C&B Gunsmiths - Repair, Tuning and Conversion Work

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Mr.jackrabbit is right...you want a tightly fitting wedge. I used to keep mine to be removed with thumb pressure but found that it causes my aim to be off a bit and it really does make the gun "rattle" when its shot...we dont notice it but the gun goes through a whole lot of shock and vibration and if the gun barrel and frame arent tightly fit it makes the gun "rattle" hard for that split second which will cause the loosening and peening of the wedge, arbor wedge hole, barrel wedge hole etc. Loosens it up bad...and can affect your aim/precision. I noticed on one gun i kept at finger tight only that its aim was sporatic..tightened up the wedge to make the frame and barrel lock up tight and my group got smaller. Sometimes if the guns been shot with a loose wedge the wedge alot opens up a bit and you have to spot weld a small bit inside the arbors wedge slot...this will tighten up the wedges hold inside that slot. Sometimes it only yakes a few thousandth of an inch...sometimes a little more...but it makes for a great tight fit and can close up a cylinder gap if its an issue.
 
Sorry i havent been on much...im in texas. Not sure if you all been watching the news but texas has been out of power and water etc and is in a state of emergency. Ive also lost power and was affected. But private message and i will respond when i can get on
Hope all is well for you, sir!
 
This is what happens when the weather is bad and you're cooped up in the house.



The weather has improved so now I'm busy with spring chores - like getting the lawn mower maintenance done, etc. I've not had time to get back to endurance testing my handy work.
 
Good job Bibbyman!! (Thanks for the mention!)

Mike
Wooo i got blamed/honarable mention as well! Haha thanks mr.bibbyman! And great job on the cap post!

Thanks for the kind review.

If you seen anything I did wrong, left out or could have done differently, please leave a comment.

I often add the disclaimer that I do gunsmithing as a hobby and only work on my own guns.
 
I honestly think you did great...especially if it was your first time! Personally id use a smaller diameter screw...but that is a matter of personal preference and also down to whats available on hand...will have no affect on performance when the job is done. Your work was done cleanly and professionally and i am sure you will do great on future projects. I started out just like you...tinkering on my own guns (mainly because i couldnt afford a smith). Lots of trial and error and i will admit my first experiment was not as successful as yours. I was so nervous and had no confidence putting a drill press to my gun! Lol. So again...great job!
 
I did a short video on my Pietta 1860 Army revolvers that the OutlawKid tuned.
Couldn't hit much at 25yds with the camera on. Turning the camera off, hit all 6. :confused::confused::confused:



Wooo! Awesome video mr.drobs! Thank you for taking the time to mention me doing the work! Hope you enjoy!
 
Thanks for the kind review.

If you seen anything I did wrong, left out or could have done differently, please leave a comment.

I often add the disclaimer that I do gunsmithing as a hobby and only work on my own guns.

Ok, this is how I do it but please understand it's not "THE" way. After marking the depth of the ratchet recess, I scribe the safety slot (hammer installed obviously) if the slot is well off center, otherwise I center the drill and drill as far back as the "depth mark" allows. I do this by clamping the trigger guard (with frame attached of course) in a vice. I use a diamond rotary file to make a "punch" mark before I mount everything in the vice. Using a drill motor I drill and tap the hole. No real need to be super accurate with drilling because the post will be trimmed to fit the notch in the hammer.
I make the post by turning the threads off the shaft of the #6 X 32 SS screw (using drill motor and bench belt sander). I then leave about 3 threads showing and cut off the post. Degrease all threads and apply red locktite. When ready, I "eyeball" how much to shorten the post by installing the cylinder and taking a look and checking my progress a couple of times. Once the height is done use the hammer (still mounted) to see how much from each side of the post needs to be removed to fit the slot (this is where any "off center" drilling gets corrected). I use a cut off wheel to shorten and shave the sides for this step. When satisfied, I clean up the top and sides with a file.
Finally I use a small diameter cut off wheel to remove the material to allow the hammer to clear the installed post . . . being careful not to change the original slot in the hammer face.
This is also a good time to check hammer / nipple contact. With the cylinder in position try to push the cylinder forward with the hammer. If you can't, clean up the hammer slot where the arbor threads may be proud. If this won't allow cylinder movement, use marker on the inside forward curve of the hammer to show where material needs to be removed. You can stop when you get cylinder movement. I use a 1/2" sanding drum to dress the hammer when doing this procedure.

Hope this helps or gives you some ideas.

Mike

After posting I saw Outlaw Kid's post and just figured I would explain my use of #6 X 32 screws. Mainly, it comes down to strength. The 6 gives a large screw base as well as more material front to back after shaving the sides to fit the hammer slot. Remember, the post is stopping blowback with a cap hull as a "projectile" . . . which is another reason I like a screw-in post rather than it being staked in place like some folks do.
 
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Aw man that is awesome! Thank you so much for the mention Mr.Shotgundave! Them paper cartridges sure made loading a whole lot faster and easier huh? Was that your daughter that was getting the .36 cal you were building? Did you all ever finish the gun build?
 
Aw man that is awesome! Thank you so much for the mention Mr.Shotgundave! Them paper cartridges sure made loading a whole lot faster and easier huh? Was that your daughter that was getting the .36 cal you were building? Did you all ever finish the gun build?

You're welcome my friend. Well deserved!

You are 100% correct about the paper cartridges. I load that way 99% of the time. Way faster and easier.

That is indeed my daughter. She's 16 and loves shooting the black powder guns. I have more footage from that day, where she is shooting the gun we built on that frame you sent me. I'll dig through it and find it. Here's a quick picture of the gun.

IMG_1921.jpg

Being .36 caliber and having that short barrel, and having your Texas Tune on it, she really likes shooting it.
 
You're welcome my friend. Well deserved!

You are 100% correct about the paper cartridges. I load that way 99% of the time. Way faster and easier.

That is indeed my daughter. She's 16 and loves shooting the black powder guns. I have more footage from that day, where she is shooting the gun we built on that frame you sent me. I'll dig through it and find it. Here's a quick picture of the gun.

View attachment 988391

Being .36 caliber and having that short barrel, and having your Texas Tune on it, she really likes shooting it.

Yeah i remember we spoke about you wanting to build the smaller .36 for your teenage daughter...(for some reason i thought u said she was 12 or 13 years old and you were proud she was following your footsteps into the hobby)... And i wasnt sure if you got around to completing it. Glad you did and put that frame i sent to good use! One day hopefully my daughter will join me on the range too!
 
Thank you ShotgunDave!! That is way awesome!!! Thank you! Ha! and not a single cap jam! Thank you for the shoutout in the video! Truly never thought id see videos of people talking about my work.
 
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