FITZ AMMO SAFE

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KY DAN

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I bought a large quantity of rifle caliber and 38 spl boxes a while back and I am really impressed with these despite 6 dollars a box.

They are bright red and made of a material that is not rubber or plastic.... it's playable and does not Crack. My cases are all from 1960s and 1970s according to seller and can be twisted and no harm befalls them.

They are slip top and as far as I can tell no one makes anything similar. I like that if I knock a loaded box off on the concrete floor of my basement nothing breaks or chips.

Does anyone think this might be a viable product to reintroduce into the market again?
 
If you or someone else wants to make them, I’m in for 9mm, 38spc, 357 Mag, 44 Mag, 45 ACP, and 300 Winmag.
 
I like the sound of it, but not enough to pay $6 apiece for them.

https://www.antiquesnavigator.com/d...-ammo-boxes-fitz-ammo-safe-4-nice-oldies.html

The above link is all I can find for a "Fitz Ammo Safe". They are NOS and haven't been made since at least the 70s from what I can track down. They are in fact plastic, just a soft thermoplastic from what I can tell.

For my money I would be (and am) much happier with MTM cases for 1/3 the price of these antiques.

I agree $6 is WAY too much, I buy them because I like them and unless something outside of my control occurs I plan to use them the rest of my life

I was kinda hoping a plastic plant owner might be on the forum and see this thread and think it was a marvelous product to manufacture. Lol
 
I agree $6 is WAY too much, I buy them because I like them and unless something outside of my control occurs I plan to use them the rest of my life

I was kinda hoping a plastic plant owner might be on the forum and see this thread and think it was a marvelous product to manufacture. Lol
With 3D printing as prevalent as it is, I would think it would be no big deal to make these. The only real hold up would be making the 3D file.

@Wreck-n-Crew
 
I have some of those that came from Herters many years ago. But most of my boxes are MTM. I should have bought MTM stock several years ago!
 
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With 3D printing as prevalent as it is, I would think it would be no big deal to make these. The only real hold up would be making the 3D file.

@Wreck-n-Crew

You are right.....I could make the files in about 30 minutes per each size, faster, once I got past the first one. What I don't have is measurements, and enough pictures to see the design clearly. If the OP can furnish that, I'll see what I can do.

However, if you go to Thingiverse.com and search under ammo boxes you will find many ammo box design files already done.....and the files free. But if this design is something special, it might be worth it to add to the files. ;)
 
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You are right.....I could make the files in about 30 minutes per each size, faster, once I got past the first one. What I don't have is measurements, and enough pictures to see the design clearly. If the OP can furnish that, I'll see what I can do.

However, if you go to Thingiverse.com and search under ammo boxes you will find many ammo box design files already done.....and the files free. But if this design is something special, it might be worth it to add to the files. ;)

I am more than happy to provide dimensions

I just love the material they are made from and how it has remained pliable and non brittle after 40-50 years.

I dropped a new BERRY brand box of 50 round 44 mag on my basement floor and it chipped and shattered. It's no longer usable, I think that is stupid

I have bo doubt whatever material these boxes are made from would make the ammo boxes expensive to make in the current times we live.
 
Well, if you were to buy a little 3d printer, an added plus is if you were to break one you could print another or two while you are at work, for 50 cents worth of plastic fillament each in a few hours.;)

If I were to guess, I'd say that your antiques are made of vinyl. Not a choice for 3d printing....yet.
 
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I'd say that your antiques are made of vinyl. Not a choice for 3d printing....yet.
No, but TPU is a flexible and printable plastic. With the right thickness and density of fill, it could mimic these.
Before my computer caught fire, and I continue to drag my feet replacing it and the desk, I used it to make snap in hinges for pencil boxes.
 
I have a 3D printer, if someone can help me get the .stl files. I could print them myself. Just curious about where to get the filament too….

Thanks for any/All help
Maybe it’s time to start thinking about 3-D printers and their supplies as “reloading gear”? Post links in the reloading components thread?
 
I have a 3D printer, if someone can help me get the .stl files. I could print them myself. Just curious about where to get the filament too….

Thanks for any/All help

One of the sources I use for filament is Zyltec in Houston. I love their Satin colors. https://www.zyltech.com/pla/
I also like Overture, their Satin colors and their Professional Pla colors......Overture PLA pro comes in Dillon Blue (not called that) and it's really good stuff. I don't personally use Dillon, or use the blue, but I do use "Pro" black and white. It's great filament....a bit stronger than regular PLA. https://overture3d.com/collections/all

BTW, my first trial print was a T-Rex skull from printed 150% oversized. Turned out awesome, made a fantastic Christmas gift for my grandson who loves anything dinosaur. Stl came free from Thingiverse. ;)

Thingiverse is a great source for .stl files. https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Ammo+boxes&page=1&type=things&sort=relevant But to copy the ones the OP has requires a cad file, then a conversion to a .stl file. I have supplied some, all right, but at cast boolits we have a huge thread for reloading collators, Lee APP mods, and bullet and case feed dies. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?329-3D-PRINTED-RELATED-ITEMS then go the the bullet collator thread and start from the end and search backward. (faster to find what you want than starting from post one.)

