1st .357 Loading... Now What?

Status
Not open for further replies.

eddiememphis

Member
Joined
May 31, 2021
Messages
462
Location
Denver
I bought some used .357 brass from Maverick Reloading.
They were very clean so I inspected, decapped and trimmed.
Primed with CCI 550's, they are sitting, anxiously awaiting some powder.
I have a pound of H-110 and 100 Hornady 158gr XTP's. #35750, rated up to 1400 fps.

How much powder?

Should I just pick a load and call it good or load different powder weights to see what works best?

I have Hornady, Lyman, Hodgdon manuals, which vary a lot, from 13 to 17 grains.

I am not a competitive shooter. I won't hunt with these loads. I don't have a chronograph. And I know what will be the best in the 6" revolver is unlikely to be the best in the 16" rifle.

As usual, I am overthinking this, but want to see what you guys think.
 
My notes list 14.2 for the 158xtp. I'd start at the lower load and work up. One good thing about a revolver, no slide to not cycle on a light load. A caution note for the rife....make sure the bullet clears the barrel on light loads. I had a light load not clear and luckily caught it before squeezing off another round.
 
The Winchester data I have for 296 and 158 gr. Win JHP is 16.6 grs. 296, with an asterisk that says "DO NOT reduce powder charge with 296 powder. Any further reduction in powder charge or change in components can cause dangerous pressures". Source is from Loadbooks USA, Inc.
 
How much powder?
Should I just pick a load and call it good or load different powder weights to see what works best?
I have Hornady, Lyman, Hodgdon manuals, which vary a lot, from 13 to 17 grains.

Load all your cases with 15.0 grains of H-110. You’ve got the right primers, and with a good roll crimp, you will have fine ammunition.

Doing “ladder work ups” with a revolver or semi-auto pistol is not a thing. Loading all to the same, and practicing with said revolver is a thing, IMO.
 
Last edited:
Load all your cases with 15.0 grains of H-110. You’ve got the right primers, and with a good roll crimp, you will have fine ammunition.

Doing “ladder work ups” with a revolver or semi-auto pistol is not a thing. Loading all to the same, and practicing with said revolver is a thing, IMO.

Thank you for some practical advice.

Since the loads in my manuals range from 12.7 (Hornady) to 17.0 (Lyman), you can likely see my hesitancy.

When it comes to the advice to start low and work up, start where and work up to where? If I started at 12.7 and went to 17.0, that would be a lot of loads to keep track of and without a chronograph I doubt I would see much difference unless I went from minimum to maximum in one step.

The advice to not load below 3% of max doesn't make sense since Hodgdon lists a range of 15.0 to 16.7. Max minus 3% is 16.2, well above the listed minimum. And to go extreme, 17 minus 3% is 16.49. The minimum listed load I have is 12.7!

As a new handloader, I obviously don't want to mess things up- I like all my fingers in their current arrangement. With the widely varying published information I have, not to mention all the questionable loads in the internet, it can at first seem overwhelming.

I like the advice to pick a load and learn to shoot it, rather than tune the load to the gun, especially since I am not shooting for trophies or food.

Thanks for the input. It won't be my last stupid question, I can assure you!
 
Try this; look in your reloading manual(s) and find your bullet. Go down the powder list until you find the powder you want to use (H110/W296). Set your powder measure/scale for the listed starting load and load 12 (2 cylinders full) and test. It is not recommended to go below starting charge with these powders. If the loads are good, try more at the same charge (many times my "good magnum" loads are near the bottom of the scale). Then if you are looking for velocity, raise the powder charge .4-.5 gr and retest. Repeat until you find "The Load"...

BTW: "stupid questions" are OK to ask as they are the easiest to answer...:rofl:
 
H110 / W296 is pretty touchy stuff. It likes a Magnum primer and only likes a very slim loading region at the higher end. And it's always good for a light show and sun tan.

View attachment 1007663

For 357M plinking or general use, I'd suggest another powder, if you have it.
.
As a self-defense load, H110 has the advantage of setting your attacker on fire if you miss close enough. Even at longer ranges.
I tried 110 and found it too touchy when loaded light and too torchy for low-light conditions. What worked best out of my RBH (6.5” bbl) with a 158gr Speer GDHP was 15.5gr according to my notes. Also says better out of the Handi-Rifle so it did clear the barrel and then some. I don’t have any velocities in my notes so it must have been between Chrony killings. :(
 
Thank you for some practical advice.

Since the loads in my manuals range from 12.7 (Hornady) to 17.0 (Lyman), you can likely see my hesitancy.

