Info needed: Brazilian Contract 1917 S&W revolver

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In an earlier post I talked of a Brazilian contract 1917 S&W revolver thst hsd been refinished. Went back to look at it today, and may buy it. My question, Is the Brazilian Contract revolver DAO. The gun I am looking at will not hold hammer back for single action shooting. Or will this revolver need repair.
 
Too man variables...how does the bore look? Finish Blued or worn? Scratches or dents?
Have you removed the grip panels? It may be an easy fix.....should be a leaf spring IIRC.....
 
That was my initial thought. I had a Colt 1917 some years back, and as I r ed member it would fire double or single. Didn't know if the Brazilian contract required DA only operation. What i ternal parts would be needed to make it right? A new Hammer?

Most likely it is a problem with the hammer/sear engagement. It may be that a gunsmith who knows what he is doing can stone the surfaces back to proper geometry. More likely is that the hammer - and possibly the sear - will have to be replaced. There also is a small possibility that a weak or broken spring is the issue, and replacing it cures the problem.

There's honestly no way to know for sure until the gun is opened up and investigated. If I was a betting man, though, I'd say that someone dropped that gun onto the hammer and that it will need a new one.
 
The gun has been reblued, logo and crest are weak because it was over- polished. This would be bought as a shooter and not as a collector piece
 
Those are built on the old pre-war, long action N frame Not a lot will interchange with modern N frames. Finding parts may not be easy or inexpensive. Numrich/Gun Parts rarely has what is needed. Jack First might be spendy but often has the correct part AND the person on the phone is knowledgeable about firearms.

Kevin
 
Those are built on the old pre-war, long action N frame Not a lot will interchange with modern N frames. Finding parts may not be easy or inexpensive. Numrich/Gun Parts rarely has what is needed. Jack First might be spendy but often has the correct part AND the person on the phone is knowledgeable about firearms.

Kevin
Checked availability, Numrich has hammer and sear for the 1917 model specifically. Cost is$67 plus shipping. In present condition do you think this pustol is worth $400, or should I offer less.
 
Oldschool shooter

I would go in low like philoe suggested, maybe $275 to $300, and see what they say.
 
The gun is on consignment. Talked to the gun shop owner, I've done a lot of business with him. He will call the owner and explain the issues with this pistol. I offered $275 , would go to $300. Waiting to hear back from the owner. It was his father's gun, his dad passed away earlier this year.
 
Don't know what a 625 runs in your neck of the woods, but around here it would be anywhere between $850-$1000. I would be willing to pay that kind of price for a clean, blue steel 25 chambered in 45 Colt.
 
There also is a small possibility that a weak or broken spring is the issue, and replacing it cures the problem.

Or that the WD40 or 3-in-1 has dried up inside and is preventing the pawl from dropping into location on the cocking notch. I ripped apart a friends model 10 recently and that was the culprit. I doused that gun in gumout carb and choke cleaner and it busted up the gunk in a hurry.

OP, your in the drivers seat with this one. That gun is broken, and you have no clue how much it will cost to make it work properly again. MAKE SURE THE SELLER KNOWS THIS. Stupid lowball... insult the guy. Your willing to gamble at $100 or some such silliness. (Missed a later post, seems your on a good track with explaining issues and working the consignor through the shop owner.)

Most people are afraid to turn a screw on a revolver, but the parts are not hard to install or fit if needed. Open her up and clean the crud out then go to work looking for your problem. I suspect based on past experience with older revolvers that the face of the sear has become worn due to poor heat treat. Those tiny parts would have been treated in a big batch (think more like basket) and could easily have issues of being undercooked (middle of the pile) or overcooked (outer edges). I’m in the minority on this, but a gun like that one gets me going and can become a screaming deal. You know it’s not too messed up since DA works, my money is on a $10 spring or $20 sear.
 
It may not be officially broken, it may have been "fixed" that way on purpose. Back in the late 1950s and 1960s there was a revolver competition that required the pistol fire only in double action. I don't remember the "official" name of the competition, but it was popular for about 15 years and then interest faded until it disappeared completely. Most guys would have a standard S&W "fixed" to fire in DAO, but some didn't want to go that far so they'd have a Spanish or some other S&W clone "fixed" to fire DAO. Over the years, so many folks were bringing these "broken" pistols into the shop for repair, that we had a box of parts and a bench dedicated to changing them back to original configuration. I don't remember the exact parts replacement procedure, but as others have mention, it wasn't all that difficult (even I could do it!) and it wasn't all that expensive. How about some pictures after you get it fixed? Best of luck
 
Just recently opened up my old Model 10 andcleaned the insides andchanged a couple of tired springs. Got me over my irrational fear of tinkering with a revolver. Feel confident that I can probably repair it myself.
 
Had a chance to meet with the owner of the pistol yesterday. He thought I was trying to cheat him. I opened the posts here and let him read them. Also showed him what cost would be for parts depending on what may be broken. He was very indignant, thought $400 was a fair price. I passed. The LGS owner had him remove the gun from his shop,said he wouldn't sell a broken gun, even if the issues with it were made clear to any prospective buyer.
 
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