I'm literally going crazy with LRPS. Please Help.

Take vortex put in garbage, but another non vortex scope.

I am a little late here, but over time I have learned to check the simplest and cheapest things first. Reattached and tightened the rings with blue lock tight. Failing that, substitute another scope to eliminate the ring & mounting problem. If the new scope works then you have isolated the problem to the rifle scope itself. The next step would be to replace the rings. If THAT fails that you may have a more serious problem with the rifle base itself. (I doubt it) And try, though it is difficult sometimes, to chalk these up to learning and enjoying your firearm as you work to make it perform to your standards. Those side screwed rings you mention are designed (Warnke or something like that) and MADE for the CZ 527 and have GREAT ratings.

MR WICK said:

I'll watch a hundred videos, read a hundred books. I need to solve this problem.

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MR WICK said:

I had it professionally installed. All the levels, vices, torque wrenches.

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Is this your first rifle with a scope? Sounds like all the growing pains for someone who just started shooting with a scope. Professionally installed just means someone else did this for you, not necessarily that they did it right or didn't make a mistake. You need to do everything yourself.

You don't need a hundred videos and books, but if we're going to put a number on the videos, you need ONE video to teach you how to properly mount a scope and ONE video on how to make corrections. A 223 bolt action has minimal recoil and should not be loosening any screws... if mounted right. If you are doing your part you shouldn't be having these problems unless it is a bad scope. Have someone else shoot your rifle as suggested. That is your next step.

How much experience do you have with a scoped rifle? This sounds like your first rifle and it might even be possible that you're not achieving the same point of aim. How are your groups at 100 yards? How many times can you repeat a good group at 100 yards? And at 200 yards, when you say you are 6 inches high and 4 inches to the left, is it a decent group? After you had problems with 200 yards, did you ever go back to 100 yards and achieve a tight zero at 100 yards? It's not uncommon for a new shooter to have decent groups that are 4-6 inches off POA the further you go out. Before you go adjustment crazy, you need to take a lot of time getting your POA right.

Scopes are fairly simple to check function against a tall target and even simpler to have a buddy shoot it.

@Varminterror

My shooting buddy had almost the same scenario as you - sent the scope in to Vortex, there was around a 1 moa shift in crosshairs with each recoil.

With cz rings on the cz receiver I'd just assume a bad scope. If you are using the cz to picatinny riser, make sure the rings are tight, and the riser, but it really sounds like a bad scope to me.

Looking back at the OP's previous threads this appears to.be the 3rd scope on this gun in the last few months with similar issues of either getting or staying zeroed. I suspect whomever is helping mount the scopes is challenged and/or you have something else going on with the rifle or mount/rings. Might also check your bipod and form as well.

MR WICK said:

I bought a new Venom and had it mounted by a different place.

Was way to windy today but tomorrow will be great.

Also bought this.

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I hope you get it figured out.

May I advise you to return that lead sled. Get a good bipod and rear bag, and dry fire to make certain that trigger control isn't your issue.

Always take a wind flag of some kind.

One poster above mentioned this already but check the bolt securing the action to the stock. These can come loose, which will mess with your zero all day long.

I have a Savage Stealth with a Vortex Viper scope. I couldn’t keep zero with that rifle/scope and it was really ticking me off. The scope was mounted and torqued properly and the first thing I checked. I noticed a little movement in the action as I was checking the scope mount purely by accident. Sure enough the action bolt had come loose. Tightened that up with lock tite and the rifle is rock solid now. Something for you to check.

Good luck.

On my cz , having the torque adjusted right makes a huge difference . I set both action screws to 40 inch lbs ,and it shoots 5/8 inch at 100 yds. Having it set at 30 lbs , then 40 on the front and 50 at the rear , both gave 1 1/2 groups ,with the same load. A torque driver is a good tool to have.

Rockrivr1 said:

One poster above mentioned this already but check the bolt securing the action to the stock. These can come loose, which will mess with your zero all day long.

