Saw these at the pawn shop. Seems too good to be true

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You didn't say what gauge the press is. I have a Sizemaster 77 in 20 ga. I have loaded thousands of shells with it over the last 40 + years. Never broke any parts and it just keeps on going. From the pictures it looks like all the pieces are there. See if it has the 6 point and 8 point crimp starters. I think Mec still sells these presses but the last ones I saw were almost $300.
 
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Get the mec. Offer them less. Price of shot be damned! If you enjoy reloading and want to be able to load shotshells then go for it. Remember the last few years when they were hard to find?

what loads do you like to use for squirrels?
 
12Bravo20 said:
There is one major problem with your idea. You better make darn sure that NO molten lead hits the coolant. Molten metal and water soluble liquids do NOT mix at all. you will get an explosive reaction if any molten lead hits the coolant.
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Really? I saw multiple videos on line of guys dripping lead into buckets of antifreeze to make shot and nothing bad happened
 
Barbaroja said:
Get the mec. Offer them less. Price of shot be damned! If you enjoy reloading and want to be able to load shotshells then go for it. Remember the last few years when they were hard to find?

what loads do you like to use for squirrels?
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1 oz or 1 1/8th #6 preferably right around 1200 fps for 12 gauge that is. I mainly just reload because I enjoy it
 
Dogleg7 said:
You didn't not say what gauge the press is. I have a Sizemaster 77 in 20 ga. I have loaded thousands of shells with it over the last 40 + years. Never broke any parts and it just keeps on going. From the pictures it looks like all the pieces are there. See if it has the 6 point and 8 point crimp starters. I think Mec still sells these presses but the last ones I saw were almost $300.
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It's a 12 gauge press. I wish it was a 20 gauge because I've been hunting with that more often lately
 
Appalachiannative said:
Really? I saw multiple videos on line of guys dripping lead into buckets of antifreeze to make shot and nothing bad happened
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I've been around enough molten metal and melting pots to know that molten metal and liquids are very dangerous when mixed. I worked for a while in a small machine shop that repaired/recast babbitted bearing. Babbit has a melting point and pouring temp that is really close to pure lead. And again you don't want water or other liquids around the melting pots or when you are pouring molten metal.

But follow internet videos if you want, it is your safety that is on the line.
 
The MEC Sizemaster has parts available, if you need them. I have 5 and never have replaced a part.

I have a 155, awesome press. I prefer it over the MEC. A pawn shop find.

Look at them intently, point out AGE, WORN PARTS, MISSING PARTS. Make things up and offer $100 for both.

20 ga dies can be switched for 12. It is not fast or easy, but very doable. It is a one time deal. Not like you will be changing weekly.

Get them, you won't regret it.
 
12Bravo20 said:
I've been around enough molten metal and melting pots to know that molten metal and liquids are very dangerous when mixed. I worked for a while in a small machine shop that repaired/recast babbitted bearing. Babbit has a melting point and pouring temp that is really close to pure lead. And again you don't want water or other liquids around the melting pots or when you are pouring molten metal.

But follow internet videos if you want, it is your safety that is on the line.
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If that the case then how do they make lead shot? Manufactures often advertise "chilled shot". I know they are not taking the time to cast all those little lead balls. Based on what I've seen sifting threw all that "value shot" which is the stuff that got rejected from the factory and based on all the funky peanut and rat turd shaped pieces of lead I'm sure the process must surely involve dropping into liquid. Yes you've worked a machine shop but have you worked a lead shot factory?
 
12Bravo20 said:
I've been around enough molten metal and melting pots to know that molten metal and liquids are very dangerous when mixed. I worked for a while in a small machine shop that repaired/recast babbitted bearing. Babbit has a melting point and pouring temp that is really close to pure lead. And again you don't want water or other liquids around the melting pots or when you are pouring molten metal.

But follow internet videos if you want, it is your safety that is on the line.
Click to expand...
 
Well I won't argue with you and you are free to do what you want.

With that said, I have seen first hand what happened when either water hots molten metal or molten metal hits water. The reaction is quiet explosive due to water getting instantly turned into steam.

Now if the shot is actually cooled down enough so that it is in a slide form when it hits liquid, then there is way less of a chance for an explosion. But you better know exactly what you are doing. If any of the shot is still in a molten state when it hits liquid it will be explosive due to the liquid turning instantly into steam.

Again I have many years experience as a machinist working in shops that recast bearing along with making the molds used to cast aluminum and steel. Liquids and molten metal are a very dangerous combination.
 
12Bravo20 said:
Well I won't argue with you and you are free to do what you want.

With that said, I have seen first hand what happened when either water hots molten metal or molten metal hits water. The reaction is quiet explosive due to water getting instantly turned into steam.

Now if the shot is actually cooled down enough so that it is in a slide form when it hits liquid, then there is way less of a chance for an explosion. But you better know exactly what you are doing. If any of the shot is still in a molten state when it hits liquid it will be explosive due to the liquid turning instantly into steam.

