Max effort 10/22 accuracy build.

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Kidd, victor company titan, or maybe a krg 10/22 bravo stock. But good gear first, then spend time buying good ammo,
The KRG Bravo stock looks really good to me. I am seriously considering buying one when they get them back in stock. I was hoping someone here had handled one but so far no luck finding someone with hands on experience with it.
 
The KRG Bravo stock looks really good to me. I am seriously considering buying one when they get them back in stock. I was hoping someone here had handled one but so far no luck finding someone with hands on experience with it.
I shoot a krg X-ray in my bolt gun, I would not hesitate to put a 10/22 built into one
 
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It's fun to roll your own. I have one from the late 80s that 30 or so years I switched to a kit from Cabelas. Butler Creek or Green Mtn. It shoots pretty well but my CZs are a little better. Lately I have looked over at Rimfire Central at what others have done. It's your money and plenty of options. I am thinking about it too.
 
I've been contemplating this as well. I had a 10/22 tactical or target model, maybe tactical target, not sure, it had a hammer forged spiraled bull barrel and I never got a chance to accuracy test it because strangely my brother in law wanted to do a trade for a SIG 1911 and I couldn't pass that up. Since then I've had a few 10/22's but am down to one and always got good accuracy from it.

Lately, especially after reading up on it and Pichers 10/22 threads have inspired me to start seriously considering an accuruzed 10/22. Just seems like a fun project and my wife and daughter like shooting .22lr more than anything so while I don't need any more guns. I might add one or two more to the collection.....
 
Much has been written about accurizing the 10-22, a special case, for sure. The receiver of a standard 10-22 is held in the stock with only one bolt, at the forward end. Without a rear screw and a with a very flexible (aluminum) receiver and a forward screw holding the barreled action in the stock, it's very hard to make it stable enough for top accuracy.

I determined that the best way to make an aluminum-receivered 10-22 shoot accurately begs for a pressure pad at the end of the forend...with considerable uplift on the barrel. It worked very well for my rifle and several others that I accurized.

The only rifle that didn't respond to the bedding method was my B.I.L's stainless. I tried everything on it, but it still didn't respond...until we replaced the barrel!! That did it! The factory stainless barrel had rifling problems that didn't allow the rifle to group better than about 2" at 50 yards. A new after-market bull barrel caused it to group as well as my rifle! TaaaDaa!
 
My first one was built by Tom Volquartsen over 30 years ago, before everyone began making their own receivers for fear of patent violations with Ruger. It's capable of one hole groups at 100 yards using Eley Tennex. Air gauged barrels with chamber specifically cut for the Tennex.

You could probably buy one complete from Volquartsen or Kidd that accomplishes everything a parts build would for maybe less money.

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You know over the past 20 years of being an avid shooter, reloading, Ar building, wildcatting and even bullet casting one gun I’ve never remotely been interested in owning was a 10/22

But now I have the itch to build a max accuracy effort 10/22 for our local rimfire benchrest matches.

First I would love to hear about your accuracy builds and how well they do or don’t shoot.

Second: Do you suggest even buying a Ruger to begin with or building a completely aftermarket rifle like you would an AR15?


Ttrl
 
Rimfire Benchrest is a very tough game, demanding the highest quality firearms, lots of wind savvy, and a lot of expensive ammo testing to find just the right batch for your rifle, then buying a "trainload" of it. I started a rimfire benchrest program in Augusta, Maine many years ago and we began with what we had for accurate rifles, then got better target-grade used rifles, then ended up with hand-made, very expensive used competition rifles. My best rifle was a used, Remington 40X .22LR benchrest rifle. I never had a new rimfire benchrest rifle because it was a fun game for me and not a blood and guts competition. My best match I shot two 250's with a fair number of Xs, then, on the third of three targets, had another 250 going with only one shot to go. I fired sighting shots in the borders and the sighter target, then when taking the last official shot, ended up with a 9! Yeah, a .249 was a great score, especially when I ended up with a 749 aggregate and won the match, but it could have been a 750 if the darned last shot hadn't been a bad round. That's rimfire benchrest! And...that was my last season.

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The KRG Bravo stock looks really good to me. I am seriously considering buying one when they get them back in stock. I was hoping someone here had handled one but so far no luck finding someone with hands on experience with it.

