do i need a neck turner and/or deburring/chamfering tool(s)?

Don't own a heck turning tool. But I don't do precision long range either. Deburring tool is a must have in my book

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glockgod said:

Don't own a heck turning tool. But I don't do precision long range either. Debuting tool is a must have in my book

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Exactly what I was going to say.

No.
However, a minimal amount of outside neck turning will improve concentricity of rifle rounds and inside reaming will remove the brass "ring" that sometimes forms at the bottom of the case neck.
Chamfering every case lightly inside and out (to remove burrs) when you get it will make bullet seating a bit easier and prevent a bunch of brass shavings from collecting at the expander and crimp dies. Also, chamfer after trimming bottleneck cases.

Neck turning is pretty deep. . . your rifle might be accurate enough to benefit, if your brass started with poor concentricity.

Deburring is necessary at least every time you trim. I prefer a VLD tool, thusly. I use it for in and outside, followed by a nut driver stuffed full of steel wool to polish off any sharp spots.

Which leads to: get a cheap 6-10x loupe to look at things up close. It'll be illuminating.

I have a neck turning tool.
I bought it when I was turning 308 into 260 rem.
I noticed the biggest difference on junk brass. But then it raises the question of time wasted vs money saved.
The deburring tool is mandatory.

With neck turning it is one of those point of diminishing returns things. I would start off without it and see what things end up as before spending that money. You are usually better off spending that money on better quality bullets to shrink your groups. Then if not satisfied start getting the special tools and snake oil as you see fit.
You can make safe and accurate ammo with minimal tools but how far you want to go .........

A factory Savage Chamber will not require neck turning, but as pointed out, turning the necks will improve accuracy, how much will depend on a lot of things. How are you going to shoot the rifle? I shoot 1,000 yard bench rest with a 6.5 (6.5x47 Lapua) and I spend a lot of time turning my brass into match rounds.

Cleaning the primer pocket is important. Deburing tool and Chamfering is something you should have. I did not go through your list, but do you have a case trimmer? Are you using Bushing Neck / Full Length Sizing dies?

Just went back and opened you file and it looks like you have a good starting point. Keep in mind also that if you do decide to trim you necks, you will need additional neck bushings to give you the desired neck tension.

Bob

I concur with @Walkalong - It’s a mistake to body size then neck size in separate steps. Type S full length sizing bushing die, one step, done. BTDT, you’ll have less run out by doing it in one step instead of 2.

You do need a debur tool and a chamfer tool. A powered prep station is nice - I can’t abide the time wasted or the finger/hand fatigue of the combined hand tools.

Neck turning most likely will not be of benefit - even in precision loads, and even for your Hornady brass. I shoot cloverleaf groups with single digit SD’s every week with Hornady brass which has never been neck turned, and multiple seasons, I’ve even skipped annealing. Lapua brass is even better. Type S FL bushing die + Sinclair Mandrel, trim/debur/chamfer, seat in a wilson die on an arbor press. I certainly wouldn’t waste time neck turning Lapua brass for any application a 6.5 creed could be appropriate - and have experienced it’s not of value even for Hornady brass.

I agree with the others. No need to consider neck turning with Hornady or Lapua brass. If you purchase the neck thickness sizing kit addition for the Hornady Concentricity Gauge (.0005 dial indicator and mandrels), you can measure the case neck thickness for yourself. I was personally amazed when I started measuring those cases some years back and have relegated all other brass as well as my neck turning equipment to the way-back of my case storage shelf. Actually, I might as well throw it away.

It is nice to have experience with what goes into neck turning as it is an important part of understanding precision reloading. But, if I doan gotta, I ain't gonna.

Nice equipment start though. Good job.

Yes...the deburr/chamfer tools. Neck-turning is probably not necessary and only in the hunt for that last tiny bit of precision.

You would likely have more consistent results choosing 1brand of brass to develop your ammunition, I sure did...

Sell the Hornady brass, don’t throw it away. Even once fired, it has value.

Use a full length sizing die, not a neck sizing die. Certainly do not body size and THEN neck size for every loading. Neck sizing only was a fad among a misguided few which is thankfully over. You will get better consistency from one loading to the next by FL sizing every loading.

The WFT does not chamfer and debur, it only trims. You will remain to need to debur and chamfer.

When loading on my loading bench I use the Full Length Bushing Die and only have an additional Neck only die to use on the shooting bench if I have to tune a load. For that an Arbor press works fine.

Bob