Short arbor???

Calling @Jackrabbit1957 and @45 Dragoon

W/Vickers1938. here's a pretty good thread that references the short arbor. You can find several references to this on the website.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/uberti-vs-pietta-1851-navy.906980/

and another,
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/the-wedge-on-open-top-colts.896224/

W/Vickers1938 said:

Never having owned an open top BP revolver. What is defined as a short arbor, and why is it detrimental?
Thanks in advance
W/Vickers1938

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The arbor is the " backbone" of the open top revolver. It is the connecting piece for the barrel assembly and the wedge is employed to hold the two together. The cylinder is also supported by the arbor. In order for the cylinder to rotate, it can't be locked down by the barrel being pulled back against it. Therefore, the barrel assy is pulled back (under great tension by the wedge since the wedge is to be driven in) against the end of the arbor . . . which is why THAT is what defines the barrel/ cylinder clearance ( or endshake).
The original Colt revolvers were built accordingly but all the reproductions, since the originals, have been built with short arbors ( save for the Piettas of the last dozen or so yrs.).
The destruction part comes from the ability for the cylinder to act like a "slide hammer" and slam against the recoil ring (arresting surface for the cyl). This tends to destroy the wedge which increases the barrel/cylinder "endshake " which only gets worse, not better. The time-line for this type of thing depends totally on the "tolerance stack" of the particular revolver, powder charge used, bullet weight and usage.
A close endshake of .0025" - .003" seems to be enough to negate any problems.

Mike

45 Dragoon said:

The original Colt revolvers were built accordingly but all the reproductions, since the originals, have been built with short arbors.

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I thought this problem plagues Ubertis rather than Piettas.

But it's easily fixed by putting the requisite thickness of washers on the end of the arbor (either temporarily or permanently).

AlexanderA said:

I thought this problem plagues Ubertis rather than Piettas.

But it's easily fixed by putting the requisite thickness of washers on the end of the arbor (either temporarily or permanently).

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Yes, thanks for reminding me about the "current production" Piettas. ( I edited my post accordingly).

Mike

I am currently working on a more permanent fix than adding washers that can fall out and be lost. Will update everyone when I've done a few and see if its cost effective. I already know it works.

Jackrabbit1957 said:

I am currently working on a more permanent fix than adding washers that can fall out and be lost. Will update everyone when I've done a few and see if its cost effective. I already know it works.

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I just JB weld the washer in the arbor hole. Never had one come out.

I haven't had one come out either but I kinda like the idea of a more permanent fix. By the way I'm offering a $20 discount for my full on tune this month.

Jackrabbit1957 said:

I am currently working on a more permanent fix than adding washers that can fall out and be lost. Will update everyone when I've done a few and see if its cost effective. I already know it works.

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Soldering a shim to the end of the arbor should be permanent and cost effective. It could be dressed up to match the arbor and be unnoticeable.

Some one who does the "washer style" also drills a small vent hole hidden in to the ram channel and uses Gorilla 2 part epoxy to make it permanent. That way it is metal to metal and the epoxy doesn't take any of the load.

I solder a shim to the face of the arbor, then dress it down with a file to fit. There's quite a few ways to address the short arbor. This is just how I do it. There's no right or wrong way to do it.

However you do it, one of the most important features is the ability to have the same revolver and sight picture each time you assemble the revolver.
THAT is how important the arbor length is.

Mike

Jackrabbit1957 said:

I haven't had one come out either but I kinda like the idea of a more permanent fix. By the way I'm offering a $20 discount for my full on tune this month.

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I tried to incorporate a ring to be captured in a groove ( like a snap ring) to "contain" the single spacer but it was more headache than worth and didn't work so well, so I just stuck with JB. It's cheap, fast, and it's a tuff job drilling out a ss spacer held in with it!!! Lol

Mike

Jackrabbit1957 said:

I haven't had one come out either but I kinda like the idea of a more permanent fix. By the way I'm offering a $20 discount for my full on tune this month.

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do you have a website ?

Yes, it's a work in progress, Cochisemuzzleloaders.com.

Jackrabbit1957 said:

Cochisemuzzleloaders.com.

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Dang if I didn't see a pic with my work-in-progress 1860 in it. !!! Or one just like it with a piece of brazing rod for a front sight. Anyhow, Jack, if you need/want another testimonial let me know.