I recently found a red one that was in stock. It was very tempting until I discovered I would have to spend fifty more bucks for a set of what amounts to black plastic washers and a butt pad to make it adult size. If the washers were available in red I might have gone ahead with the purchase. The washer thing plus the color turned me off. They tout the ability to change from a kid sized length of pull up to adult size as a plus and I guess it would be for some people. I am not one of those people.
 
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You know over the past 20 years of being an avid shooter, reloading, Ar building, wildcatting and even bullet casting one gun I’ve never remotely been interested in owning was a 10/22

But now I have the itch to build a max accuracy effort 10/22 for our local rimfire benchrest matches.

First I would love to hear about your accuracy builds and how well they do or don’t shoot.

Second: Do you suggest even buying a Ruger to begin with or building a completely aftermarket rifle like you would an AR15?

I felt that same need a few years back. Rather than trust the repetitive hashed-over and over again ideas as offered on a certain site that touts being the "all-in-answer" to what MUST be done to make a 10/22 rifle shoot the same as all the member there, rifles will do, I first looked over many of those folks who really compete in .22 semi-auto rimfire matches to find out what they are doing and using.
I'll stick with what your initial plan involves, the Ruger 10/22 and it's clones. When T/C developed their version of that rile, they did a darn fine job, and it's too bad that they've sorta left that market, and prices for used ones are up there.
Tony Kidd has an excellent reputation for his triggers for the 10/22 style rifle:
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I have and use these two and don't regret the purchase one iota.
KIDD offers several style of barrels that he guarantees ½-inch groups at 50 yards, ask him for which brand of .22 rimfire that involves. Without starting with a GOOD barrel, you'll be better off trying to catch a fart in a bottle.
I'm not a plastic, or composite stock person. I like a good laminated or properly dried, tight grained walnut stock that has been well sealed, but there's no doubt that a composite stock is the most popular these days.
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As you mention, this is for benchrest shooting, so a good, clear, glass set up is paramount. I much prefer an optic with an adjustable objective and the ability to adjust windage and elevation in 1/8th increments.
I didn't start with the Ruger 10/22 investment cast receiver, I chose to use the KIDD "machined aluminum" receiver due to it being held to much tighter tolerances than a casting will produce.
Now, KIDD is not the "end-all" place to shop. Volquartsen offers some very fine 10/22 look alikes, as does several others like Tactical Solutions, but as for me, I just looked at many reviews that were produced from satisfied customers, and there always seems to be some who prefer to provide a not-so-good review just for the sake of being ornery.
 
There has been some fevered "controversy" concerning heavy 0.920 diameter barrels and then the single-screw mounting system allowing a condition referred to as "barrel droop". Rather than tamper with barrel harmonics, many of the top shooters choose to completely float the barrel, preventing any of the barrel to touch the barrel channel. Others, will completely bed the barrel in the barrel channel with something like Devcon 10110 steel bed and then float the receiver.
Tony Kidd sells an additional rear anchoring system, and I've installed a few that does seem to help the rifle do much better:

The back face of the factory cast 10/22 receiver is milled to accept the anchor, which then has a threaded screw installed into the stock:
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Some seem to think that this is over-kill, but those that have had it done seem to be believers as to how it helps:
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I have the Kidd two stage trigger in one of my barely 10/22 any more builds. It's a great trigger and worth every penny it costs IMO. I made a rear hold down and installed it on this rifle in a bench rest stock I built. The action is bedded on pillars front and back plus epoxy bedded. I did before and after tests with the rear hold down. I get identical accuracy with or without the rear hold down. I enjoyed the experiment but that is all I received for my labor.

With a little effort you can add a rear hold down with a piece of dowel rod and epoxy. Split the dowel and epoxy it in the rear of the stock where the recess cast into the action is.leaving a little space, then bed the rear of the action with epoxy. Epoxy bed the action first, then add the rear dowel and bedding. It gives a very tight fit and the action has to be rotated in and out of the stock when disassembling the rifle. As far as I could tell accuracy stayed the same in before and after tests.

Both rifles have Green Mountain barrels and I epoxy bedded two inches of the barrel in front of the barrel clamp on both rifles. I also experimented with pressure pads at the front of the barrel channel of the rifle with the rear pillar bedded hold down. Any amount of pressure made the groups open up and the more pressure the larger the opining. The other rifle has a different design stock and has no way to add a pressure point.

