Range Report GP 100 10mm

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jeff-10

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Purchased a Lipsey's 5" GP 100 in 10mm around a year ago. Didn't really want to shoot at a range with my mask on or wait an hour so this is my time firing a gun in over a year. Even though I own several, I probably haven't fired a revolver in a couple of years as lately I have been teaching my friends how to shoot and that mainly involves 9mm's, shotguns and AR's.

I grew up shooting revolvers, especially GP100's, but this is my first with moon clips. I have two other 10mm's but they are both autos. I own a Wiley Clapp 3" GP100 and I inherited a 4" GP 100 that I gave away. Both of those are in 357 and the 10mm by far has the best trigger. Maybe because it is the newest or maybe because it is a Lipsey's although I believe the Wiley Clapp was a Lipsey's also. Every GP100 I have ever fired did nothing but improve with time so I imagine the 10mm's trigger will get even better. I can't emphasize enough how nice the double actions trigger is on it.

Fired what I think in today's market amounts to a small fortune in 10mm. 200 rounds of Blazer Brass 180's, 50 rounds of aluminum 200gr Blazer and 20 rounds of Corbon 135's. I know I have some DoubleTap JHP somewhere but I couldn't find them. Had to take several breaks to reload moon clips but more importantly let the revolver cool down. It got really hot after around 50 rounds. I would hate to shoot that amount of ammo without the demooning tool. It was a real time and finger saver.

The revolver functioned flawlessly. When I took my time in single action it would shoot to the point of aim. Didn't bind at all regardless of how hot it got. The group in the picture was fired single action from a poor standing position at 8.5 yards in an indoor range with terrible lighting. Had the obligatory flyer and I could easily see the revolver was more accurate then what I capable of. Also, had a real problem seeing the front site in their. I probably need to touch it up with something.

All of the 10mm ammo functioned flawlessly and all extracted flawlessly. Used a little more force on the aluminum casings as expected but nothing that really amounted to something out of the usual. I previously put Hogue's on it because the wood grips it came with didn't fit my hand or the gun well. I wouldn't even want to try an extended session with the factory grips. I do think the revolver is more pleasant to shoot than my S&W 1076 or Kimber Stainless Target II but I guess that's subjective.

I ordered the TK Custom moon clips from Amazon and tried them with 40 S&W. Out of the 18 rounds of Winchester Silvertips I loaded up, only 9 fired. The rest had light primer strikes. Didn't bother messing around with it because the GP100 is known not to function well with 40's. Also, a pin on the rear site backed out and I put some Loctite on it when I got home.

Realized when I had finished two things that I seem to forget from time to time. I tend to shoot the heaviest bullets the best, whether it is a 200gr 10mm, 147gr 9mm or 170gr 30-30. Not sure why but it always seems to work that way. Also, revolvers like this, 10mm, 357Mag, 44Mag, etc., are not meant for extended shooting sessions by your average shooter with full power loads. They are kind of like deer rifles that you site in, make sure they shoot well with your ammo of choice and then stored until needed.

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The not shooting 40S&W reliably would drive me nuts and is one of the biggest reason I have not yet replaced my S&W 610 with a GP100 in 10mm Auto. It's got to run 100% with both cartridges to be a viable option for me.
 
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The not shooting 40S&W reliably would drive me nuts and is one of the biggest reason I have not yet replaced my S&W 610 with a Go100 in 10mm Auto. It's got to run 100% with both cartridges to be a viable option for me.

Below is why I did not put much effort trying to shoot the 40 and also why I was not disappointed. I am sure the Ruger engineers had their reasons for not making it function reliably with 40.

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Below is why I did not put much effort trying to shoot the 40 and also why I was not disappointed. I am sure the Ruger engineers had their reasons for not making it function reliably with 40.

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Yeah I have seen that before but I would love to know why Ruger didn't make it run reliably with 40S&W, it's not that difficutl. I have close to 20k of 40S&W through my S&W 610 in competition and its been 100%. The GP100 is so much more appropriately sized for 10mm than the S&W N-frame and I was very intrigue by the 10mm GP100 but the 40S&W not being 100% in it is a hard pill for me to swallow.
 
I am in the process of documenting a review and planning a video right now for this very thing. Testing all things with moonclips without moonclips 40S&W and 10MM with also the regular ruger moonclips. I will give you a secret before the release :) get the moonclips 40S&W for S&W 646 midway part number 181698. I can't guarantee but lets just say I want to get through 200 rounds before I post anything and I am at 80 rounds and have been 100% ignition with 40S&W in the Ruger 10MM.
 
It must’ve been tough peeking at that unfired beauty sitting lonely in the safe while you kept pulling out other guns to shoot all year!

Nice write up on a really nice revolver :thumbup:.

Was recoil any worse than the .357 Mag GP you owned or was it similar? I dont own a 10mm, and in all honesty if the ammo-scarcity madness keeps going and going I probably won’t, but I do wonder what it kicks like in a mid-frame revolver. (My only GP is a 3” .44 Spl.)

Stay safe.
 
I am in the process of documenting a review and planning a video right now for this very thing. Testing all things with moonclips without moonclips 40S&W and 10MM with also the regular ruger moonclips. I will give you a secret before the release :) get the moonclips 40S&W for S&W 646 midway part number 181698. I can't guarantee but lets just say I want to get through 200 rounds before I post anything and I am at 80 rounds and have been 100% ignition with 40S&W in the Ruger 10MM.


Start with a cheap golf club from the thrift store or garage sale and about two minutes with a Dremel cut-off wheel and you have a very low cost de-mooner. It will also hold three to four moonclips worth of brass depending on original length and caliber you cut it off for.

