Alter Remington type cylinders for capper?

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HisSoldier

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I saw a youtube video in which the shooter opened up his cap wells to the sides so a Cash capper would fit easily. I'm thinking of doing this to my Remington replicas but am concerned about flashover.
It figures that by opening the area of the "Window" to the side of the nipple well the velocity of exiting gases would be slower, probably by a considerable degree. OTH, I do not know if this would make flashovers to adjacent chamber's caps more or less probable!

I'm thinking of doing this in the milling machine so I suppose they would look like Colt nipple wells.

Also, I saw a video wherein the shooter had a flashover and he expressed concern about damaging his revolver, but looking over the Remington replica's it seems to me that any chamber that flashes over will dump pressure the millisecond that the ball has opened up between it and the chamber opening, unlike those that exit into the barrel.
So, how dangerous are they, both as unguided missiles and as revolver wrecking lead hammers?
Thanks for ideas,
HS
 
No don't. The Remington smaller nipple recess protects the caps more and also makes chain fires ignited from the nipples less likely I have read. While that may not be huge concern if proper fitted caps are used you will need to cold blue the bare metal after grinding which really is not that durable a finish.

The Ted Cash capper looks like a great high quality capping tool but it is no longer the only good high capacity capping tool around these days.

Fortunately there are now better options for Remington owners than some of the crude chinsy out of spec crud I have come across.

The Polish Capper https://www.polishcappers.com cost a little more but is designed to fit small nipple recesses with the Remington New Model Army specifically mentioned.

You won't have to modify your entire cylinder to use a good high capacity capper. Considering the work needed coupled with the cost of a small container of cold blue or whatever else you need to prep the metal I think you would be better off spending a few extra dollars on a capper that fits.

The smaller nipple recess is also a known period correct trait of the Remington.
 
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Thanks for the info, my revolver is stainless so blue isn't a factor. I wish I could ask that guy if he experienced more chain fires, for some reason the comments section is toggled off in this laptop.
 
If the caps fit properly and wads and/or lube are used, I don't think chain fires are much of a concern. Other revolvers wider in that area (colts, Rogers and Spencer, etc...) were and are made. They seem to work fine. Mike Beliveau does widen his Remingtons. He has no complaints of chain fires happening afterwards.

I still would not do it but a custom job is suited to the preference of the one who does it or has it done.
 
Folks reported that the Traditions straight line capper works fine with the Remington 1858.
It only holds 15 caps but can be purchased on eBay for under $10 delivered.
So there's no need to modify a cylinder when there's such an affordable capper, just buy two!

$9.53 delivered
eBay item number:
312780328923

$9.46 delivered
eBay item number:
233436853429
 
I have handled one of those type of straight line cappers. I don't know if it was the Traditions brand but it was also low priced. It was crude, badly finished and caps would not remain in upright position. I hated it. It was convenient to use and then the caps would start falling over rendering it useless until unloaded and refilled only to repeat the problem. Then the tiny uncommon screws that held the spring steel ears that gripped the caps came loose and one fell off. Everything about it was rough due to poor fit even when it worked. How could they be in business selling something so out of spec I don't know.

Maybe Traditions makes a different and better one. I don't mind the smaller capacity of straight line cappers and I like the fact they are as small and narrow as a pen but after using the garbage straight line capper I had, I never looked at another one again.

I can see why people like the better quality cappers and having the ability to hold a lot of caps is appreciated.
 
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My Ted Cash works ok for my Remington. I also saw that video and wondered the same thing. My problem with it is that it doesn’t hold enough caps. I think I may get the snail shaped capper
 
The Polish one fits Remingtons and is good quality. It holds 150 to 160 caps. The snail capper does not fit Remingtons but is great for Colt sized nipple recesses. It would be my first choice if not for that.
 
How to modify a straight line capper to fit Colts, and how to increase the tension to not release 2 caps.
These cappers are priced as low as $6 each from some vendors.
A Polish capper cost $50 and when using it on a Remington, it needs to be lifted straight up and down off the nipple, and can't be used with the typical stripping motion to strip the cap off the capper.
That's because the Polish capper doesn't have a flexible spring jaw.
So its range of motion during use is much more limited.






 
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Excerpt from a review posted by Robert Parker [with photos] about the TC straight line capper.
It's sold on Amazon for $7.99 and made in the US.

How happy am I then to find that it's a perfect fit out of the package for my Pietta 1858?! I don't know if TC altered their design or what, but this thing fits perfectly in the nipple recess, perfectly seats the cap, and cleanly releases with a gentle twist up. --->>> https://www.amazon.com/Thompson-Cen...1&refRID=EGMQ4HP295JP5PC42EXJ#customerReviews
 
I like using tubing from the hardware store. Take some caps with you find the size that holds caps well cut them 1 1/2 long each tube holds two caps fill a tin before you go shooting they work well in the field beats dropping caps everywhere.
 
I do great with my cappers, my brass snail capper has no issues and i have this plastic snail capper that works great too.. As far as my "stick" cappers...i had to make some adjustments to get them to work. First i had to shave off some brass on the tip because it kept bumping into the frame keeping me from capping the nipple, once it was filed down i had to adjust the spring tension so that it would hold and release caps when i wanted them to. If the spring is too stiff it will grip the caps too hard and wont release, if the spring is too loose then it will drop multiple caps when you try and release a cap on a nipple. But once adjustments are made they work great.
 
I found the inline capper to be almost as fiddly and frustrating to load as just skipping using it. And having to reload it numerous times during a session once your hands are a bit dirty and greasy from the fun materials of this trade only makes it more difficult. I quickly got a snail capper and you can just dump a bunch of caps into it and lightly tap it a number of times and most of the caps turn themselves the right way and those that don’t can be turned quickly. Then put the cover on and be good to go for a long time. But, this is all for use on a Colt style...
 
Is your Pietta cut for the snail capper? Because mine aren’t and the Ted Cash capper wont fit.

mike beliveau has a solution but I haven’t tried it.
Start at 1:47


One of my NMA cylinders is moded as Mike did in the video I tried my Ted Cash snail capper on it and it worked fine.
 
I'm glad this got posted. I have been trying to figure out how to get my inline capper to work on my Remingtong 185...Oops! New Model Army revolver. And I had considered cutting the grooves out like Mike B did on his. I sure liked that Ted Cash capper too.
 
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I use a straight line capper that I've had at least 40 years. Always worked perfectly. I rarely fire more than two cylinders at one time, so high capacity is not important to me, although it seems like it holds plenty for field use. I did change the spring in it, or added some spring, or something when I first got it, but again, has always worked perfectly. I think I added more spring, so it would maintain tension all the way to the end of the caps. Or to the last cap.
 
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