When it comes to the advice to start low and work up, start where and work up to where? If I started at 12.7 and went to 17.0, that would be a lot of loads to keep track of and without a chronograph I doubt I would see much difference unless I went from minimum to maximum in one step.

The advice to not load below 3% of max doesn't make sense since Hodgdon lists a range of 15.0 to 16.7. Max minus 3% is 16.2, well above the listed minimum. And to go extreme, 17 minus 3% is 16.49. The minimum listed load I have is 12.7!

As a new handloader, I obviously don't want to mess things up- I like all my fingers in their current arrangement. With the widely varying published information I have, not to mention all the questionable loads in the internet, it can at first seem overwhelming.

I like the advice to pick a load and learn to shoot it, rather than tune the load to the gun, especially since I am not shooting for trophies or food.

Thanks for the input. It won't be my last stupid question, I can assure you!
I agree with using Hodgdon’s data since they are the powder manufacturer. I have loaded many 357 Magnum loads at 15 gr H110. You don’t gain much velocity in going to max (100-150 FPS depending on whether you’re loading for revolver or rifle), and your brass will thank you many times over for the reduced pressure.

If at some point in the future you find yourself without magnum primers, and you can find it, Alliant 2400 makes a great .357 mag load with standard small pistol primers.
 
H110, BE-86, Bullseye, HP-38. Which is best for 357 ‘mid range’ magnum?
 
H110, BE-86, Bullseye, HP-38. Which is best for 357 ‘mid range’ magnum?
HP38 makes nice light to mid loads, if you are after hotter but not full power BE86 works well.
H110 only does one thing well, full power loads but it does do that well.

So for mid range magnum from your list BE86 should work well for you.
Alliant 2018 data
upload_2021-6-27_11-24-11.png
upload_2021-6-27_11-24-29.png
All charges are MAX, reduce 10% to start
 
I bought some used .357 brass from Maverick Reloading.
They were very clean so I inspected, decapped and trimmed.
Primed with CCI 550's, they are sitting, anxiously awaiting some powder.
I have a pound of H-110 and 100 Hornady 158gr XTP's. #35750, rated up to 1400 fps.

How much powder?

Should I just pick a load and call it good or load different powder weights to see what works best?

I have Hornady, Lyman, Hodgdon manuals, which vary a lot, from 13 to 17 grains.

I am not a competitive shooter. I won't hunt with these loads. I don't have a chronograph. And I know what will be the best in the 6" revolver is unlikely to be the best in the 16" rifle.

As usual, I am overthinking this, but want to see what you guys think.

Thanks for posting this.

I have been kicking around this EXACT same issue.
Same Bullet, Powder, Primer & same Manuals along with a Sierra.

The big variance in data had me concerned as well.

I finally settled on 15.5/grs of powder last night and loaded up a dozen test rounds.

I am going to be running them in a New Model Black Hawk & a Henry Lever Action.

I hope to test them out early July.
 
My load for HDY XTP 158 gr. , H110, CCI SPM primers, COL 1.57", Starline brass, heavy roll crimp is 16.3 gr.
I did load workup using Hodgdon data 15.0 - 16.7. 16.3 gr. resulted in no char on the brass, good accuracy and 1224 fps from my 4.2" GP100.
My notes say "Big Boom, Big Flash" . You should always start low and work up.

For a much less expensive and fun to shoot target load I use MBC coated LSWC, CCI SPM primers, 6.2 gr. CFE Pistol, COL 1.61" velocity is 1014 fps from the same revolver.
 
What other powder would you suggest?

I'm a big fan of Universal for, well, just about everything pistol-related. For .357 plinking loads, I don't think there's a better powder out there unless one is just really determined to have a sore wrist when they're done shooting.
 
I find the Hodgdon's data is closer to real world for me. Hornady's max loads tend to be much less than Hodgdon, so I use Hodgdon data for their powder and Hornady or Lyman for the others. I will have to give Hornady credit that my chronograph results tend to be right with their data.
 
If going through the gyrations of varying loads, testing for accuracy, etc. be sure to shoot off a rest. Without it, not much reliable data.
 
Thank you for some practical advice.

Thanks for the input. It won't be my last stupid question, I can assure you!

Actually, I think your question was a good one. When I started I’d wonder the same “Work up from where and to where?” Gun writers have to say those things.

I’m just some random dude that knows the loading tables and has a lot of personal experience shooting 158 grain bullets with 15 grains of H110 with Mag primers and roll crimps.

I’ve also tried both more and less than 15 grains with no benefits either side of 15. I’ve also failed when I tried standard primers.

In times of unlimited resources, handgun work ups using different components can be a learning experience. But these ain’t those times. You’ve got 110, run with it. Enjoy shooting!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top