Muzzel threads for 94AE 30-30

Threads on 30-30

  • 7/16-24

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • .578-28

    Votes: 2 100.0%
  • Total voters
    2
Status
Not open for further replies.
M

milsurpguy

member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
549
I had assumed I could just cut 5/8-24 threads on there, so I measured one of my rifles that has 5/8-24 because I figured it probably wouldn't be precisely 0.625'' nope, 0.620 inches.
Then I measured my barrel on my 94AE, well it's right about 0.600", well there goes that plan.
I don't want to cut it down to 1/2-28, I don't want any LH metric BS.
Looks like my 2 main choices are 9/16-24 (.5625) and possibly 0.578x28, which would be kind of weird.

But it looks like I'm stuck. I can't find squat in 9/16-24, silencers, thread adapters, quick connects, DIY form 1 materials. I can't find anything that will let me put a .578x28 anything on a 30cal silencer, which kind of makes sense if you think about it.

I just waited 13 months for an form 4 to go through and don't want to do it again. It doesn't appear I can get a commercially made silencer with 7/16-24 or a thread adapter or quick connect. So form 1 and I can do whatever I want it looks like.
 
What's you aversion to 1/2-28? There's nothing wrong with that for .30 cal, it gives you lots of shoulder with a .600" OD, and tons of muzzle device options (just watch the aperture size).

I wouldn't recommend 1/2-28 on a .30 cal precision rifle due to the slight enlargement of bore it causes, but do it all the time with sporters, lever guns, others that aren't expected/don't need to hold itty bitty groups at range.
 
It's kind of a precision 30-30, if such a thing exists. With hand loads it shoots about 1 inch at 100 yards on a good day.
 
milsurpguy said:
It's kind of a precision 30-30, if such a thing exists. With hand loads it shoots about 1 inch at 100 yards on a good day.
Click to expand...

When I say precision, I mean guns that will hold better than 3/4 MOA at several hundred yards.

1" @ 100 "on a good day" is acceptable sporter accuracy. You would not notice a difference with the belling, and 9/16-24 wouldn't be any better. To avoid that, we're talking 5/8" threads on .224" cal and 3/4" threads on .30 cal.
 
I put 1/2-28 threads on my M1 carbine, that metal looks pretty thin. Only about .95 of metal. I figure that's fine for lower power 30 cals like 30carbine, 300 blackout, 30mauser, 30 Luger, ect.
 
milsurpguy said:
I put 1/2-28 threads on my M1 carbine, that metal looks pretty thin. Only about .95 of metal. I figure that's fine for lower power 30 cals like 30carbine, 300 blackout, 30mauser, 30 Luger, ect.
Click to expand...

Your barrel wall thickness at thread roots and undercut would be about .072". The median minor diameter for 1/2-28 3A is .452"

I've threaded. 300 win mag sporters 1/2-28.

You don't have chamber pressures at the muzzle end, you're not gonna banana peel a barrel from the front. The issue is just one of the bore growing slightly (.0005"-.001") which can adversely affect accuracy, but again, not really an issue with guns that need to be hunting accurate as opposed to winning long range shooting matches accurate. I put 5/8-24 threads on my .220 swift because it could support that size and needs to hit prairie dogs out to 800 yards. But I have 1/2-28 on my 7mm-08s and on my sister's .280, they all shoot MOA no problem.

One should always go with the largest threads a barrel will support, but you still need a shoulder, and to put that on a lever action with threads that are nearly barrel OD means cutting the mag tube back even further. Collars also just don't look very good on a lever gun.
 
Good point. And that's why I'm not a machinist.
Ok I didn't know 1/2-28 threads could go on 300 win mag, then they can definitely go on a 30-30.
I have like 4 inches of no mag tube under the barrel.
With a 30-30 at even 500 yards all I can do is scare prairie dogs. Shoot have a bullet land near them and they all run back underground. If I did hit one, it wouldn't be the one I was aiming for.
 
Ok, next problem. It looks like I'm not going to have a front sight.
It looks like cutting into the barrel to thread I won't have a dove tail for a front sight. The dove tail is only about .6 inches from the muzzle.
I'm thinking turn the barrel down and slip on an M14 sight or something similar.
 
How are you intending to turn down and thread the muzzle?

Just do that to a piece of barstock, then do the ID whatever threads you want and thread the barrels OD the same. Not a new idea and often done.

0589F60B-B1C9-4045-BA94-06AACC1033FD.jpeg

One thing I have done by hand are dovetails. I take a triangle file and grind one of the faces smooth, so it won’t cut (“safe”) at the proper angle. I then mill the slot to depth and cut the dove tail by hand to fit the sight. The slot could be cut with a file as well.

6F1F7BDC-20E6-4BFC-B849-106914135DBD.jpeg


FWIW you might check and see if the sights are going to be tall enough to be usable with the can on. If the can is larger enough in diameter they can’t be seen “over” it, you will be wasting your time as you are going to need something else taller to aim with anyway.
 
Oh my 30cal silencer is 1.5 inches wide. No irons will clear it.
Put it te barrel on a lathe, make it the correct size and thread it on the lathe with tail stock die holder most likely.
 
milsurpguy said:
Ok, next problem. It looks like I'm not going to have a front sight.
It looks like cutting into the barrel to thread I won't have a dove tail for a front sight. The dove tail is only about .6 inches from the muzzle.
I'm thinking turn the barrel down and slip on an M14 sight or something similar.
Click to expand...

