Rossi 92 357 for deer

How much can you get before leading becomes a problem?

I would think with good bullet fit, gas checks, and a good lube you could go all the way up to magnum levels without problems?

I would think that with a good fitting 160 gr bullet with a gas check, you could get upwards of 1700 fps with H110, 2400, or IMR 4227.

savagelover said:

I have no idea. I believe I have had 1500 fps with no leading. I guess I was under the assumption that with the cast bullets,there might be a certain mv one had to at least have. Appreciate the reply.

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A 160gn @ 1500fps should do it. I know for a fact a 158 at 1500 will.

A higher velocity will give you a flatter trajectory. I don't know how much power you need to bring down a deer though.

I would push the load up until you either hit max book, see pressure signs, or see accuracy fall off. A gas checked lubed bullet that fits the bore can usually be pushed to 2000 fps or close to it, so you will have to experiment.

Hodgdon data maxes out at 1382 fps with a 158-grain LSWC bullet in an 18.5” barrel. That’s well below the maximum pressure for jacketed bullets in the same cartridge, not sure why since their max data for a 240-grain LSWC out of a .44 Magnum carbine is around jacketed bullet pressures.

Not sure about 2000 fps with a .357 cast bullet if you care about SAAMI pressures, Hodgdon data maxes out at 1757 fps for a jacketed 158 grain bullet. Of course some folks believe that if the gun doesn’t blow up then the load is safe….



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What profile bullet did you cast? RN, HP, TC, RNFT .....

Higher the speed the better.

I would look at max loads (handgun) in my manuals, reduce by 10% and try some. Got a chrony? Are you wanting expansion from the lead bullet? From my research obtaining "killing" expansion from a lead bullet can be problematic (alloy, shape, sizing, etc.). I have reloaded for my Puma in 44 Magnum but never tried for expansion and chose bullet shape for performance on meat targets (Ranch Dog design RNFP GC) but never got a shot at Oregon deer...

mdi said:

I would look at max loads (handgun) in my manuals, reduce by 10% and try some. Got a chrony? Are you wanting expansion from the lead bullet? From my research obtaining "killing" expansion from a lead bullet can be problematic (alloy, shape, sizing, etc.). I have reloaded for my Puma in 44 Magnum but never tried for expansion and chose bullet shape for performance on meat targets (Ranch Dog design RNFP GC) but never got a shot at Oregon deer...

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A great big meplat is your friend. Even if you don't get expansion you will transfer lots of energy.

A few years ago I shot a doe at 80 yards with a 198 grain bullet doing around 1900 fps at the muzzle. Only a 308 cal bullet, but it had a .19 inch meplat. Made a good hit in the vitals and that was it. My alloy was about as hard as op's and I appear to have had expensive as the exit hole was nickel sized.

savagelover said:

Ok,my cast bullets are 160 with lube and gas checks. Bhn of 12. My goal is to hunt white tales basically within 60 or less yards. My question is what MV do you guys think I should be aiming for. The rifle shoots pretty decent at 50 yards. Like 2 to 3 inches with a red dot. So can you give me an idea of MV. Thanks.

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What powder do you plan on using? This will effect velocity goals more than anything.
My suggestion is H110. There are several others that come close to it though.
My 20"Rossi will push 180s into the 1900s without leading. But I'm running 360 DW loads.
I get 1870 with 158s and h110 at 357 seating depth.

Go for the accuracy at 1,500 fps over the higher-velocity of the 1,700 fps load. If you put your shot in the boiler room at 50-odd yards, you will have a freezer full of venison for your efforts.

Good luck, let us know how your hunting trip turns out.

Stay safe.

I'd probably give the 2400 a try.

savagelover said:

Why would you? Curious as to why thank you

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Lilgun is an oddball in 357. It burns very hot and that may be causing you issues with a lead bullet. 2400 however is practically made for what you are doing. I have had really good results with it in 357 and even used it for 3006 cast loads.

brewer12345 said:

Lilgun is an oddball in 357. It burns very hot and that may be causing you issues with a lead bullet. 2400 however is practically made for what you are doing. I have had really good results with it in 357 and even used it for 3006 cast loads.

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I agree. But I have had good results from lil gun also. I've had bad results as well though.
I always try a different powder if the other doesn't do what I want.

savagelover said:

There was no problem except accuracy when the velocity got high. My first 3 loads where pretty good.

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Note that down in your load book. Try 2400 and note it down. The better one is your best option.

savagelover said:

There was no problem except accuracy when the velocity got high. My first 3 loads where pretty good.

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Yeah, and you clearly have a good option for deer with lil gun. I'd still give it a try with 2400 to see if you can do better. You are using a rifle that is kind of marginal for deer, so I would want it to be all that it can be.

I fooled with lil gun and Sierra JSPs in a 24" Rossi a few years ago. I found that even the book max charges were very accurate. I didn't chronograph it as 357 isn't legal for deer in my state. Given that I could push jacketed bullets much harder with accuracy that you could with cast makes me suspect that the high heat of lil gun's combustion may be an issue.

Of 2400, H110, and IMR 4227, I have found 4227 to have the best accuracy in my 20” Henry. That said, others will find different results with various bullet/gun/barrel lengths. I’ve never used lil gun, so I can’t comment on that particular powder, but only you can determine what will work best with your particular gun and bullet.

Try some different powders if you have them to see which gives you the best velocity to accuracy ratio. Slow powders will work better for that, but some have been perfectly happy with powders like Unique or AutoComp.

Back off a little when you blow a hole in the primer with 2400. Or use a rifle primer.