The RUGER OLD ARMY Club

Bippyman

A friend of mine had grips very similar to the ones shown here on his Ruger Super Blackhawk and it worked wonders in terms of felt recoil, muzzle flip, and damage done to your fingers and knuckles.
ZBC57PR.jpg

The company who made these grips was Mustang Grips, long out of business, but I bet you could find a grip maker who could make you a pair that closely resemble this design.
 
bannockburn said:
Bippyman

A friend of mine had grips very similar to the ones shown here on his Ruger Super Blackhawk and it worked wonders in terms of felt recoil, muzzle flip, and damage done to your fingers and knuckles.
View attachment 1036723

The company who made these grips was Mustang Grips, long out of business, but I bet you could find a grip maker who could make you a pair that closely resemble this design.
Click to expand...

I got the grip thing covered. The thin, checkered hard rubber grips are working well.

index.php
 
severnsider said:
Good morning,
Thanks for the thoughts on this matter. Yes, it's new to me, but it's in fine condition and I have been shooting for a good number of years (competitive target, long distance and hunting) but although it's my first time with a revolver I have some pistol experience and a reasonably steady hand so I'm hoping it's not all down to me! Maybe the only way I'll find out is to shoot it off a rest (not tried that yet).
I have checked the chambers/cylinder - original to the gun, properly indexed, no muzzle damage, no obvious issues with the forcing cone and no lead build-up.
I have been careful with measurement of charge, seating of ball etc, but I'll start again and try to eliminate as many variables as possible. I've not yet checked velocities over the chrono so will do that too. I'm not looking to take down bears at 100 yards; just to be reasonably accurate for competition purposes at 25 yards.
Click to expand...

Well, I think I've achieved a reasonable result by using 20gr Swiss No. 2 (fffg), an OxYoke wad soaked in a mix of Crisco and beeswax and a .457" soft lead ball pushed down with an external loading device firmly onto the wad/powder. Off a rudimentary rest at 25 yards they're all within a 5" circle; off-hand this increases to a 7" circle, so I rather feel that proper black powder gives (for me) a better result. Might try again with some semolina filler to get the ball closer to the end of the cylinder. Feeling much better about things now!
 
The base pin retaining pin on my Old Army is pretty much freewheeling. It turns with no real friction or detent. Should I be concerned?
 
Bibbyman said:
The base pin retaining pin on my Old Army is pretty much freewheeling. It turns with no real friction or detent. Should I be concerned?
Click to expand...

It should turn roughly half a turn. The detent ball on the off side (that retains the cross pin) may offer enough friction to keep the pin from moving. The main thing is that it be locked when loading on the gun or you'll bend the base pin.

Mike
 
45 Dragoon said:
It should turn roughly half a turn. The detent ball on the off side (that retains the cross pin) may offer enough friction to keep the pin from moving. The main thing is that it be locked when loading on the gun or you'll bend the base pin.

Mike
Click to expand...

I'd like to feel like it's secured and not have to check it every time I load.
 
Bibbyman said:
I'd like to feel like it's secured and not have to check it every time I load.
Click to expand...

I hear ya! I checked several of one of my customers ROA's and they were the same. Since I only shoot cartridges in mine I've never paid much attention to it. I keep it unlocked so I can drop the cyl.

Mike
 
Bibbyman said:
The base pin retaining pin on my Old Army is pretty much freewheeling. It turns with no real friction or detent. Should I be concerned?
Click to expand...
Is it possible that the detent ball came out or that the pin is installed from the wrong side of the frame? The only other thing I can think of is the detent spring broke or lost its temper somehow.
 
C Younger said:
Is it possible that the detent ball came out or that the pin is installed from the wrong side of the frame? The only other thing I can think of is the detent spring broke or lost its temper somehow.
Click to expand...

It's installed correctly - slot on right side. The detent ball pushes in and comes back out. I have no experience to relate to how strong it should be.

How would one go about replacing the spring?
 
Ok, on further inspection, I see that there is some tension (not much) from the detent ball when the slot position is anywhere other than the open or unlocked position. You'll notice there is some clearance for the ball to pass through the frame when removing the cross pin.

Hope that helps/makes sense.

Mike
 
45 Dragoon said:
Ok, on further inspection, I see that there is some tension (not much) from the detent ball when the slot position is anywhere other than the open or unlocked position. You'll notice there is some clearance for the ball to pass through the frame when removing the cross pin.

Hope that helps/makes sense.

Mike
Click to expand...

I'll look at it again when there is daylight. :uhoh:
 
Classicballistx.com is no more. Today, the website was officially decommissioned when the host held me up for ransom.
I've still got some whole ROA's and critical parts for sale as well as one or two CBX cylinders. When those are gone, I'm through.
For the most part, y'all here at THR ROA Club have been a great circle of acquaintance and I hope those of you who are CBX customers are still pleased. Thanks so much for the very good sixteen years!
If you want anything from me, end your email to [email protected].
Adios.
Edo.
CBX
 
I bought a cylinder from ClassicBallistx and have never had a problem. I don't even know where the OE cylinder is.

I'm sorry to see them ending the operation.
 
REFRESHING MY MEMBERSHIP!!

Several weeks ago I sold my fixed sight ROAs to other cowboy action competitor friends. My arthritis is simply too advanced to compete and enjoy the sport. So technically for a while I could no longer claim membership in the club!

Thanks to a tip from Bibbyman, I now have a stainless adjustable sight ROA. It dates to 1980-81 by serial number. It appears to have been fired once, wiped down and then stored; not much crud on the inside when I cleaned it today. No bad dings or corrosion inside or out, although the base pin was bound up due to a tiny bend at the locking notch. I suspect the previous owner committed the common sin of trying to load the cylinder on the gun with the base pin unsecured. I got the bend corrected without any excitement.

This revolver has a grooved trigger face, the first I have noticed. It that common on ROAs of that vintage?

Here she is, after cleaning, lubing, and reassembly, posing prettily on the roll-top loading stand made by Hunter Baskins. The 1980 Gun Digest just happened to fall open on a Ruger chapter! :)

Here's hoping I can still be #38.

IMG_0259.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice ROA and nice photo. I think you won't have any trouble keeping #38.
My 1977 ROA had grooves on the trigger until I filed them off as I did not care for them.
 
Nice one J-Bar ! As far as I can tell, it seems the adj. sight S.S. have wide triggers with grooves. All my blued ones have thin, smooth triggers. I don't have any fixed sighted versions (I work on a lot of them though!!) but all of them (blue and stainless) seem to have thin /smooth as well.

Mike
 
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