My brother inherited this rifle from my grandpaw and it really needs some TLC. Rifle in question is a Kodiak Model 260 .22wmr, #13***. I really need to replace the bolt, springs, and a few other parts and would like to know if there is possibly some sort of breakdown guide or manual. Also, I haven't been able to find out too much about the manufacturer except that they were in business only a few years, so any info from that angle would also be greatly appreciated.
Kodiak 260
- Thread starter atf163
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Steven Mace
Member
atf163, here is some information on Kodiak rifles:
Previous manufacturer located in North Haven, CT circa 1963-66.
Kodiak Co. was in business for only a short time. They produced the first .22 Mag. semi-auto rifle (Model 260), as well as a centerfire bolt action (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson.
Reference - https://store.bluebookinc.com/download/Category.aspx?product=GUN&id=563
I would recommend visiting Numrich Gun Parts Corp. at the link below for replacement part.
http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=7380z260&MC=
Hope this helps!
Steve Mace
Previous manufacturer located in North Haven, CT circa 1963-66.
Kodiak Co. was in business for only a short time. They produced the first .22 Mag. semi-auto rifle (Model 260), as well as a centerfire bolt action (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson.
Reference - https://store.bluebookinc.com/download/Category.aspx?product=GUN&id=563
I would recommend visiting Numrich Gun Parts Corp. at the link below for replacement part.
http://www.e-gunparts.com/products.asp?chrMasterModel=7380z260&MC=
Hope this helps!
Steve Mace
Thanks for the info Steven Mace, but something is still bothering me. Of all the photos of the rifle I've scrounged up, not one shows the same type bolt as my brothers. On my brothers rifle the charging handle was made of plastic and attached directly to the right side of the bolt with the proper cut in the reciever to cycle the action; the plastic handle has long since broken off and needs to be replaced. Anyway, in the other photos I've seen, and the only rifle I've seen on Gunbroker, the charging handle is on the left side of the rifle forward of the reciever and was made of metal. Could my brother's rifle be an earlier production model, and if so is Numrich the only place known to still sell parts for this particular firearm?
http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=64239342
http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=64239342
SDC
Member
Have you disassembled your brother's rifle at all? It's conceivable that it originally had the cocking-handle on the left side, but that it broke early on, and, rather than try to find a fairly rare part, it was modified to a bolt-mounted cocking-handle. If nothing else, the stock should show a slot where the left-side cocking-handle SHOULD have gone. 
Cocking Handle
I have the same Kodiak 260 - 22mag with the cocking handle as part of the bolt with the reciever machined for it. Just for grins I checked the left side of the forearm stock and there never has been anything modified. I don't know what any of this means other than the fact that our rifles have not been altered.
If you ever do find any information, drawings or schematics please let us know because I inherited mine also and got nothing with it except a half box of bullets. It is a good shooter WHEN it does fire. The trigger has a problem and is intermittent. I never know if it will fire or not because sometimes the trigger feels like the safety is on and won't move at all.
If you would like to see what it looks like, I can take a picture of the receiver with the cocking handle and try to post it on here for you.
Regards,
SgtMaj
I have the same Kodiak 260 - 22mag with the cocking handle as part of the bolt with the reciever machined for it. Just for grins I checked the left side of the forearm stock and there never has been anything modified. I don't know what any of this means other than the fact that our rifles have not been altered.
If you ever do find any information, drawings or schematics please let us know because I inherited mine also and got nothing with it except a half box of bullets. It is a good shooter WHEN it does fire. The trigger has a problem and is intermittent. I never know if it will fire or not because sometimes the trigger feels like the safety is on and won't move at all.
If you would like to see what it looks like, I can take a picture of the receiver with the cocking handle and try to post it on here for you.
Regards,
SgtMaj
I've disassembled and cleaned the rifle before when my brother wanted me to look at it. The rifle is original, no modified/missing parts, just plain worn out and in need of repair. I've left a couple of messages over at Numrich about their parts but no response yet. Also, I talked to my uncle and it turns out that Grandpa bought the rifle new in about '65 and it was used fairly often without any problems.
SgtMaj, does your rifle's bolt handle also have a recoil spring and guide rod attached to it? I've never seen my brother's rifle with rod or recoil spring attached to the bolt.
See link...
http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=174770&chrSuperSKU=&MC=
See link...
http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=174770&chrSuperSKU=&MC=
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MGB
Member
Gents,
Some of this you have already heard, but........
I have found out a bit about this Kodiak 260. First off it was made some time between 1963 & 1966. It is stamped KODIAK, North Haven, Conn. USA Model 260 .22 WMR. No S/N. The butt plate has four circles like a target. It is tube fed and it is the first semi-auto 22 magnum. Kodiak made this in a 22 LR too, and also made a centerfire bolt action rifle (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, that does not necessarily mean valuable (yet). Collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson. Colt sold the 22 version under the name Colteer. Some of the Colteer parts work on the Kodiak magnum.