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I know that I mentioned it and maybe others did too.

And yes proper action screw torque is important.I always start out at what the manufacturer recommends and then go up or down 1 inch pound at a time until I find the sweet spot for my rifle. Yes 1 or 2 inch pounds of torque cn make a difference. And normally you want all of the action screws torqued the same.

Interesting that we are so focused on mechanical issues and keep rehashing the same obvious stuff.

As an instructor and coach my obvious observation goes beyond the mechanical.

You say that you shoot a lot. Are you doing the same exact thing with each and every shot fired? As soon as I see groups opening up I look for shooter technique and shooter fatigue. Relaxing grip, cheek weld and pull into shoulder can each and all open groups!

Having a "card carrying Expert" shoot your rifle will tell a lot. Have the Expert watch you shoot, you'll thank me later!

Smiles,

MR WICK said:

I also shot over 250 rounds to get that proficient.

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If you don't find a mechanical issue with the scope, mounts, or the attachment of the metal to the stock, it might be worth checking the barrel for fouling, or just giving it a good cleaning.

You mentioned using a bipod. If that's the case you need to make sure the barrel is free floated. Having owned a 527 myself i can feel confident in saying your barrel is touching the stock. As you lean in to shoot, the bipod push's the stock up and that pushes the barrel up. Check your barrel contact by running a dollar bill between the barrel and stock. If it binds then you found your problem. I good free float is much more than the thickness of a dollar bill. Preferably a business card should be able to slide in between barrel and stock.

MR WICK said:

This is my second rifle. I have a Savage Arms 22lr. I can put every shot in the red up to 150 yards. My scope doesn't really see beyond that.

On my CZ 527, 223. I have a Harris 6-9 inch Notched Swivel Bipod, Tigris Shooting Rest Bag, and of course the brand new Vortex Venom.

The picture attached is from 200 yards before all the foul ups. I also shot over 250 rounds to get that proficient

We will see what happens today with the new scope and mount.

Thanks again everyone.

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That looks like a great start!

100 yards is a much easier place to figure out your issues. Everything is magnified at 200...position variation, trigger discipline, ammo issues, scope and mount movement, stock screw torque, etc. I hope you found your issue by replacing the scope.

MR WICK said:

I bought a new Venom and had it mounted by a different place.

Was way to windy today but tomorrow will be great.

Also bought this.

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Return the lead sled. Nothing good will come from this fraudulent device except bad habits and possible rifle and/or optic damage.

MR WICK said:

I have a Savage Arms 22lr. I can put every shot in the red up to 150 yards. My scope doesn't really see beyond that.

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This doesn’t smell right to me. I’ve been conflicted as to whether this series is trolling, or just a new shooter spiraling around and around as fast as they can and getting frustrated as they try to read latin. I’m still hoping for the latter.

Savage MkII’s are commonly very accurate rifles, but that claim just doesn’t hold water to me. On that target, holding all shots in the red means you’re reliably shooting a budget class, rack grade 22LR into 2/3moa at 150 yards, but then in the next breath, claim the scope won’t allow you to SEE to shoot past 150… one is a fantastical claim which makes me raise an eyebrow to its veracity, while the second simply cannot be true if the first IS, and frankly, just isn’t true in its own right, period…

But accepting the claim to be true, that on the same day, side by side, you can shoot this 223 and have it bouncing around, then shoot your 22 and stack spots under 1” at 150yrds, then you know you have a mechanical failing somewhere in the 223. Take the 15min to check torque on all action screws, mount screws, ring clamp, and ring cap screws. Shoot and see if the shifting behavior persists. If yes, then Take the 15min to swap scopes and rezero the scope from your 22LR onto the 223 in its mounts. If the shifting behavior persists, you know it’s not the optic, and you have something awry in the rifle. My bet is that it won’t persist beyond these first two levels of mechanical trouble shooting.

So you ARE using a 16mm to pic conversion rail!
I didn't know that.