Barrel has lead buildup.

Inspect your taper crimping to be sure you are not damaging the coating. Seat and crimp seperately. Crimp only enough to remove the flare. Stepped expander works best with lead.

Current Hodgdon load data for 115 LRN at 1.10 OAL has 3.9gr as the starting load so maybe you're running a little slow.

My current general purpose 9mm round is an Acme coated 124gr RN with 3.6gr or 3.7gr of Titegroup at 1.08 OAL. These run in the low 900fps range.

I tried some PCed bullets in a new 9mm and got what looked like leading near the muzzle.. But it turned out to be fouling from the coating. If it is lead the coating is failing, like cast bullet lube "running out", or perhaps cutting or shaving the coating during seating or crimping.

i've had the same "problem" with coated bullets. it turned out to be the same "non-problem" as mdi says. clean the barrel once in a while helps. if you don't loose accuracy, there isn't a problem, imo.

luck,

murf

Can't help you with the cause of the leading...but to get rid of moderate to heavy leading nothing works better than the Lewis Lead Remover. Brownells sells them. Anybody that shoots cast should have one in their cleaning set-up.

When I first started casting bullets the Lewis Lead Remover was a God send! Don't use it much anymore 'cause I learned good bullet to gun fit...

Does the OEM barrel have the same problem?

In my 44 I also occasionally get some light to medium leading towards the muzzle with loaded-hot coated bullets. MBC and others. My solution? Shoot 4 or 5 final jacketed or even plated...gets the snot right out.

Before someone goes off the deep end, note that my bbl is not packed solid with lead. YMMV

sparkyv said:

In my 44 I also occasionally get some light to medium leading towards the muzzle with loaded-hot coated bullets. MBC and others. My solution? Shoot 4 or 5 final jacketed or even plated...gets the snot right out.

Before someone goes off the deep end, note that my bbl is not packed solid with lead. YMMV

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Rumor is gas checked bullets do the same thing.

Copper Chore Boy pot scrubber wraped around a bronze brush will take whatever out of your barrel, just make sure it is copper chore boy, test with magnet to be sure.
JW

1 Cor 2:9 said:

Copper Chore Boy pot scrubber wraped around a bronze brush will take whatever out of your barrel, just make sure it is copper chore boy, test with magnet to be sure.
JW

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This.

There's so much conversation about leaded barrels , I shoot very few jacketed bullets. If the diameter is correct leading will me minimal and the other thing I do is not agonize about some lead in the barrel. If accuracy is the same I carry on, takes a lot of lead to lose accuracy. You really shouldn't see any leading with coated bullets though.
Maybe your barrel has a constriction/ tapered bore, something to check. I've had a lone wolf barrel that was less than ideal.
I'd try a few (10 or so) through your stock barrel and see if you have any deposits.

Another thing to consider is the following, if you are getting leading at the end of the barrel it could be an indication that your chamber throat diameter is smaller than the barrel. What this means is that your bullet is undersized going down the barrel. Slug the barrel and measure to see what it measures. Normally if the chamber throat is larger than the barrel diameter the bullet will engage the rifling and you won't have leading plus it will increase the accuracy of the gun.

Obturation said:

There's so much conversation about leaded barrels , I shoot very few jacketed bullets. If the diameter is correct leading will me minimal and the other thing I do is not agonize about some lead in the barrel. If accuracy is the same I carry on, takes a lot of lead to lose accuracy. You really shouldn't see any leading with coated bullets though.

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So true.



This is my Gen3 G17 factory barrel showing round bore with rounded six very smooth rifling.



And this picture shows longer than typical leade length with very smooth start of rifling. What I found shooting lubed lead bullets is that factory Glock barrel's smooth rifling and start of rifling with longer leade allows the bullet to jump deeper into the barrel before bullet base (bearing surface) engages the rifling before building pressure, during which time more gas leaks around the bullet.

The longer time it take for pressure to build means more gas/liquefied lube will be blown forward of barrel before the bullet base deforms/expands to seal with the barrel. If the lead/alloy is hard enough and diameter too small, bullet can essentially slide/skid down the barrel resulting in poor accuracy and leading.

With 18 BHN MBC 124 gr RN (Small Ball) using mid to high range load data of W231/HP-38, I did not experience leading rather fouling build up. The build up was crusty type and flaky. After 300-400 rounds, crusty build up filled the voids in the rifling to essentially make it smooth bore and accuracy started to decrease. As rcmodel recommended, I would inspect my Glock barrels when shooting lead rounds around 300-400 rounds and clean as necessary and the crusty fouling (no leading) was easily removed with Hoppes #9 solvent and bore brush. With clean barrel, I would resume shooting lead rounds with accuracy restored - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...glock-handgun-see-below.847392/#post-11047664

Below picture shows flaky/crusty fouling build up after 100 rounds



My KKM/Lone Wolf/BCA barrels with traditional land/groove rifling will stay clean without any crusty fouling build up even after 500 rounds of same ammo.

When shooting coated bullets, I exercise care as to flare case mouth and taper crimp to not scrape or cut into the coating.

WLDNWALT said:

getting lead buildup towards the end of my barrel ... lone wolf barrel in a G19.

115 grain coated Missouri bullets seated to the depth of 1.08 ... 3.5 grains of bullseye and 3.5 grains of titegroup and got the same results.

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As already suggested, I would look at your case mouth flare, seating and taper crimp process and make sure you are not damaging the coating to expose lead below the coating to cause leading of barrel.

Seating and taper crimping in separate steps will help not cut into the coating. For .356" sized MBC bullets, I would use .378" taper crimp measured at the case mouth.

Another factor is that your are loading it pretty hot, decrease velocity a little.

ms6852 said:

WLDNWALT said:

115 grain coated Missouri bullets seated to the depth of 1.08

I have used 3.5 grains of bullseye and 3.5 grains of titegroup

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Another factor is that your are loading it pretty hot, decrease velocity a little.

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Actually no.

Hodgdon's load data - http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

• 9mm 115 gr Lead RN Titegroup 1.100" COL Start 3.9 gr (1,075 fps) - Max 4.3 gr (1,151 fps)

These are from my Lyman #49 (I often reference load data for slightly heavier bullet when I can't find load data for the weight I am looking for).

• 9mm 120 gr Lead RN Bullseye 1.065" OAL Start 3.4 gr (939 fps) - Max 4.2 gr (1175 fps)
• 9mm 120 gr Lead RN Titegroup 1.065" OAL Start 3.2 gr (1021 fps) - Max 3.8 gr (1091 fps)

LiveLife said:

Actually no.

Hodgdon's load data - http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

• 9mm 115 gr Lead RN Titegroup 1.100" COL Start 3.9 gr (1,075 fps) - Max 4.3 gr (1,151 fps)

These are from my Lyman #49 (I often reference load data for slightly heavier bullet when I can't find load data for the weight I am looking for).

• 9mm 120 gr Lead RN Bullseye 1.065" OAL Start 3.4 gr (939 fps) - Max 4.2 gr (1175 fps)
• 9mm 120 gr Lead RN Titegroup 1.065" OAL Start 3.2 gr (1021 fps) - Max 3.8 gr (1091 fps)

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I should have stated may , my apologies for that. I would still feel more comfortable slugging the barrel and taking a chamber measurement to see how much of variances there could be. Because if the chamber throat is much smaller than the barrel you are sending a smaller bullet down the barrel . One question, is it possible that it could be a bad batch of cast bullets and they are a lot softer than what they are supposed to be?