I found that info about Colt selling them a bit humorous as during this same time period Winchester made a 200 series of tubular magazine .22lr & ,22 WMR's. The 22lr's were 250 lever action, 270 slide action, & 290 semi-auto. The 22 WMR's were 255, & 275, no 295 semi-auto. This Kodiak is very similar to these in style and makes a nice fit if you had a collection of them.
There were two styles for operating the bolt on these. One has a knob on the left side of the barrel similar to my old Winchester 22. The other has the cocking handle on the right side of the bolt similar to the Ruger 10/22. On the 22 magnum there is no spring on top of the bolt. The return / action spring is located in front of the receiver under the barrel and the magazine tube works as a guide rod for it. On the 22 LR version (Colt Colteer) there is a bolt return spring on top of the bolt connected to the cocking handle very similar to the Ruger 10/22. Some of the cocking handles are black nylon some are metal. I have one of each. I do not have one of the left side cockers, but I have emailed a fellow that does. Numrich has in their Colteer section both styles of cocking handles w/ & w/o spring attached. I have been told that the one without a spring is the one that works on the Kodiak 260.
The following is info for my Kodiak:
To disassemble the Kodiak I start by removing the magazine tube plunger by sliding it all the way out.
Open the bolt and make sure it is clear then just leave it cocked.
Turn it over and remove the screw on the bottom and in front of the trigger guard. Then remove the trigger assembly housing from the bottom of the receiver.
Remove the screw on the bottom of the forend and slide the forend forward. Just as it clears the counter weight, you can lift it off.
Now remove the small magazine tube retaining screw from the magazine tube bracket.
Remove the magazine tube by sliding it forward away from receiver through the forend retaining bracket, action spring (remove the spring), and the counter weight.
Slide the counter weight, action bars, and bolt all the way to the rear, and just lift out the assembly.(sliding the bolt rearward, and out, etc.)
The cocking handle should just drop out from the top of the bolt then move it forward and remove it through the ejection port.
Remove the ejector plate from the side of the receiver.
To remove the stock remove the butt plate and the stock bolt beneath it.
Well that about sums up everything I know about this rifle. I can't wait to actually see how it shoots, and what particular type / brand of ammo it likes (hope it’s the cheap stuff).
Regards,
MGB
Some of this you have already heard, but........
I have found out a bit about this Kodiak 260. First off it was made some time between 1963 & 1966. It is stamped KODIAK, North Haven, Conn. USA Model 260 .22 WMR. No S/N. The butt plate has four circles like a target. It is tube fed and it is the first semi-auto 22 magnum. Kodiak made this in a 22 LR too, and also made a centerfire bolt action rifle (Model 158 Deluxe), and a slide action shotgun (Model 458). While Kodiak long guns are rare and extremely well made, that does not necessarily mean valuable (yet). Collectability to date has been minimal with most specimens selling at a slight premium over similar quality trade name counterparts of that era. Prior to 1963, Kodiak firearms were marketed under the trade name of Jefferson. Colt sold the 22 version under the name Colteer. Some of the Colteer parts work on the Kodiak magnum.
I found that info about Colt selling them a bit humorous as during this same time period Winchester made a 200 series of tubular magazine .22lr & ,22 WMR's. The 22lr's were 250 lever action, 270 slide action, & 290 semi-auto. The 22 WMR's were 255, & 275, no 295 semi-auto. This Kodiak is very similar to these in style and makes a nice fit if you had a collection of them.
There were two styles for operating the bolt on these. One has a knob on the left side of the barrel similar to my old Winchester 22. The other has the cocking handle on the right side of the bolt similar to the Ruger 10/22. On the 22 magnum there is no spring on top of the bolt. The return / action spring is located in front of the receiver under the barrel and the magazine tube works as a guide rod for it. On the 22 LR version (Colt Colteer) there is a bolt return spring on top of the bolt connected to the cocking handle very similar to the Ruger 10/22. Some of the cocking handles are black nylon some are metal. I have one of each. I do not have one of the left side cockers, but I have emailed a fellow that does. Numrich has in their Colteer section both styles of cocking handles w/ & w/o spring attached. I have been told that the one without a spring is the one that works on the Kodiak 260.
The following is info for my Kodiak:
To disassemble the Kodiak I start by removing the magazine tube plunger by sliding it all the way out.
Open the bolt and make sure it is clear then just leave it cocked.
Turn it over and remove the screw on the bottom and in front of the trigger guard. Then remove the trigger assembly housing from the bottom of the receiver.
Remove the screw on the bottom of the forend and slide the forend forward. Just as it clears the counter weight, you can lift it off.
Now remove the small magazine tube retaining screw from the magazine tube bracket.
