Virgin brass

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Vloc1987

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So I just got a new batch of .308 lapua brass. Do I need to size the brass prior to loading? All of my brass is passing the chamber gauge I have and even in the chamber of my rifle and is within spec as far as length. Besides a few dented necks that I can run through my expander mandrel all of it seems ready to go. 2nd question I got is will my expander mandrel set enough neck tension? It’s an LE wilson expander mandrel.


Vincent
 
I have loaded new Lapua, Nosler, Remington and other brands of new brass and have NEVER sized or trimmed any of it with one exception. The only new brass I size is 460 S&W Magnum brass to be shot in a revolver; if I don't size it and have a good crimp, the bullets walk under recoil.

Resizing new brass will probably worsen accuracy rather than improve it.
 
I have loaded new Lapua, Nosler, Remington and other brands of new brass and have NEVER sized or trimmed any of it with one exception. The only new brass I size is 460 S&W Magnum brass to be shot in a revolver; if I don't size it and have a good crimp, the bullets walk under recoil.

Resizing new brass will probably worsen accuracy rather than improve it.


So would it be best to get a factory crimp die for the first firing. I assume after I resize fired brass and use my bushing dies then I will have enough neck tension to not use a factory crimp die?
 
Lapua and Nosler are the two that are nearly perfect out of the box. All other brands should be treated as once fired.
Yup. I even run *-* (Starline) brass through a sizing die before loading the first time. I get maybe two out of thirty that are oversize or oblong out of every batch. Starline, in my experience (YMMV) has been the most consistent commercial mass-market brass around. Rem used to be real good, Federal ditto, Winchester is hit-n-miss but mostly good from the box, fresh.
 
I always run new brass through the sizer and chamfer the mouth, including Lapua. I'm generally shooting for optimum accuracy so having everything as uniform as I can make it supports this goal.

so I have the Redding 3 die set, neck sizer, full length/ shoulder bump sizer and the seating die. Would it be good just to neck size it only without using the body die on it?
 
so I have the Redding 3 die set, neck sizer, full length/ shoulder bump sizer and the seating die. Would it be good just to neck size it only without using the body die on it?

I run new and fired brass through my FL die. I don’t neck size. New brass will have the shoulder in a position to fit all chambers. Your FL die will not come in contact with it. What you’re doing is uniforming the neck of your new brass to get consistent neck tension.

After you fire your new brass for the first time the case will form to your chamber’s dimensions and then you’ll need to bump the shoulder back 0.002”-0.003”

Neck sizing vs FL sizing is another subject that will generate strong opinions on both sides. Suffice to say that when it comes to accuracy, every modern competitive shooter who strives for the most accurate load they can make will FL sizes their brass.
 
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So would it be best to get a factory crimp die for the first firing. I assume after I resize fired brass and use my bushing dies then I will have enough neck tension to not use a factory crimp die?

I have a 308 Winchester for which I use Lapua brass and have found no need to crimp it at all. You shouldn't have to crimp for the first or later firings. The 460 S&W Magnum is a special case; i.e., a lot of recoil in a handgun.

There are some cartridges I do crimp; things like the 375 H&H Magnum and larger. I don't crimp 300 Weatherby Magnum cartridges and have never had a problem. For cartridges that I crimp, I prefer Lee Factory Crimp dies but use roll crimp dies for some straight wall cartridges.
 
I've never used virgin Lapua brass but the last Hornaday I bought I found a little over 10% was longer than the rest, Starline was just a little better, I like all my brass to be consistent especially when trying for accuracy (annealed, weight and length).
 
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