Here's an Example, feed dies! These pistol bullet feed dies are examples of "satin" colors. The dies work as good as DAA commercial ones. Only extra parts are the springs shown, and two ball bearings.
These are TylerR designed .stls from the CastBoolits bullet collator site. Free....You download .stls from the link at the bottom of any of TylerR's posts. See the link to the thread in the last post, then click the first post to get there.

IMG_3947.jpg

The green and blue are Zyltec satin PLA.....the red, Overture Satin PLA. The springs are from Neiko Assortment top left compartment. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50456A-Assortment-Compression-Extension/dp/B000K7M36W

Ball bearings.....https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SQZR62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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"Fitz" made a lot of plastic items for the firearms world. Ammo boxes, primer flippers, grips for handguns (at the time for most S&W revolvers, Government models, Ruger handguns...). Some hardwood grips as well, fit properly and fit my hand, too. I have some of the items, finding them at least useful. He died in the '60s or '70s as I recall. Seemingly no heirs wanted to carry on.

This gentleman should not be confused with John Henry FitzGerald
 
"Fitz" made a lot of plastic items for the firearms world. Ammo boxes, primer flippers, grips for handguns (at the time for most S&W revolvers, Government models, Ruger handguns...). Some hardwood grips as well, fit properly and fit my hand, too. I have some of the items, finding them at least useful. He died in the '60s or '70s as I recall. Seemingly no heirs wanted to carry on.

This gentleman should not be confused with John Henry FitzGerald

You are correct, I have a pair of square butt no dash model 36 smith's which sport identical fitz grips. They were wonderful products in their time

Paul "fitz" Jones was the latter manufacturer and from his own accounts got the entire company for returning a ring. I will say this as my experience with Paul "fitz" Jones subject's, you have too be extremely careful as Mr.Jones upsold himself considerably and lied ALOT and when called upon the carpet he would engage in mudd slinging.

If you research Paul and his claims they do not hold water. The guy was involved in alot of deals and he has laid his claim to being a Star machine works salesman and reconditioning center which has been refuted multiple times by the original generation of stars ownership and management in writing.

I have actually put together a collection of products and correspondence Paul fitz jones sold in his tenor.

Just proceed with caution with all claims
 
That's interesting and nothing of which I knew. I don't have any money in it anyway.
I did like the products and was sad to see it all go away. I was under the impression from another fellow he had died and no one took over.

Either story sounds sad at this point.
 
With 3D printing as prevalent as it is, I would think it would be no big deal to make these. The only real hold up would be making the 3D file.

@Wreck-n-Crew

If you have a 3D printer and can print with the right materials they would probably go for About $6 a piece of you were selling them. Kind of cost prohibitive considering what you make vs what it can do too.

IMO nylon would be the best material as it is semipliable and very impact resistant.

The most common 3d print materials like PlA, PETG, and ABS all have different shortcomings.

PLA is strong and stiff but can warp in a hot car and is not chemical resistant.

PETG is not quite as strong as PLA, a little more pliable, a little more heat resistant and it is chemical resistant.

ABS is weaker than both but is more heat resistant and not chemical resistant at All.

Nylon is stronger and more pliable, more heat resistant, and much more impact resistant than the above. But it's harder to print without warping and coming off the bed. You have to have a high temp hotend to be able to print with it and an enclosure is best.

There are also flixibles like TPU but you don't want them for something like that as they are too pliable.

There is also polycarbonate which is hard to print but pretty strong. Just not stronger than nylon but stiffer.

There are more filaments but they get expensive. Especially the Carbon fiber filled or glass filled filaments. The only thing they are good in is Nylon IMHO. When mixed right with nylon they make it stiffer and stronger. When the blend or percentage of carbon fiber is too much it makes Nylon less impact resistant and even brittle like glass.

Making a 3d file wouldn't be too hard for an experienced or semi-experirnced user. But there are at least 12 ( might be many more) different styles for free on many of the STL websites.

Personally I would just buy MTM case guard ammo boxes over printing them.

3d printing is evolving fast. Back when I got my printer it was a bunch of parts and I had to build it and wire it up. At that time many kits were much easier and we're mostly assembled but I wanted to know how they work and thought that would be the better way to learn. Lol

I have since then build a custom 3d printer from the ground up including compiling and installing software for it.

Now they have 3d printers that use a liquid resin. hey also have 3d printers for making metal parts. But those get expensive.

Sorry for so much info but I thought I would share some knowledge while I was here for anyone interested in 3d printing.
 
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