of a 340 weatherby or 338 lapua. In the end, the 300 win mag can work wonders using 200 grain bullets in handloads, and I would be a better shooter by being able to shoot it more often.
ya I thought about a 338lm of the Ackley version but the gun was a crf savage with the small shank barrel so not enough meat.

the new 30 cal bullets have given new life to the big 30s. I just don't care for the belt, and what happened to that cheap military 300wm brass guys said we would have. I thought a 7mm-300wm would be nice but think I'd build a 7lrm.

How's the chamber throuted should be able to run heavier then 200s.
 
ya I thought about a 338lm of the Ackley version but the gun was a crf savage with the small shank barrel so not enough meat.

the new 30 cal bullets have given new life to the big 30s. I just don't care for the belt, and what happened to that cheap military 300wm brass guys said we would have. I thought a 7mm-300wm would be nice but think I'd build a 7lrm.

How's the chamber throuted should be able to run heavier then 200s.
I plan to run anything between 190 and 230. That seems like the best balance. I considered doing a big 30 with a beltless case. Even so, win mag brass can be had for .50 cents a piece and is not proprietary or scarce. So even if I get half the reloads of say a 300 Dakota, or 30 Nosler before the belt of the win mag becomes an issue, I’ll be happy.
 
A long break in process today. I usually aim for approximately 40 rounds total, less or more depending if the gun is still fouling or I’m getting that squeaking from carbon build up. The first 5 shots I clean after every shot running patches until they come out clean. I then run a lubed patch, and two dry patches. The next shots I clean after every 3, then every 5, and then I shoot ten rounds.

Unfortunately being 90 degrees today, and having to get going with the barrel cooling in between, I was only able to fire 20 shots. I’ll finish the rest of the break in this weekend.
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I did experience a bit of an issue (maybe). I had the chamber cut tight, but I am getting these distinct rings on all my fired brass just before the shoulder. I suspect the chamber might have a burr, and as the chamber cams shut, it scratches the brass. Or it’s an exceptionally sharp chamber? Any ideas? (I am using factory ammo for the break in process)
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Did the Smith use a ruffing reamer, maybe the finishing reamer did not clean up the chamber all the way since your tight.
He used a PTG Reamer, and then said polished to 600 grit. He’s been my smith for years, so I trust him. I’ll see him this weekend, but wanted to poke around here too.

I don’t know if he used a roughing reamer, I’ll ask
 
He used a PTG Reamer, and then said polished to 600 grit. He’s been my smith for years, so I trust him. I’ll see him this weekend, but wanted to poke around here too.

I don’t know if he used a roughing reamer, I’ll ask
Turn a cotton ball in there with the cleaning rod see if it catches if there's a burr. Do you have any chamber cast?
 
Turn a cotton ball in there with the cleaning rod see if it catches if there's a burr. Do you have any chamber cast?
I do have some cerrosafe, looking closer at all the brass, it’s a distinctive pattern on each, that looks like threads almost. The ring does not complete itself, but almost spirals down never connecting. Which is making me thing it’s happening on extraction to the expanded brass. Cotton balls are a good idea.

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Its so fine another polish should clean it up. Maybe what he polished with got a small piece of larger grit, but then it probably be in more spots.

Did you try any groups when doing the break in?
No groups yet. I figured I’d spend more time cleaning on this trip since I had a bit of a time constraint today.

Yeah you’re right another polish should do it thanks. I just didn’t want it to be a future weak point for case separation.
 
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