Thinking about customizing my Undercoverette

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Monster Zero

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Back in the spring I bought an Undercoverette. A stainless one, not alloy, and I suppose one of the last five shot ones, right before the new and improved six shot model came out.

I carry it in my front pocket in a Mika holster.

I'm thinking I'd like to do some kinda de-horning work on it because it has more sharp corners and stuff on it than the 642 it's replacing.

Other than a vise, which I already have, what sort of tools would one get for delicate work like this and how would one start?

I have no plans to shoot anything other than .32 long in this revolver. The BB .32 long wadcutters are quite enough in this one.

Also I have no plans to ever sell this weapon, or frankly any other firearm. So any customizing done on it is for myself and no one else. I have zero concern about trading it and then having someone come back to me with some sort of issue with the work I've done on it.
 
If you're gonna try dehorning for the first time, a CA revolver is a good place to start. Inexpensive and not real pretty to start with. From the ones I've looked at, ain't a tremendous amount of sharp edges to start with. Frame and underlug are already rounded. Can't do much with the front sight since its regulated. Hammer Spur would be one, but in the profile pics, it isn't that obtrusive for a hammer gun. Bobbing would be an option if you ain't worried about hurting the value.

Start slow and remove very little at a time. You can't put back on what you take off, and the less rough you make things, the less polishing it will take.
 
To just take some sharp edges off you could use some fine-cutting files, emery cloth (medium and fine) and some light oil. The hammer spur could be cut with
a Dremel. Some sort of metal polishing cloth (Flitz ?) could be used for overall finish.
 
If you dehorn it, you may not have enough mass to set off a stiff primer and may need to get a stronger main spring.

I've had my Undercover for going on 40 years. and the only mod's Ive done were a lanyard and changing the barrel from 2" to 3".

Good luck. Also don't hesitate to write to the nice folks at CA, they've always been real friendly and helpful
 
MZ- Good luck with your project, some good ideas passed on here. What other ammo have you tried besides the BB WC in your Undercoverette? I've only used Fiocchi LRN and Hornady's H&R Magnum offering in my Undercoverette.
 
I've tried both of the BB offerings, which incidentally sold out at Midway, and like you I've tried the Hornady .32 Magnum loads which I got at my LGS.

I found the Hornady .32 Magnum loads to be serious blasto loads, but manageable with the OEM full rubber grips.

Right now I've got a set of Barami hip grips on it. They work fine with the .32 long wadcutters.

Oh, and also I've run about 20 rounds of LRN thru it also, which I bought as practice ammo. I forget the brand, maybe Magtech.

I already handload for .38 special and .30-'06. I'm planning to invest in a Lee turrett press and get my loading operation a bit more automated and to eventually have a nice supply of SWC practice ammo, which could also be utilized as SD loads if the supply of BB wadcutters dries up...

This weapon's future is as a pocket gun loaded with .32 long wadcutters, and carried as an EDC. If I want to shoot .32 Magnum or .327 Federal loads I'll get an SP101.

I believe the BB .32 long wadcutters are sufficient to solve a problem with a bad dog or a suddenly appearing criminal or two... Every bit as useful as the 642 with maybe half the recoil.
 
Monster Zero

Maybe get a set if Swiss files to break any sharp edges you might find. You could bob the hammer though I have been reluctant to do so with any snubby I have owned. If you want to polish it up a bit, use Flitz; if you want to polish it up a lot use Mother's Mag Polish.
 
bannockburn said:
Monster Zero

Maybe get a set if Swiss files to break any sharp edges you might find. You could bob the hammer though I have been reluctant to do so with any snubby I have owned. If you want to polish it up a bit, use Flitz; if you want to polish it up a lot use Mother's Mag Polish.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Since Charter is really pretty cool about it unlike certain other companies with big legal departments, I've already replaced the OEM hammer with a bobbed hammer that I bought from Charter.

(At the same time I bought the hammer, I also bought a set of the NEW Charter boot grips. They're too big for pocket carry so they're now stashed in my home for wayward grips.)
 
One of my first centerfire revolvers was a Charter Arms Undercover. Back then there were not a whole lot of choices for grips so I used Pachmayr Compacs for the range and a Tyler T-Grip adapter for carrying.
 
61CFAAEF-1AD4-4795-9F6E-03C66526A50A.jpeg
Hadn’t been to many 6 shot Undercoverettes out as yet
I sorta waiting on a 6 shot Undercoverette UL
Which maybe a year or so ...

Above pic is my Charter Goldfinger.. I installed a DAO hammer .. put on a set of black polymer grip panels ... light & small
 
Buckeye63 said:
View attachment 942489
Hadn’t been to many 6 shot Undercoverettes out as yet
I sorta waiting on a 6 shot Undercoverette UL
Which maybe a year or so ...

Above pic is my Charter Goldfinger.. I installed a DAO hammer .. put on a set of black polymer grip panels ... light & small
Click to expand...
WOW!!! Goldfinger indeed! My first thought was to ask if you wear big, heavy gold chains, but then as I looked at it, I thought it looked damn good, lol.
 
If you don't have a lot of experience doing fine work with a file I would suggest that you buy a bunch of wet or dry sand paper - 180/220/320/400 grit and use a 1/2" dowel with a strip of paper wrapped around it for the rounded edges and a flat wood stick (paint stir sticks or popsicle sticks work well) for the flat corners/edges. If you use a file you're going to have to sand out the file marks anyway. The sandpaper will just take a little longer but will keep you from taking off too much. Use a good light on your bench. Be sure to blow ALL of the sanding grit off the gun when you're done. Bobbing the hammer will not reduce reliability to pop primers UNLESS you also seriously lighten the hammer spring. A bobbed hammer actually falls faster and delivers more energy to a primer - the spring is what provides the energy - not the mass of the hammer. I have bobbed many hammers and never had one fail to pop a primer. But to bob one really requires a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and sanding drums and a steady hand. I would try to find another hammer and bob that one and keep the original stock.
 
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Sarge7402 said:
I've had my Undercover for going on 40 years. and the only mod's Ive done were a lanyard and changing the barrel from 2" to 3".
Click to expand...
Thats a mod I would like to do to mine. Where did you find the 3” barrel, as that’s my only issue so far...procuring the longer barrel is not so easy.
 
Older thread but I decided to smooth out the sharp edges on my 3" .38. I used jewelers files and an emory board. I have 2 of the exact same guns and I compare the two by feel with my eyes closed. I can tell a difference. Visually, there isn't anything blaring. Some differences in sheen on the corners. 2D9E1C77-FCDB-421B-A78A-362FC6891C36.jpeg
 
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