Savage project rifle

You got a good buy. I'd invest in a Boyd's stock for it.

Tuning a 260 can be a challenge for the most experienced reloader, I have a few friends that are sometimes left scratching the head but those good days are really good.
J

I also recommend a Boyd's stock. Personal experience recommendation. 100% satisfied.

I've done a pile of savage projects, all of them have turned out well.
I've got the correct wrench for the round nut if you'd like to borrow it as well....I actually prefer those if I'm going to leave the gun nutted.

The Savage 10/110s offer a lot of options in terms of what you want to do with the gun, but at the same time there's lots of opportunities to build something that you aren't really happy with.
I'd suggest shooting the gun as is, as you were intending, and seeing what you like and don't like. Sometimes modifying a factory part makes more sense than replacing them.
Case in point. The newer factory stocks are rather flexible, but also come with steel pillars, a good recoil pad, and generally have a good shape to them.
Unless I'm building a heavy gun, or trying to change the look of the rifle, I find it cheaper, and easier, to just give the barrel a 1/8" gap to keep it from touching, and stiffening the forend if weight savings is not a requirement.
If your trying to build a light rifle, the factory stock is your best option in terms of cost/weight reduction.


I'd guess accuracy will not be an issue, but should you decide to do a barrel swap, consider what you want (think you want) each cartridge to do before ordering a barrel. Some times you may find that you really LIKE working with a round, but you built a gun that doesn't fit it's function.

I built this gun sans planning.


In .250 AI, and really liked shooting it. But rarely used it to hunt, because it weighed like 9lbs before scoping. I ended up giving it to a friend, who pretty much just shoots it at the range, so it's relatively heavy weight doesn't matter to him.

Given what I ENDED up wanting (had I stoped to think about it, a 9+lb .250ai sporter, wouldn't have been it) I should have lopped 6" off the barrel and stuck with the lighter factory stock. I had fun with the build, and it came out nice, but in the end the chambering didn't fit the build as well as I'd hoped.

If the barrel nut is truly smooth;

Wrap a cpl layers of elect tape around it,then use the right size hose clamp and tighten'r up. Then smack the clamp housing to loosen.

LoonWulf said:

I've got the correct wrench for the round nut...

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Did you buy the Midway wrench or some other one? I have wrenches for the notched nuts, but not for the smooth. Not really happy with the notched nut wrenchs as I believe that they are too narrow and don't have enough surface area in contact to avoid the possibility of damaging the nut slot edges. I thought about stacking a couple together and tacking with a spot of weld to double the surface area in contact.

BBBBill said:

Did you buy the Midway wrench or some other one? I have wrenches for the notched nuts, but not for the smooth. Not really happy with the notched nut wrenchs as I believe that they are too narrow and don't have enough surface area in contact to avoid the possibility of damaging the nut slot edges. I thought about stacking a couple together and tacking with a spot of weld to double the surface area in contact.

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Ive just got the wheeler set, and its probably about the same. I havent noticed and real issues, but i dont generally reuse the notched nuts when doing barrel swaps on savages (so ive actually got at least one laying around). With how tight some of those nuts are on there it takes some bashing to get them loose sometimes so i could see the thinner wrench raising the edges of the nut grooves.