Got a new sharpener today

This is a very compelling design. I'm youtube searching now.

These two quoted items were key for me to get my knives scary sharp on my Lansky. Keep working with the coarse stone until you get a burr. You can feel the burr with your fingernail or see it with a loupe like ugaarguy suggested. The burr should be felt/seen the entire length of the blade. Then flip over and repeat. Then swap to a finer stone and get the burr and repeat process again...and so on. When done, I remove the burr by passing the blade over a piece of wood, and then I strop. It is foolproof for me and it should work with the Work Sharp Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener. Even my son can sharpen his knives with this method.

ugaarguy said:

Could be a burr that you're moving back and forth as you switch sides of the knife and never completely removing.

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Boattale said:

Just a guess but... It can take more time with the coarser stones to get the blade properly profiled than you might think. Once you get that done, the finer stuff goes pretty fast. At least that's been my experience with the Lansky system, which uses the same principle as the unit you're using.

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Corpral_Agarn said:

I think it's time to order a loupe!

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Yeah man. I have a 3x eye loupe I used for inspecting circuit boards. You would be surprised. What often looks like an otherwise razor sharp edge, under a magnifier looks like a hack saw blade.

Come to think of it, go buy a cheap, disposable razor and look at it under a magnifier...looks like a hack saw blade. LOL.

It seems kinda odd that they would sell this when they have a popular powered sharpening system.

And the powered system isn't that much more in price! So I'm wondering why someone would pick the manual over the powered version?

You can use a piece of paper to see if you have a burr, push the paper to the sharpened edge, if there is a burr, the paper will stop, if no burr the paper will slide past the edge. If no burr, you're not done. If you don't raise a burr you will never get it really sharp.

Mk-211 said:

I'm wondering why someone would pick the manual over the powered version?

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The powered system is notorious for scratching up blades with metal dust from previous sharpenings if not meticulously cleaned. It's easy to ruin tips on the powered system. The powered system requires regularly replacing the sharpening belts. The powered system puts a convex edge on blades, while the manual system puts a flat apex on blades.

I suppose that if people read the directions or watched the DVD, they could avoid those problems.

Would like to hear how well an edge the new system will put on a knife with only 3 stones. Im sure that if Work Sharp finds that people really like this new system, they'll come out with more stones.

The powered system can put a razor sharp edge on a knife. With a quick change of the belt you can even strop your blade.

sparkyv said:

I suck too, but the Lansky makes me look like a pro!

View attachment 977267

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SHOW OFF!!

I use a fine stone then a diamond hone & can get any knife sharp enough to shave with.
I do it by hand without any fancy tools.

Mk-211 said:

So I'm wondering why someone would pick the manual over the powered version?

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ugaarguy said:

The powered system is notorious for scratching up blades with metal dust from previous sharpenings if not meticulously cleaned. It's easy to ruin tips on the powered system. The powered system requires regularly replacing the sharpening belts. The powered system puts a convex edge on blades, while the manual system puts a flat apex on blades.

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I use the powered one. It scratches the knives because of the guides. Black tape can fix that if you want. Fat blades (hunting knives and my SOG Vulcan) that are super thick are worse I just don't worry about it. Some tips are tricky but one can easily not hurt the tips after practice. Now Tanto blades however i don't know if you can do without un-tantoing. Lol

And yeah it's a convex edge. As far as belts I bought a 6 pack of every size 2 year ago when I bought mine. I've sharpened a few hundred knives, about half were nice steel, other half were 440/aus 6 or 8 or cheap kitchen knives and the only one I've replaced was the 6000 grit (3x). I even have two hatchet, two single bit and one double bit axe that will shave you. One belt I cut with a serrated edge. One i wore out and one I replaced yesterday. The manual states they last longer than you think. That's very true.

I have no doubt that the other systems are better and easier on knives. They absolutely CAN produce a razor sharp edge. Sharper than the electric one im sure. Doesn't mean they will though. I have several and I can use them hit or miss. But the powered system can be used by my 9 year old. Seriously....She can make a knife shaving sharp. From absolutely trashed to shaving in under 5 minutes. That's why one would choose the manual. If you have patience im sure it's better. Or if you enjoy the art of sharpening. I don't.

I got a whole Wicked Edge system long ago and am so glad I did. I've gotten knives so sharp that I carefully take it off the sharpener and slide it into it's sheath - I mean I was scared of an accident.

You have a steady hand, sir. A real talent.

AK Hunter said:

I use a fine stone then a diamond hone & can get any knife sharp enough to shave with.
I do it by hand without any fancy tools.

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I’m still using traditional stones.

Mk-211 said:

It seems kinda odd that they would sell this when they have a popular powered sharpening system.

And the powered system isn't that much more in price! So I'm wondering why someone would pick the manual over the powered version?

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If you're in the business and your competitors are selling, and people are buying, another type, why not make it? Cover the market completely.

As to why people buy one type or another, maybe some people are afraid of over doing it with power tools. After having a bad moment with a Dremel. lol