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I look forward to hearing more about if and how you got it to run reliably with 40S&W.
 
I bought an S&W Model 610 a while ago. I've only shot 10mm in the gun but now have some 40 S&W loaded in some moon clips to try next time I take the revolver out.

I have found that all moon clips are not created equal. I have one brand that do not fit the 10mm cases well but work fine with 40S&W. I have another brand that fit the 10mm cases fine.

It is obvious that the extractor groove between the two different cartridges is different and may be part of the reason 40S&W does not shoot reliably in the GP100.

I like BMT Equipped moon clip loaders/unloaders. A bit pricey for some but they make dealing with moon clips a dream.

Anyway, the GP100 should be a good 10mm revolver.
 
It must’ve been tough peeking at that unfired beauty sitting lonely in the safe while you kept pulling out other guns to shoot all year!

Nice write up on a really nice revolver :thumbup:.

Was recoil any worse than the .357 Mag GP you owned or was it similar? I dont own a 10mm, and in all honesty if the ammo-scarcity madness keeps going and going I probably won’t, but I do wonder what it kicks like in a mid-frame revolver. (My only GP is a 3” .44 Spl.)

Stay safe.

It' hard to say because all of the 357's I shot were 3 and 4 inch with full lugs. I think the 10mm recoiled less and I can definitely say it had much less violent muzzle flash. That may have been due somewhat to the longer barrel.

I was not using the most hot factory ammunition other than maybe the 20 rounds of Corbon I shot, so it really isn't much of a comparison to some of those really hot 125gr 357's that are widely available. I will say I much prefer the half lug with a 5 inch barrel to the 4 inch with a full lug. Neither are particularly concealable so i would go with the longer barrel if all other things were equal. Now that most 4 inch barrels are actually 4.2, it seems to be more and more of a moot point.
 
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It' hard to say because all of the 357's I shot were 3 and 4 inch with full lugs. I think the 10mm recoiled less and I can definitely say it had much less violent muzzle flash. That may have been due somewhat to the longer barrel.

I was not using the most hot factory ammunition other than maybe the 20 rounds of Corbon I shot, so it really isn't much of a comparison to some of those really shot 125gr 357's that are widely available. I will say I much prefer the half lug with a 5 inch barrel to the 4 inch with a full lug. Neither are particularly concealable so i would go with the longer barrel if all other things were equal. Now that most 4 inch barrels are actually 4.2, it seems to be more and more of a moot point.
I, too like the GP with the half lug. My SP 101.38 and GP 100 .44 both have that chunky barrel, I can imagine in. 4 or 6 inch lengths they’re a lot more cumbersome.
One of my “off in the future” guns will be a stainless GP 6” converted to .41 Spl....But with the barrel contoured to a 5” half lug.

Thanks for the comparison! :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
I am in the process of documenting a review and planning a video right now for this very thing. Testing all things with moonclips without moonclips 40S&W and 10MM with also the regular ruger moonclips. I will give you a secret before the release :) get the moonclips 40S&W for S&W 646 midway part number 181698. I can't guarantee but lets just say I want to get through 200 rounds before I post anything and I am at 80 rounds and have been 100% ignition with 40S&W in the Ruger 10MM.

Are those moonclips slightly thicker than what comes with the ruger?
 
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jeff-10, I enjoyed your range report. I've had several 10MM revolvers, two early 610s, a Ruger 38-40/10mm Blackhawk, and most recently a 5" GP100, replaced by a GP100 MC. While the 10MM revolvers launch similar weight bullets to velocities similar to the .357 Magnum, the .357 always seemed to have more muzzle blast. This, even when shooting the old Norma, current Buffalo Bore, Underwood and similar hand loaded ammo in the 10MM revolvers.

I did chronograph some .40 S&W in my early 610 revolvers, but otherwise had little interest in shooting .40 in revolvers. I have factory Ruger and Ranch Products moon clips for my current MC revolver. Ignition has been 100%, and extraction near effortless, with and without moon clips, with both factory and reloaded 10MM ammunition. I no longer have any .40 S&W semi-auto pistols, so have not had any interest in shooting .40 S&W in the this or my previous GP100. I think Ruger is building a pretty nice little 10MM revolver with the GP100s.
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Wow, those are thick moon clips, over 5/16" thick.

Maybe you mean 0.0325" and 0.0365" thickness.
I was about to argue, then i realized your right....my brain registered the difference, but not the original values lol.

At .004 im mildly surprised its enough to matter...but then i guess the difference between go/no go gauges is usually something like .005
 
I have little doubt that someone more enterprising than I could figure out how to get 40S&W to function in the revolver but as far I am concerned it is not worth it. The revolver was clearly meant to be fired with 10mm rounds and if I play around with different moonclips and get enough light primer strikes I'll lose faith in it. Then it will become little more than a safe queen instead of a potential house gun.
 
TK Custom sell 10mm moonclips for the GP-100 that are .032 thick and 40S&W moonclips that are .050 thick.

ETA: Still perplexing why Ruger did not do it right and machine the cylinder such that same moonclips worked with both cartridges.
 
if yours has the brass bead front sight, try running a piece of sandpaper or scotchbrite over the sight bead. It really made a difference on mine.
 
I have the same pistol and love it. Although I much prefer the factory wood grips to the rubber Hogue even for full house loads. If you need an extra set of Hogue and want to work a trade let me know!
 
I have the same pistol and love it. Although I much prefer the factory wood grips to the rubber Hogue even for full house loads. If you need an extra set of Hogue and want to work a trade let me know!

My factory woods were so lose and had so much play, I **** canned them. I am pretty sure I got a defective pair.
 
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