Primer=accuracy???

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Okay, so a couple of things to report.
1. Homemade primers apparently DO have a life expectancy
and I had 2 pierced primers!
Weird to see smoke coming from the bolt!
There was no drama to really speak of, just the smell of primer powder and a slow wafting of smoke coming from the chamber.
2. Using a chronograph for the first time, it appears to me the #'s were all over the place!
Don't know what the acceptable spread is but I don't think the #'s I got would fall into the acceptable range.
I know it's NOT the powder charge. I am SUPER OCD about my charges being dead nuts on target (no pun intended).
Bullet seating depth is pretty consistent too, within 0.002+/-
Case prep is meticulous, all cases are within 0.0005+/- in length of each other.
About 50/50 for full length sizing vs neck sizing.
Case volume/weight? No Idea but they are ALL from the same lot from the same manufacturer.
Bullet weights are within 1.0grs. of one another.
Neck tension? No idea. And even if I knew how to set it and/or measure it, I wouldn't know how to fix it if it was the issue.
Variances in the #'s could be due to...?
 
To the OP. you may want to try another powder like Varget. It may be more accurate for your rifle.
 
They will return to somewhat normal prices in time.

So...in the meantime just keep on keepin' on?
How confident are you that it's my primers?
I agree that they are the most likely culprit but I've seen guys get pretty pissed with the results they were getting from so called "premium" factory ammo.
That's not to say that they were or were not expecting a 1-2 FPS difference, I wouldn't know.
How much difference is acceptable if everything is, say, dialed in? Quality powder, cases, bullets, primers, etc.
 
Is the chrono far enough away from the barrel? You only want to measure the bullet and not any of the smoke and powder coming out the end of the barrel.
 
Is the chrono far enough away from the barrel? You only want to measure the bullet and not any of the smoke and powder coming out the end of the barrel.
Hmmm....that is a good question.
I think it was. The instructions said 15 feet and I guessed at that but I'm thinkin' it was probably less than that by a few feet.
I've never owned or used a chronograph before and I was afraid to blow it to smithereens with it being misaligned with my first shot!!
(I've screwed up the moving parts of a rock, according to my dad years ago!!:rofl:)
 
Inconsistent Ignition.
Ignition is more than just primers, think of it as the whole package from fpin fall and spring weight to internal drag all the way to primers quality, consistentcy of depth or flash holes etc. all working together to ignite a cartridge full of powder.
So...in the meantime just keep on keepin' on?
How confident are you that it's my primers?
Seems reasonable..
I agree that they are the most likely culprit but I've seen guys get pretty pissed with the results they were getting from so called "premium" factory ammo. Factory ammo is a craps shoot. IMO
That's not to say that they were or were not expecting a 1-2 FPS difference, I wouldn't know.
How much difference is acceptable if everything is, say, dialed in? Quality powder, cases, bullets, primers, etc.
That's subjective IMO
 
Ignition is more than just primers, think of it as the whole package from fpin fall and spring weight to internal drag all the way to primers quality, consistentcy of depth or flash holes etc. all working together to ignite a cartridge full of powder.

That's subjective IMO
Okay, all that makes sense.
But how do you make adjustments/corrections to "the whole package" without knowing the what or why?
Think of it like this.
I was a mechanic from the late 70's to the early 90's. I worked on everything and anything. From lawnmowers to Rolls Royce's to Lamborghini's to chainsaws.
In regards to automobiles, in particular to "classics", people would bring their cars in for tune ups.
I would spend a fair amount of time doing diagnostics and determine where to start.
I would use the latest tools of the time but the most important tool I had was experience.
With these tools I was almost always successful in tuning the car to proper running condition, barring any mechanical issue such as a flat cam lobe, damaged valve, or just a plain ole worn out engine. Issues such as those were fixable but took time and money.
So back to issues with this hobby.
I got a chronograph, now what?
How do I go about diagnosing the cause and then fixing it?
I kinda figure the numbers I got weren't ideal. What do I do about that?
Adding all the numbers from 200 rounds and averaging them, I come to a total of 2651fps average. (I did 40-5 shot groups)
According to my reloading books, I'm about in the middle of the specs.
.308 bolt action Savage 26" barrel, 168gr. HPBT/FMJBT
 
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