No more GOEX?

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Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I've also found 777 to be spiky and unpleasant in .38S&W, .32S&W and .32H&R BP loads. It says in the loading manuals NOT to use it 1:1 in cartridges. I use about 20% less then drop a double-filler wad over the top to take up the air space - IF I have to use it, which currently I don't, or IF I choose to use it, which I don't ever. But I at least have before and know how to IF I have to. Prefer not to. With all the global transport issues, I haven't even bothered checking on Schuetzen or Swiss powders availability. Used to get it from Grafs and Buffalo but it was pricey.
In my muzzleloader I cut my charge from 120 grain to 110 if I use 777. I personally don't care which I use. But I haven't wait a flint lock in 15 years.
 
There are several substitutes on the market, made in various places. They have their plusses and minuses, but none of them ignite as easily as real black. If you are using a flintlock, you must have the real stuff. Black horn is hard to ignite even in an inline. Pyrodex, triple 7, and American pioneer are somewhere in between.
FWIW -Although not as good as BP, I have shot flintlock rifle with Pyrodex as a main charge, and 4FG BP in the pan. Traditions specifies this combination as OK in their flintlock rifles btw. Prefer BP of course.
 
FWIW -Although not as good as BP, I have shot flintlock rifle with Pyrodex as a main charge, and 4FG BP in the pan. Traditions specifies this combination as OK in their flintlock rifles btw. Prefer BP of course.

There is always the old trick of a little 3F down the bore first and then the Sub powder on top. That will get your flinter lit up fast. I have done that with percussion loads when using Pyrodex. No hang fires ever. It only takes a small amount. I never even measure it.
 
I always ran FFF in rifles, as BP is slow enough the way it is. Never an issue. Also used FFF in my pistol. The guns are an old CVA 0.50 caliber percussion Mountain Rifle. And the matching .50 Mountain pistol. I'm 53 and my dad bought the rifles for he, my brother and I as kits. BP was $5/lb back then. Came in a red and white metal can. Still have some.

What I DO remember about it, is that li it is VERY COROSSIVE. Stuff would rust almost immediately. Had to flush the barrels in hot soapy water as soon as you got home. Prodex and the replacements are supposed to be a LOT more user friendly. HATE to see the supply close, but have no Flint lock guns or cannons... so luckily it won't affect me personally.
 
...What I DO remember about it, is that li it is VERY COROSSIVE. Stuff would rust almost immediately. Had to flush the barrels in hot soapy water as soon as you got home. Prodex and the replacements are supposed to be a LOT more user friendly. HATE to see the supply close, but have no Flint lock guns or cannons... so luckily it won't affect me personally.

Black Powder itself is not actually corrosive, however it absorbs moisture which will facilitate rust.
If you thought cleaning real BP was a pain or had to rush to beat the rust, just wait until you try Pyrodex.
Pyrodex has a reputation even worse for causing rust and stubborn fouling.
 
There is always the old trick of a little 3F down the bore first and then the Sub powder on top. That will get your flinter lit up fast. I have done that with percussion loads when using Pyrodex. No hang fires ever. It only takes a small amount. I never even measure it.
There is always the old trick of a little 3F down the bore first and then the Sub powder on top. That will get your flinter lit up fast. I have done that with percussion loads when using Pyrodex. No hang fires ever. It only takes a small amount. I never even measure it.
Thanks for the information. May have to get some Pyrodex RS to conserve my 2FG and 4FG by using layered loads of BP with Pyrodex. (BTW, I have read elsewhere that 5 gr of 4FG down the bore followed by Pyrodex also works well as a layered load in a flintlock. IIRC 5gr of BP is case capacity of an empty 22 long rifle case, would make measurement of the BP part of the charge easy.)
 
About 200 yrs if kept dry and actually if gotten wet can dry out and still use it, as verified by people killed from playing with civil war cannon balls that are still active, also civil war era guns still loaded and powder still viable.
did not know civil war cannons with BP was still explosive. Did the canon balls have a delay fuse?

I’m buying some BP just to keep some around!

wait wait…. they make real BP and substitute. What brand are the real stuff?
 
Civil war cannon balls loaded with powder were usually detonated by a tapered fuse that came in several time increments. The fuse was inserted into an opening in the ball. It was ignited by the propelling charge. Other projectiles had percussion fuses that detonated on impact.
 
did not know civil war cannons with BP was still explosive. Did the canon balls have a delay fuse?

I’m buying some BP just to keep some around!

wait wait…. they make real BP and substitute. What brand are the real stuff?
Shuetzen is a manufacturer and Swiss if you cannot find any residual Goex anywhere. As of 8 AM EST, Track of the Wild has Swiss 3F in stock but you have to buy 25 lbs minimum. $37 a pound :thumbdown:.
 
Shuetzen is a manufacturer and Swiss if you cannot find any residual Goex anywhere. As of 8 AM EST, Track of the Wild has Swiss 3F in stock but you have to buy 25 lbs minimum. $37 a pound :thumbdown:.
25# min order ???? gezzz
 
Yes, I received a text from Pauline Tuesday morning. She said she had received over 850 orders Monday night and didn't know if there was enough stock to fulfill them, as they were filling the orders in sequence as received.
 
Yes, I received a text from Pauline Tuesday morning. She said she had received over 850 orders Monday night and didn't know if there was enough stock to fulfill them, as they were filling the orders in sequence as received.

I put an order in, If it happens great. If not, oh well...
 
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