Again I have many years experience as a machinist working in shops that recast bearing along with making the molds used to cast aluminum and steel. Liquids and molten metal are a very dangerous combination.
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So it sounds like the metal needs enough air time before it hits the liquid the cool down just enough to not be completely molten. Now I understand. Wasn't trying to argue just didn't know what you meant but now I get it I think. The whole thing is another one of my long way off possible future experiments anyway
 
Appalachiannative said:
So it sounds like the metal needs enough air time before it hits the liquid the cool down just enough to not be completely molten. Now I understand. Wasn't trying to argue just didn't know what you meant but now I get it I think. The whole thing is another one of my long way off possible future experiments anyway
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Correct, the shot needs to cool down enough so that it is no longer in a liquid/molten state before hitting any liquid used to cool it. The reason why there is an explosive reaction when molten metal hits liquids is that the metal will instantly vaporize the water/coolant into steam and send both extremely hot steam and the molten metal into the air.
 
The MEC, and Lachmiller machines don’t seem to hold much value but they do work ok. Get up to the 366, Spolar, Dillon machines and they do better at holding value but they are also better machines.
 
If you do wind up with the Hornady loader, and don't want it, I'll find a way to make you whole on it. May sound silly, but I've been wanting to start a working collection of these old loaders for historical purposes. That one can be made to work.
 
The dropping of lead to make perfect spheres is an ancent art they use shot towers to do it. They are 150 to 170 feet tall depending on the size shot thats made. You can make a lead shot that is usable with a 10-20 foot drop but it will not be perfectly round and your patterns will suffer. You need to google shot towers and learn about how this process is done and then decide how much quality you want to make your lead balls have. You at least have to get the lead to cool enough not to deform before it hits your vat of liquid. It's an interesting read.
 
It’s common practice in home shot making to use hydrolic oil, laundry detergent, antifreeze, fabric softener as a coolant.
 
I've never made shot, but I have cast a literal ton of bullets.

I have dropped every one in water because I don't trust myself to not pick up to examine a hot one (hot ones look exactly like cold ones ;))

I think you're on the right track with your plan: dropping molten lead, from a height into liquid is exactly how lead shot is and has been made forever.

Curious how it works out for you.

I think a more accurate statement would be not to get liquid into your melt, rather than your melt into your liquid (but I'm sure you already knew that :thumbup:)

I can tell you from experience, getting a drop of water on top of your melt will result in the drop of water sizzling and jumping around until its gone.

If that same drop of water would get under the surface, you're going to get a visit from the famous "Tinsel Fairy"!
 
A few years back, I melted down several hundred pounds of wheel weights. They had been stored in buckets and over time got wet from rain.

First batch, spent hours trying to dry things out. Took forever. Then figured out if wet wheel weights, trash, whatever were put into my dutch oven melting pot.....cold. Then heated.......as weights started to heat up, all water boiled off before lead got hot enough to melt. Never had so much as a teeny little hiss. But a drop of sweat off my brow fell on that melted lead one time and yikes!
 
FROGO207 said:
The dropping of lead to make perfect spheres is an ancent art they use shot towers to do it. They are 150 to 170 feet tall depending on the size shot thats made. You can make a lead shot that is usable with a 10-20 foot drop but it will not be perfectly round and your patterns will suffer. You need to google shot towers and learn about how this process is done and then decide how much quality you want to make your lead balls have. You at least have to get the lead to cool enough not to deform before it hits your vat of liquid. It's an interesting read.
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^^^^^^^^ THIS!
 
Appalachiannative said:
Really? I saw multiple videos on line of guys dripping lead into buckets of antifreeze to make shot and nothing bad happened
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A neighbor saw multiple videos of people using 2000VAC to burn fancy pictures onto wet boards. So he tried it. He electrocuted himself and was dead before he hit the floor.
 
There have been a number of consumer grade shot makers over the years.

You can get this one for $250 shipped.
https://www.oasisleadshotmaker.com/shop.html



I still have plans for one using MIG welding tips for the drippers…somewhere.

I am not a very big fan of molten lead and moisture though, I have seen a molten lead “volcano”, with lead reaching a 19 ft high ceiling, be careful out there.
 
rfwobbly said:
1. People are generally getting out of shotshell loading... not because of the power or primer shortage, but because of the cost of shot. Call around and check what shot is going to cost you before buying.
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Unless we are talking .410s... 410 shells are outrageous right now, if you can find them. They also dont use much shot or powder!
 
kalielkslayer said:
MEC used to sell a collet press. It was a stand alone unit. Simply put the hull in, pull the lever, it had 8 fingers that closed around the brass. Quick and easy.

I don’t know if it’s still offered, or the current cost. I think I paid $49 for mine 20-25 years ago. I think I saw it for sale in the last few years for $79.

If you have a ton of high brass, it pays for itself.

For me, I had a couple 1,000 Win Super Xs at the time. Now it sits dormant because I usually avoid high brass.
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It's called a Super Sizer, they are about $130 now.
It is required if the press is a MEC 650, there is no ring sizer or collet sizer on the 650. I use mine (came with my 650) even when loading on the 600jr.
 
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