Remove the magazine tube by sliding it forward away from receiver through the forend retaining bracket, action spring (remove the spring), and the counter weight.
Slide the counter weight, action bars, and bolt all the way to the rear, and just lift out the assembly.(sliding the bolt rearward, and out, etc.)
The cocking handle should just drop out from the top of the bolt then move it forward and remove it through the ejection port.
Remove the ejector plate from the side of the receiver.
To remove the stock remove the butt plate and the stock bolt beneath it.
Well that about sums up everything I know about this rifle. I can't wait to actually see how it shoots, and what particular type / brand of ammo it likes (hope it’s the cheap stuff).
Regards,
MGB
Attachments
MGB
Member
Your Welcome it's my pleasure.
BY the way atf163, why do you think you need to replace the bolt? I only ask this because it seems like a rare thing to really need to do that. I think it is available but remember if it is from another year of manufactur it just may need some adjustment to fit right. I'd avoid replacing a bolt unless absolutely necessary. Always better to rebuild the one you have IMHO. Like I mentioned I have two of these and one is in darn near new condition and one needs a bit-o-work. That one shoots, but had some light hits and didn't fire. It ejected ok, but on one post I read someone said these 260's lose their extractors occasionally. I had that happen to me with a 10/22 once. There I was all sighted in on this big sage rat in eastern orygun, and click..... What the heck I look and all I see is the ejector spring hanging out of the bolt. Fortunately for the rest of the trip I had an old Winchester with me. If you don't have spare parts at least have a spare gun . Since then you better believe I have an extra spring, plunger, & extractor in my go box.
When I had this apart it looked like the hammer spring was rubbing hard against the sides of the receiver and were worn down a bit. This could be part of the cause of the light hits. Also I could just feel a worn area on the back of the firing pin. A little bit in this area can cause light hits. I had that happen with a 10/22 where everything looked fine and yet it had light hits. I replaced the firing pin and that solved it. Bottom line here is I have ordered several parts to deal with mu issues and ward off some that may come up. After all this is a present for my Marine when he gets home .
One part I need and cannot find is a mag tube retaining screw. I just happen to have a friend that has a fastener supply business and we are working on an answer to that. He gave me a 4-40 screw that I tried and it is small but the right size to go all the way through. Then he gave em a 5-44 screw that I am going to grind down all but a couple of turns by the head. Then rethread the rest of the shank to 4-40 and see how that does.
Here is my list of rebuild parts from Numrich some I need and some are just to have on hand:
firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, extractor - spring - plunger, hammer spring, hammer spring pin, throat assembly, trigger assembly, trigger bushing (2), sear, & Colteer nylon bolt handle w/o spring.
I also got a new butt plate, but instead of getting the Kodiak one with the circles on it they sent me a Colteer one with the Colt logo on it. If they don't have the right one I may use it an put the other one away.
There are many more parts available but I was only looking to replace the ware parts. Things like pins unless something is moving on them don't need to be replaced, neither do some springs if they don't reside under stress IMO. It all depends on the function and stress on parts. Inspection is the best test as to wether a part needs replacing. Two thoughts on that are if it works don't mess with it, and If it ain't broke fixit until it is
My 2 cents
BY the way atf163, why do you think you need to replace the bolt? I only ask this because it seems like a rare thing to really need to do that. I think it is available but remember if it is from another year of manufactur it just may need some adjustment to fit right. I'd avoid replacing a bolt unless absolutely necessary. Always better to rebuild the one you have IMHO. Like I mentioned I have two of these and one is in darn near new condition and one needs a bit-o-work. That one shoots, but had some light hits and didn't fire. It ejected ok, but on one post I read someone said these 260's lose their extractors occasionally. I had that happen to me with a 10/22 once. There I was all sighted in on this big sage rat in eastern orygun, and click..... What the heck I look and all I see is the ejector spring hanging out of the bolt. Fortunately for the rest of the trip I had an old Winchester with me. If you don't have spare parts at least have a spare gun
. Since then you better believe I have an extra spring, plunger, & extractor in my go box. When I had this apart it looked like the hammer spring was rubbing hard against the sides of the receiver and were worn down a bit. This could be part of the cause of the light hits. Also I could just feel a worn area on the back of the firing pin. A little bit in this area can cause light hits. I had that happen with a 10/22 where everything looked fine and yet it had light hits. I replaced the firing pin and that solved it. Bottom line here is I have ordered several parts to deal with mu issues and ward off some that may come up. After all this is a present for my Marine when he gets home
. One part I need and cannot find is a mag tube retaining screw. I just happen to have a friend that has a fastener supply business and we are working on an answer to that. He gave me a 4-40 screw that I tried and it is small but the right size to go all the way through. Then he gave em a 5-44 screw that I am going to grind down all but a couple of turns by the head. Then rethread the rest of the shank to 4-40 and see how that does.
