The RUGER OLD ARMY Club

Mike Beliavau did some extensive testing of 777 and Goex FFFg in Ruger Old Army. This one he explained that 777 does not like compression. He has a 6 part series of videos on the testing.
Thanks very much for the link to that video. I'm definitely NOT compressing the 777; 33gr looked high but the velocity with that charge seems good. I'll give it a go. A common view here in the UK is that about 21gr 777 gives best accuracy, but I've tried that and it was nothing special. The guy in the video is getting 3" groups with the revolver on a rest. I would hope to get that kind of group standing, unsupported - perhaps I'm expecting too much!
 
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Is this gun new to you? First range experience?

I don't think the cylinder gap would cause this kind of poor accuracy.

I'm wondering if the chambers are not indexed properly to the bore? Is the cylinder original to the gun? An aftermarket cylinder? Is there any damage to the muzzle? Forcing cone damaged or cut out of square? Heavy lead buildup?

I'd think some variation in charge, velocity, etc, may string shots up and down. But you're reporting wild groups.
 
Is this gun new to you? First range experience?

I don't think the cylinder gap would cause this kind of poor accuracy.

I'm wondering if the chambers are not indexed properly to the bore? Is the cylinder original to the gun? An aftermarket cylinder? Is there any damage to the muzzle? Forcing cone damaged or cut out of square? Heavy lead buildup?

I'd think some variation in charge, velocity, etc, may string shots up and down. But you're reporting wild groups.

Good morning,
Thanks for the thoughts on this matter. Yes, it's new to me, but it's in fine condition and I have been shooting for a good number of years (competitive target, long distance and hunting) but although it's my first time with a revolver I have some pistol experience and a reasonably steady hand so I'm hoping it's not all down to me! Maybe the only way I'll find out is to shoot it off a rest (not tried that yet).
I have checked the chambers/cylinder - original to the gun, properly indexed, no muzzle damage, no obvious issues with the forcing cone and no lead build-up.
I have been careful with measurement of charge, seating of ball etc, but I'll start again and try to eliminate as many variables as possible. I've not yet checked velocities over the chrono so will do that too. I'm not looking to take down bears at 100 yards; just to be reasonably accurate for competition purposes at 25 yards.
 
Just groping for ideas.

For this kind of inaccuracies, the ball would have to be rattling down the bore (eliminating some defect in muzzle, forcing cone, or chamber alignment) .

Have you recovered any balls in good condition to examine the rifle marks on the driving band? Have you slugged the bore to see if it's oversized? The balls shaving a ring when loading?

Long shot. Is this an adjustable sight model? Could the sight be loose?

For sure, let us know how the problem was solved.
 
Just groping for ideas.

For this kind of inaccuracies, the ball would have to be rattling down the bore (eliminating some defect in muzzle, forcing cone, or chamber alignment) .

Have you recovered any balls in good condition to examine the rifle marks on the driving band? Have you slugged the bore to see if it's oversized? The balls shaving a ring when loading?

Long shot. Is this an adjustable sight model? Could the sight be loose?

For sure, let us know how the problem was solved.

Well, I have been groping just as much! The balls are a good tight fit in the bore - I certainly can't push one in by hand (but it will be an idea to try and recover a ball or two); I have now just done some "bore-sluggery" and found clean/consistent engraving of the ball which produces a flat driving band of 0.1705" width and a diameter of 0.4525" (measured with both a traditional micrometer and a digital vernier). A shaved ring of lead is produced when loading. Yes, it has adjustable sights but they are not wobbly. I'll go along to the range again tomorrow and have another session. Thanks for all your suggestions; I'm coming to the conclusion that I need to practice more!
 
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i watched a man fan fire his OAR just at dark, talk about fire and smoke. i would not do that with any of my OAR,s, but it was a sight.
 
Found at favorite toy store.

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The only problem is.... it's unfired. No box or wrench. I was expecting a used one to shoot and rough house with. Now I'll have to decide to salt it away or just shoot it.

Turned out, when I cut the wire tie and could pull the hammer back, it was clear it had been shot. The action was black inside. I took it apart and scrubbed it out.

Yesterday I cast up some balls and I shot it this afternoon 12 shots. It was uncomfortably cool with 14mph wind.

Ruger Old Army blue first shots October 2021.jpg

Did good. I'm planning to shoot it again tomorrow when the weather is supposed to be better.
 
I'm continued to shoot the ROM this morning but my middle finger is getting tired of the abuse. I'm 6' tall (or I was at one time) and average size hands for my size. A lot of people have bigger hands and fatter fingers.

What's the fix? Will thinner grips be enough? Old model Super Blackhawk grip frame? After market frame with Dragoon trigger frame?
 
Bibbyman, I’ve seen a lot of Old Army’s with something like this on them. I’d bloody my knuckles before doing this to a single action revolver, but to each their own.
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I've never owned a Ruger single action with plow handle grips. The two Vaqueros I owned for a while we're birdshead. So this is my first real experience with a Ruger XR3-RED grip frame.

I got out one of my first generation Colt SAA and compared it to the ROA. Right away, while the profile was close, the Ruger was much fatter all the way around. As I pick up the Colt, I instantly wrap my pinky finger under the bottom and rest it on the sloping bottom of the grip panel. When I pickup the Ruger, I tend to put all three fingers around the inside curve.

The pinky under grip pulls my middle finger down and away from the trigger loop. The three fingers on the front curve puts the knuckle of my middle finger against the loop.

I'll try with the pinky under hold and see if that helps.
 
I went out and shot a cylinder empty using the pinky under hold. No middle finger bump but I had to make an effort to re-grip after each shot.

I'll probably do something about the grips to take some fat off them around the middle.
 
After 28 years I finally got my firearms rights back. I no longer have to defend myself with primitive weapons. I sold my beautiful black powder pistol set and am bidding you fellows goodbye.. Im off to the 1911 forum...lol.. roa1.jpg
 
There looks to be a tendency to modify the hammer spur on the Old Army. Most are made by grafting on a spur from a Bisley or Super Blackhawk. I got to thinking that maybe be easier to put an Old Army nose on a 3 screw hammer?

Ruger hammers November 2021.jpg

Here is a standard 3 screw hammer on top of an Old Army. (Not perfectly aligned in picture) The profile and features are nearly identical. The standard hammer has a safety notch but that would cause a problem.

The nose could be attached a number of ways. TIG welding would be nice. Could cut a mortise and pin it on.

If I can find a 3 screw Super Blackhawk hammer...
 
We made a visit to one of our favorite toy stores today. The same one we got the ROA a while back. Not your typical gun shops. This one his all kinds of things. I looked through a couple of boot boxes of pistol grips. I had one panel off my ROA to compare. I found and bought two sets of grips. Both sets fit and feel much better than the original grips.

Ruger pearl grips Nov 2021.jpg
Ruger black grips Nov 4 2021.jpg
 
dickydalton
Not real but nice.
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The real thing or not, I like them too!
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And in the interest of keeping this black powder related:
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