Just put your shoulder 1/16 forward of the dovetail. ~.500 is plenty of tenon. AR tenons are .625" to accommodate a crush washer. I normally put a .550" tenon on centerfire rifles, but sometimes a little shorter in a situation like yours. My Marlin 1893 .25-35 has a .51" tenon to leave enough meat for the sight dovetail to stay solid.

milsurpguy said:
Oh my 30cal silencer is 1.5 inches wide. No irons will clear it.
Put it te barrel on a lathe, make it the correct size and thread it on the lathe with tail stock die holder most likely.
Click to expand...

If you're talking about doing it between centers, it's a gamble. It might work out, but rifle bores tend to be snaky, and the bore axis of the last couple inches that dictate bullet trajectory is seldom the same as a straight line from chamber mouth through muzzle. Might get lucky and only be off a few thou at the front of the can, or you might get baffle/end cap strikes.

That's why I put them inside the spindle with a 4 jaw and a spider on the back of the spindle to move the axis where it needs to be. I do this with twin dial indicators and a precision turned rod that goes 2" into the bore and hangs 3" out the front.

IMG_2313.JPG

IMG_2314.JPG

If the barrel OD or protrusions from it are too large to fit in the 1.4" Hardinge HCT spindle bore, I use a large cat's head I made on my big lathe:

20201222_142149.jpg

I use a fixture I made to compensate for barrel taper and allow that kind of articulation in the jaws while maintaining a rigid set up:

20210202_082450.jpg

20210311_132521.jpg

As for die threading, it can be done, but generally requires a much longer undercut and may not turn out as clean as single point.
 
Last edited:
MachIVshooter said:
Just put your shoulder 1/16 forward of the dovetail. ~.500 is plenty of tenon. AR tenons are .625" to accommodate a crush washer. I normally put a .550" tenon on centerfire rifles, but sometimes a little shorter in a situation like yours. My Marlin 1893 .25-35 has a .51" tenon to leave enough meat for the sight dovetail to stay solid.



If you're talking about doing it between centers, it's a gamble. It might work out, but rifle bores tend to be snaky, and the bore axis of the last couple inches that dictate bullet trajectory is seldom the same as a straight line from chamber mouth through muzzle. Might get lucky and only be off a few thou at the front of the can, or you might get baffle/end cap strikes.

That's why I put them inside the spindle with a 4 jaw and a spider on the back of the spindle to move the axis where it needs to be. I do this with twin dial indicators and a precision turned rod that goes 2" into the bore and hangs 3" out the front.

View attachment 996089

View attachment 996091

If the barrel OD or protrusions from it are too large to fit in the 1.4" Hardinge HCT spindle bore, I use a large cat's head I made on my big lathe:

View attachment 996092

I use a fixture I made to compensate for barrel taper and allow that kind of articulation in the jaws while maintaining a rigid set up:

View attachment 995986

View attachment 995985

As for die threading, it can be done, but generally requires a much longer undercut and may not turn out as clean as single point.
Click to expand...

How much to do a 24 inch 94AE barrel?
Just the barrel, already removed, super easy.
 
milsurpguy said:
Deal, where do I send it and should I just shove $60 in the box with the bbl?
Click to expand...

No, never a good plan to send cash, and you'd have to know return shipping to do that.

Best thing from here is to send an email or Facebook message. Jerrica handles our communications and service queues, and she does not monitor bulletin boards.

[email protected], Facebook.com/ECCOMachine
 
MachIVshooter said:
No, never a good plan to send cash, and you'd have to know return shipping to do that.

Best thing from here is to send an email or Facebook message. Jerrica handles our communications and service queues, and she does not monitor bulletin boards.

[email protected], Facebook.com/ECCOMachine
Click to expand...
Yeah you are the next state over so that will work pretty good.
 
milsurpguy said:
I had assumed I could just cut 5/8-24 threads on there, so I measured one of my rifles that has 5/8-24 because I figured it probably wouldn't be precisely 0.625'' nope, 0.620 inches.
Then I measured my barrel on my 94AE, well it's right about 0.600", well there goes that plan.
I don't want to cut it down to 1/2-28, I don't want any LH metric BS.
Looks like my 2 main choices are 9/16-24 (.5625) and possibly 0.578x28, which would be kind of weird.

But it looks like I'm stuck. I can't find squat in 9/16-24, silencers, thread adapters, quick connects, DIY form 1 materials. I can't find anything that will let me put a .578x28 anything on a 30cal silencer, which kind of makes sense if you think about it.

I just waited 13 months for an form 4 to go through and don't want to do it again. It doesn't appear I can get a commercially made silencer with 7/16-24 or a thread adapter or quick connect. So form 1 and I can do whatever I want it looks like.
Click to expand...

Standard V-threads are supposed to be flat topped by a few thousandths 0.620 vs 0.625 sounds about right.
No purpose is served by NOT flat topping the threads.

It avoids galling problems on the weakest part of a v-thread.
That very fine top of the thread.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

F
  • Locked
Muzzel brake and barrel threading
Replies
9
Views
592
brickeyee
B
M
  • Locked
Minimum Barrel OD for threading
Replies
6
Views
572
MachIVshooter
MachIVshooter
HoosierHunter128
  • Locked
Thread adapter converters for suppressors? Is it safe?
Replies
14
Views
2K
jmorris
jmorris
A
  • Locked
Good choice for 5.56 or .223 Wylde Match AR barrel 20-26" (threaded).
Replies
1
Views
550
cfullgraf
cfullgraf
Gtscotty
  • Locked
Threading light hunting rifles for a suppressor
Replies
21
Views
17K
MachIVshooter
MachIVshooter
Back
Top