Remington New Model No. 4 Revolver in .41 rimfire with intermittent cylinder rotation.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 15, 2020
Messages
6
Hi!

I have recently purchased a Remington New Model No. 4 Revolver in .41 rimfire. This rare little gun with a decent punch has an intermittent cylinder. If I cock the hammer slowly the cylinder will never turn. If I cock it smartly it still won't turn unless I have already cocked it a moment before.

Basically if you pick it up and cock it fast or slow it will not rotate but after that if you cock it at an average pace it seems to work perfectly for as long as you keep going. At any time I can make it malfunction by cocking it very slowly or by just pausing long enough. Orientation does not seem to affect it much. The lock up is decent and the timing is just fine and no drag marks on the cylinder.

I am hoping someone will twig on these particular symptoms! :)

My first thought is that it just needs a good cleaning/deburring/lubrication so the mechanism moves as freely as it is supposed to. (that would be nice as I was going to do that anyway)

Any thoughts?

Gary B in BC
 
Hi!

I have recently purchased a Remington New Model No. 4 Revolver in .41 rimfire. This rare little gun with a decent punch has an intermittent cylinder. If I cock the hammer slowly the cylinder will never turn. If I cock it smartly it still won't turn unless I have already cocked it a moment before.

Basically if you pick it up and cock it fast or slow it will not rotate but after that if you cock it at an average pace it seems to work perfectly for as long as you keep going. At any time I can make it malfunction by cocking it very slowly or by just pausing long enough. Orientation does not seem to affect it much. The lock up is decent and the timing is just fine and no drag marks on the cylinder.

I am hoping someone will twig on these particular symptoms! :)

My first thought is that it just needs a good cleaning/deburring/lubrication so the mechanism moves as freely as it is supposed to. (that would be nice as I was going to do that anyway)

Any thoughts?

Gary B in BC
Spitballing here, sounds like a hand spring issue. You’re going to have to take it down to the pieces...
 
Spitballing here, sounds like a hand spring issue. You’re going to have to take it down to the pieces...

Yes, but it can't be that it's broken or missing. Even if it's because it's weak you'd expect it to be more constant of an issue. If I am cycling it it seems perfect. I could use it if I didn't mind having to cock it twice to get to the first loaded chamber.

Y'seewaddimean?

I hope it is just a weak spring. Simple manipulation might resolve the issue.

You are right I posted too early. I should go commit gunsmithery and see if I can't resolve this with a "slicking" and cleaning and lubricating proceedure.

Thanks though! I'll report back if anything interesting develops.
 
Last edited:
Did you completely disassemble it and check it over for burrs and smoothness of parts then relube and assemble?
 
Powder Slinger, I think further analysis from the Wise Ones on THR would be greatly enhanced by photos of this shootin' iron.

Posed enticingly with leather evening wear, good lighting, perhaps with other accessories...

I'll get my drool bib. :)

Also, good luck with the fix, hope it's relatively straightforward. Sounds like a sweet wheel gun!
 
Mr.woodnbow is absolutely correct...Some springs look fine and in tact but are actually broken...especially the flat stamped steel springs. They may not be broken in half but ir will have no spring tension and if you put extra pressure the opposite way it snaps in half. Ive seen lots of hands springs like this...but without handling the gun i dont think any of us can tell you exactly whats wrong but we can still give educated guesses. Id disassemble and clean and inspect all parts very well before doing any deburring etc.
 
Turn it upside down and point the barrel down, cock it and see if the cylinder rotates consistently. If so it's the hand spring is weak or broken. Does the cylinder lock up when and where its supposed to?
 
Yes, but it can't be that it's broken or missing. Even if it's because it's weak you'd expect it to be more constant of an issue. If I am cycling it it seems perfect. I could use it if I didn't mind having to cock it twice to get to the first loaded chamber.

Y'seewaddimean?

I hope it is just a weak spring. Simple manipulation might resolve the issue.

You are right I posted too early. I should go commit gunsmithery and see if I can't resolve this with a "slicking" and cleaning and lubricating proceedure.

Thanks though! I'll report back if anything interesting develops.
Well that’s fine but you neglected to post pictures! Tsk tsk!! Such a breach of decorum!
 
LOL, You are all correct. I usually have a pretty good idea what is wrong before I disassemble. I do a lot of diagnostics.

I will do a basic cleaning and inspection before I post again (with pix!)
 
Turn it upside down and point the barrel down, cock it and see if the cylinder rotates consistently. If so it's the hand spring is weak or broken. Does the cylinder lock up when and where its supposed to?

As per post #1 orientation does not seem to affect the behaviour at all. I think it's the hand but not the spring per se. I think it's just corroded and dirty etc. We will see.

Thanks!
 
Mr.woodnbow is absolutely correct...Some springs look fine and in tact but are actually broken...especially the flat stamped steel springs. They may not be broken in half but ir will have no spring tension and if you put extra pressure the opposite way it snaps in half. Ive seen lots of hands springs like this...but without handling the gun i dont think any of us can tell you exactly whats wrong but we can still give educated guesses. Id disassemble and clean and inspect all parts very well before doing any deburring etc.

That is indeed tha plan. Thanks!
 
Turn it upside down and point the barrel down, cock it and see if the cylinder rotates consistently. If so it's the hand spring is weak or broken. Does the cylinder lock up when and where its supposed to?

Yes as per post #1 the lockup is decent and the timing is fine.
 
Sounds like something loose. If it in location it works but if it wiggles out of location it doesn’t. Could also be crud. What finish is on the gun? I’m thinking it needs some ATF or gumout carb cleaner in the works to flush out crud and then maybe a disassembly if it still not cooperating.
 
Yes as per post #1 the lockup is decent and the timing is fine.

You keep saying the timing is fine but if you can't cock it normally and drag a finger on the cylinder while watching when/where the bolt pops up (Bolt drop), how do you know that the timing is right? I would "reckon" that 80% of folks reading this post couldn't describe correct timing. I agree that it is probably a hand problem but you discount it before taking the thing apart!! Take it apart and see what "it" is!!

Mike
 
No disrespect intended but most folks really don't know what "textbook" timing is.
The bolt should hit the cylinder, at minimum, one bolt width BEFORE the locking notch. I usually get them 1 1/2 bolt width before the notch but most of my customers like to "throttle" their revolvers now and then . . . but, if it's not even functioning correctly, I don't see how you know it has " good timing".

Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top