CQB45ACP
Member
You will use a lathe to remove a loaded round from a die?
Did I ruin my die?
- Thread starter AzDanMan
- Start date
- Status
CQB45ACP
Member
Well depends on the caliber...for 45ACP for example, the bulge buster is the FCD with plug removed and instructions specifically suggest loaded rounds too. I was reminded of this in a previous thread.
AJC1
Member
So there is a safe way to remove it yes. Do you have the capability to remove it is the question. If you have a lathe and a grease gun your in business. The same exact process can be watched on jonnys reloading bench removing a loaded round from a barrel.
CQB45ACP
Member
Look, if you cannot afford a new die (truly cannot afford one), I’ll buy it for you. Send me a PM.
CQB45ACP
Member
Not too practical but, if the video is legit, yes there appears to be a way.
Obturation
Member
For conversations sake, a long soak in thin oil should seep in and kill the primer rendering the round inert and safe to remove . knowing if that did occur would be your call.
That being said, if a replacement is available , I'd probably just replace it .
That being said, if a replacement is available , I'd probably just replace it .
JJFitch
Member
"I was loading some 9mm and a couple would not drop in the case gauge. So thinking or maybe I wasn't, I decided to try to run them through the Bulge Buster. Well you guessed it, I used my 9mm Luger FCD and now there is a loaded round very, very stuck in it. Is there a safe way to remove it or do I just order another 9mm Luger AND 9mm Markov die?"
Removing a stuck round should be an easy fix with common tools.
You need a deep socket to accept the 9mm round, You need a similar socket that can push the round through the FCD. Now use your vice, you'll have three tools lined up. The larger deep socket, the FCD and a small socket to push through the 9mm round. Your vice will do all the work and you will end up with the round in the deep socket and a cleared FCD!
Smiles,
Removing a stuck round should be an easy fix with common tools.
You need a deep socket to accept the 9mm round, You need a similar socket that can push the round through the FCD. Now use your vice, you'll have three tools lined up. The larger deep socket, the FCD and a small socket to push through the 9mm round. Your vice will do all the work and you will end up with the round in the deep socket and a cleared FCD!
Smiles,
I am not trying to imply the person that started this thread isn't perfectly capable of doing it safely. I am saying most people that already have the tools and knowledge to do it safely wouldn't be asking the internet, even if they have never done it before.
No one bothered to ask where this thing will be pointing while it's being worked on, a good backstop would be a minimum. How many other people are going to be put at risk during this adventure. If you think this round will cook off like loose ammo, it won't. This would be like a gun firing out of battery.
If it has to be done, call a gunsmith. This isn't a good way to learn something new. There are plenty of ways to do it, no one is arguing that it can't be done.
No one bothered to ask where this thing will be pointing while it's being worked on, a good backstop would be a minimum. How many other people are going to be put at risk during this adventure. If you think this round will cook off like loose ammo, it won't. This would be like a gun firing out of battery.
If it has to be done, call a gunsmith. This isn't a good way to learn something new. There are plenty of ways to do it, no one is arguing that it can't be done.
How far into the die is the round stuck?
How difficult/hard did it take to push the round into the die?
What bullet? Diameter?
Case?
Why is the round so large?
A couple thoughts; If any of the body is showing, cut the wall, slowly and carefully with a file or saw blade or even a drill and remove powder and continue like Howie G mentioned. Drilling through the bullet from the top to remove powder sounds feasible. Using an impact method might work, but fabricating a tool/method may be challenging. A shot of Kroil around the stuck case and soaked overnight and pushed out on the press, with a short brass rod is probable what I'd try first.
I wouldn't toss a good die because I screwed up, but it's an FDC, so that isn't a bad idea. Toss the FCD and case gauge get a standard taper crimp die, learn the "plunk test", and precede. (my opinion is based on reloading many thousands of semi-auto rounds, with a large amount of 9mm and have never needed to use an FCD.)
Last edited:
entropy
Member
From what I understand, you have equipment to load 9mm Para. and 9mm Makarov both? Therein lies your first mistake. As a beginner, you should have started with one or the other.
My solution would be similar to JJFltch's. Put Kroil in the top and bottom of the die, tap the side with a small brass hammer, and More Kroil around the primer pocket, (pointing down for that part, to soak the primer.), wait to make sure the primer is soaked, wipe excess Kroil off the bottom of the die, set the FCD die on top of your vise, open just enough to let the round fall out, but allowing the most bearing surface, and at first tap, then progressively harder, hit it with a dead blow hammer. (Use a brass punch if the tip is below the top of the die.) Pressing it in a vise would be more likely to seat the bullet way, way, down. (not that hitting couldn't)
Don't forget to clean the die out afterwards.
Last edited:
AJC1
Member
It's the direction to go because it's the safest. It is not the easiest or fastest but the chance of mishap is almost zero. I try and consider that someone may try what I suggest and if they are injured they may and try and hold me liable. The internet has some real dangerous advice that I would never want to be held responsible for.
Blue68f100
Member
Yes, you just cut the brass leaving the primer in tack. Once you go through the base the primer will fall out along with the powder.
CQB45ACP
Member
I got it, but I’d rather buy the guy a new die
gifbohane
Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2016
- Messages
- 1,177
My bet would be that soaking the round would do nothing to render it inert. I have tried to soak primers to "defuse" them and had no success.
CQB45ACP
Member
I’ve read elsewhere (on this forum I believe) that soaking in penetrating oil did work, but your experience is different? What did you use?
CQB45ACP
Member
Seems risky to me, but I’m not a machinist nor do I (nor any of us except OP) know what this mess looks like.
CQB45ACP
Member
Sticking out with enough space forward of the primer I presume so you’re not sawing on top of primer? Hand drilling through bullet seems less risky. But it’s all academic to me...I’m risk averse and have never been comfortable with the idea of forcing a cartridge through anything (other than using as designed and intended) and I don’t care what Lee’s bulge buster instructions say.
lol, yes. But I think the OP is just going to buy a new die, safest way there is.
Oil doesn't always kill primers, lots of test here over the years. Primers are tough.
gonoles_1980
Member
My range has a bin specifically for live ammo, I'd find a place like that to dispose of it. Treat it like you would a loaded weapon.
AJC1
Member
I have zero comfort about disabling a round using oil or anything else. Risk vs reward is a large part of this reloading experience and technical skill and understanding is all the barrier we have to major disasters. Know your skill and act accordingly.
mcb
Member
Am I missing something? Why not drive it out from the bullet end towards the primer end with a brass punch? This seem a rather straight forward problem?
lightman
Member
I've never had a factory crimp die so I had to pull up pictures to see what they look like. It looks like the top is open and that it would be pretty simple to put it in an overhead press and push it out with a smaller diameter case or something like a bolt. If an overhead press is not available a vice should do it.
I agree, don't bang on it. Being in a die would be about like being in a chamber.
I agree, don't bang on it. Being in a die would be about like being in a chamber.
- Status
Similar threads
