Help valuing s&w revolvers

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With standard velocity .38 Special and the grips that are on it that 49 it shouldn’t be too bad to fire since it’s a steel frame. If you aren’t used to recoil it may seem a bit much.

S&W is claiming that guns shipped for non-warranty work may take up to 6 months before they are repaired and returned per a conversation I had with them a while back. I doubt their lead times have diminished.

For surface rust I have used WD-40 and 0000 steel wool. I have also used copper Chore Boy pads and WD-40 to get rid of rust. Be sure and use a lot of WD-40, Kroil or whatever you use. Whatever you do you won’t be left with a blued finish where the rust was but keeping the gun oiled or using a silicone rag on it will help keep rust from returning.

I think you got a pretty good deal on those 2. You’re going to love the model 15. :cool:
 
river1899

I have used Flitz on a number of neglected, dirty, rusty, oily, caked with powder residue, finishes and all of them have cleaned up very nicely with no removal or harm done to the original blued finish. Use a clean cotton cloth and go easy, a lot of elbow grease is not required. Just use a very gentle motion and then remove the polish with another clean cotton cloth. Here are some "After" results:
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Here’s the haul, $750 total. Model 15-3 is pretty nice, I took off the Hogues and it’s a square frame. Model 49 is a little more rough.
Nice score River, I wouldn't worry about any cosmetic issues until you really use them a bit and see if they suit you. I am a big fan of both J and K frames. My wife is too. She took a defensive Handgun course and fired over 500 rounds of .38 in a 24 hour period using a model 60 all in double action and at the end of it she complained that she thought she was getting a blister on her fingertip. She was the only one in the class with a revolver. Easy to get used to and be proficient. Now my 60-15 in 357 has a bark and bite to match..
My current Js
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Come on boys, relax it ain't worth a rumble over. To the OP. The finish isn't worth any fret over. I agree with what has already been mentioned. A little scrub down with 0000 steel wool after applying some oil and the spots of surface rust will improve. Then a simple clean and oil and your set to go. These used guns earned the right to bear their age and use marks. The main issue of any concerns is the mechanics.
 
That is a fabulous deal. If I had the money right now I would have jumped all over that.

If I could only have two handguns, those might be them.

Yeah, scrub the bad areas down gently with WD40 and super fine steel wool.

If you end up with some missing finish in spots, and it bothers you, a $10 bottle of cold blue will help you cover up the bare spots.

I bought an abused/neglected Ruger Single Six and had to cold blue most of the barrel.

You can tell the cold-blued areas from the areas with original finish, but it doesn't look terrible, and the bare metal is all covered up.
 
Those 2 revolvers show considerable carry wear - but there is nothing wrong with that. If they function well then just go to work cleaning them up yourself.

Read Bannockburn's post #27. Look at his results. You can also use fine bronze wool , but go easy - too much aggression may wear through bluing.
Interesting plum coloration on the 15 ... And by the way , the S&W Combat Masterpiece , later called model 15 , is truly one of the all time great shooters. Yours has character in spades.

I'm a J frame guy. A steel J frame can be very rewarding and manageable if one selects reasonable ammunition and practices - a lot.
 
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Went poking around at the LGS today and was pleasantly surprised to eyeball some original k-frame grips, as well as a pachmayr guardian grip for the j-frame. It’s kind of a gizmo but feels rock solid with the pinky extension popped out. I’ll probably put the Hogues back on the Model 15 but nice to have the originals.
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I work in an office, I don't deserve any respect.
I would recommend 0000 steel wool for stainless and 0000 bronze wool for blued steel - both lubricated with a product called Ballistol, followed by Flitz and a cotton cloth. Ballistol is a synthetic lubricant. I first came across it when working as a machinist in aerospace. We used it with fine grit buffing cloth to clean up tooling marks on titanium.
You found some great guns there. Enjoy and respect them and they will serve you well for a lifetime.
 
You (OP) are lucky. Good score on the two revolvers and you found a nice set of grips for the 15. The Pachmayr grips look good. Don't think I've ever seen revolver grips with the optional pinky extension.
 
20 years turnin wrenches, Junior, so excuse the bloody hell out of me if Ive got a touch of carpal tunnel from earning an honest living 40-50 hours a week out in the weather.

And I didnt say it wasnt controllable- I said it was enough to discourage some NEW shooters from getting enough practice. I know this from training a dozen new shooters, male and female, ages 12 to 52. Some of them nearly wanted to give up shooting altogether after a few rounds through a J-frame. Its not a gun for all beginners.

You want to prove how macho you are by lighting off max loads from a snubby, go right ahead. You aint impressing anyone.
Wow! Somebody got their panties all bunched up.
 
Great deal. If one is motivated, some of the ultra fine steel wool for rust and bluing products works pretty well. Did it on an old SW and it turned out ok. You can send it in if you mess up. There's on line examples but never saved the links. Fun in the basement.
 
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