Melted Recoil Pad/Marred wood finish help

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Lacquer amalgamator works on damaged finishes and will generally eventually dry to the point that only a touch-up is needed. A typical use for laquer amalgamator is where vinyl mat, with a heavy vase on top, displaced the surface finish on a laquer finished table. The vinyl will destroy the finish. One would attempt the repair without having to refinish the entire table top by amalgamating the existing finish.

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FWIW, vinyl, and many rubbers and other plastics, "gas off" and will destroy lacquer. To the point that.... lacquer finished guitars on a stand is suicide for a finish. Even in a case, I've had lacquer necks that I've finished, were years old and fully "shrunk in", pick up the texture of the plush lining, because the "plush" was gassing off. Its a real problem that luthiers (guitar smiths) even amateur ones (me) see.
 
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So im assuming it is a close formula to lacquer and melts it back to a smooth finish? Like how you dont have to remove lacquer sanding dust before the next coat?

We dont sell as much lacquer as we did 20 years ago before i actually worked here. So Ive never seen it. Does it work on catalyzed lacquer or just conventional nitrocellulose base?

Knowing what i know about lacquer and shellac, i would never coat a gunstock with either.

We recently ordered a gallon of Old Masters brand Master's Armor waterbase urethane. I did a two coat sample and im really impressed with it. They even make an optional hardener for it. The flat finish is not dead flat, more like a hand rubbed oil finish. Im considering getting some of my own for some stocks.
 
Look a Mohawk finishes
Go see articles by Frank Ford at frets.com

Its all there regarding lacquer, varnish, oils, shellac.
 
Nope. Strictly Teles, although I prefer the Thinline. These days I just build what suits me, including amps and effects. Project355 is a reference to 9mm.
 
Lacquer, especially nitrocellulose lacquer, is a 'hot' finish; each coat melts the previous coat and completely combines with it. This is the reason you can sand a nitro-finished piece and not get witness lines.

You can test the finish with lacquer thinner in a hidden spot; if it solvents the finish, it's lacquer. It won't touch the poly's.

Touching up with lacquer is pretty easy because of it's 'hot' properties; poly's are much more difficult to spot-repair.

Larry
 
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