This is my findings, yours may or may not differ.
 
Tons of knowledge and good advice here but before deciding what to do head over to rimfirecentral. Them boys have amazing knowledge but beware of your wallet.
 
I have not forgotten about this thread. I finally picked up a rifle to build an all stock Ruger with the 16" hammer forged bbl and the walnut stock for $400

It came with a bsa sweet 22 scope that's already been removed.

I think the first upgrade will be trigger and a true benchrest style stock probably from Richard's microfit
 
I have not forgotten about this thread. I finally picked up a rifle to build an all stock Ruger with the 16" hammer forged bbl and the walnut stock for $400

It came with a bsa sweet 22 scope that's already been removed.

I think the first upgrade will be trigger and a true benchrest style stock probably from Richard's microfit



CAN’T wait to see it!!!!!
 
I've got Richard's microfit working on an honest benchrest style stock like I have on my savage but that's going to be several weeks out.if the Ruger ends up showing promise I'm sure the Leupold Mk4 in the picture will transfer over. Right now my savage gets me scores in the mid 590's which is absolutely competitive but I've also reached a point where I'm virtually certain my bbl is a limiting factor which is not really feasible to change for these. I actually sold a cz 455 I bedded in another thread at the same show as the Ruger was bought at. It shot about as well as the savage but was as rough as an sm420 transmission to cycle. I just couldn't love it so it's gone

I've settled on the kidd barrel after learning they use a lothar Walther blank.

So the question is stainless vs carbon steel?

My preference is for 16 or 18"
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I love the rugers I built. First one is best & I didn't spend a bunch. Put a Clerk heavy barrel with a Bentz chamber and a target hammer whos manufacturer I've forgotten.

Then of coarsei put the soft bolt buffers in them.

My son & i can hit prairie dogs out to 125 to 150 yards with a good scope & CCI-Mag HPs
 
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Didn't create this but replaced all internal parts except the trigger which local Gunsmith did at 2lb.
Shoots real good at 30 yards, tight as heck, haven't got back to it in a year now but my only holdup is
finding a good rifle scope with perfect PARALLAX at 50 yards. It shoot well enough to deserve a top
end scope. When all other projects get done this will get the proper eyeball set on it.
The big brother to this one did in LOTS of squirrels in his time.
The eotech was a fox buster for the back window.
The trigger is where I would start.
These rifles have almost as many options as an AR, no not even close really but they have options
galore.
 
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Didn't create this but replaced all internal parts except the trigger which local Gunsmith did at 2lb.
Shoots real good at 30 yards, tight as heck, haven't got back to it in a year now but my only holdup is
finding a good rifle scope with perfect PARALLAX at 50 yards. It shoot well enough to deserve a top
end scope. When all other projects get done this will get the proper eyeball set on it.
The big brother to this one did in LOTS of squirrels in his time.
The eotech was a fox buster for the back window.
The trigger is where I would start.
These rifles have almost as many options as an AR, no not even close really but they have options
galore.

If you are not needing big magnification search up for a 6x Burris mini. These were the ultimate scope for rimfire hunter benchrest that required under 6x. Parallax is perfect. That's actually what my 1022 wears for initial testing
 
This is my 10/22 build.....though I have changed the scope since. But this one does pretty well at 50 yards. It's an older barrel though, from Clerke. Yes. I said Clerke,.... not Clark. Also, it has a Volquartsen flat trigger installed as well.

BTW, I've not figured out how to get the actual image large in the post, like others do. :-/
 

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BTW, I've not figured out how to get the actual image large in the post, like others do. :-/
After uploading the picture, click on the link and copy and paste into the "Image" button just right of the smiley face on the menu bar. And tada!

index.php
 
This is my 10/22 build.....though I have changed the scope since. But this one does pretty well at 50 yards. It's an older barrel though, from Clerke. Yes. I said Clerke,.... not Clark. Also, it has a Volquartsen flat trigger installed as well.

BTW, I've not figured out how to get the actual image large in the post, like others do. :-/


My phone allows me the option of thumbnail or full size alongside the file description. I simply click a button.


For the movie gurus out there.
97CBDCD2-1D04-4494-8C7E-7B2789B61045.jpeg

This one shows the available option. If you have several photos, another option appears allowing you to add all photos as full size.
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