Here is my list of rebuild parts from Numrich some I need and some are just to have on hand:
firing pin, firing pin retaining pin, extractor - spring - plunger, hammer spring, hammer spring pin, throat assembly, trigger assembly, trigger bushing (2), sear, & Colteer nylon bolt handle w/o spring.
I also got a new butt plate, but instead of getting the Kodiak one with the circles on it they sent me a Colteer one with the Colt logo on it. If they don't have the right one I may use it an put the other one away.
There are many more parts available but I was only looking to replace the ware parts. Things like pins unless something is moving on them don't need to be replaced, neither do some springs if they don't reside under stress IMO. It all depends on the function and stress on parts. Inspection is the best test as to wether a part needs replacing. Two thoughts on that are if it works don't mess with it, and If it ain't broke fixit until it is
My 2 cents
MGB
Member
Well I am getting smarter about this rifle. Last night I replaced the firing pin and hammer spring to cure the problem I had with the light hits. That fixed the problem. After disassembling the trigger assembly and putting it back together one gets smarter about things. There is this little spring under the trigger that pops out when you remove the hammer spring pin. The easy way to get it back in place is to remove the trigger and hammer then install the hammer spring and the trigger return spring on the hammer spring pin. Then install the trigger and hammer. Just to check that I had the problem resolved I pulled the bullets from a few rounds dumped out the powder and popped the primers. Got really stong hits on all of them.
Another thing I noticed was one of my 260's has this forend retainer at the front of the indside hollowed out area where it goes over the magazine tube. This supports and retains the front of the forend as it has a hole the magazine tube goes through. Guess I'll have to make one for the missing one. I thought it was strange that I could tighten the forend screw on one but if I did that on the other it would rub on the bolt counter weight.
I am sure I'll have more revelations as I continue to tinker with this toy.
Regards,
MGB
Another thing I noticed was one of my 260's has this forend retainer at the front of the indside hollowed out area where it goes over the magazine tube. This supports and retains the front of the forend as it has a hole the magazine tube goes through. Guess I'll have to make one for the missing one. I thought it was strange that I could tighten the forend screw on one but if I did that on the other it would rub on the bolt counter weight.
I am sure I'll have more revelations as I continue to tinker with this toy.
Regards,
MGB
MGB
Member
Your welcome, I think given the limited info on these it is improtant to get posted as much about them as possible, for the next guy like us that has been hunting all over and finding nothing.
GO BEARRRRRS, and todays my birthday I wonder how my wife got them to play the Superbowl today for just me??????
I tell ya she's a keeper
GO BEARRRRRS, and todays my birthday
I wonder how my wife got them to play the Superbowl today for just me?????? I tell ya she's a keeper
Hey MGB,
I have a Kodiak 260 with the left side bolt. Thanks for the history info and the disassembly instructions. I might add that the forearm on mine won't detach completly until you slide the tube magazine past the wood hole in the front of the forearm. Also, be careful when cleaning the trigger assembly, as there are two little springs (one on each side) in the aft portion that can pop out when hit with a toothbrush.
It was given to me about 10 years ago, and was taken well care of, as I don't see a single spot of rust.
A word of caution should anyone try to shoot 22 LR in this rifle. It will fire, but probably won't eject the shell casing, AND the next one in the chamber will most likely not feed correctly, causing a jam in the magazine well. (Sound like the voice of experience??
I have a Kodiak 260 with the left side bolt. Thanks for the history info and the disassembly instructions. I might add that the forearm on mine won't detach completly until you slide the tube magazine past the wood hole in the front of the forearm. Also, be careful when cleaning the trigger assembly, as there are two little springs (one on each side) in the aft portion that can pop out when hit with a toothbrush.
It was given to me about 10 years ago, and was taken well care of, as I don't see a single spot of rust.
A word of caution should anyone try to shoot 22 LR in this rifle. It will fire, but probably won't eject the shell casing, AND the next one in the chamber will most likely not feed correctly, causing a jam in the magazine well. (Sound like the voice of experience??
MGB
Member
Your comments are correct. There are some slight variations with this rifle, and those little springs usually only get out of position, depends on how hard you are scrubbing I'd guess. LOL
There is a great difference between 22lr and 22wmr starting with the diameter of the round. It does not surprise me that it would not eject since it was fire formed to the chamber by the expansion in the larger hole, and smaller rim for the extractor to grab. Then there is the bullet that went rattling down the barrel to who knows where. Just not a good idea at all.
Other than that it is a fun gun to shoot, just do it safely:
THESE ARE 22 MAGNUM ONLY NO ONE SHOULD SHOOT ANY OTHER ROUND IN THEM! that's a good way to get hurt.
MGB
There is a great difference between 22lr and 22wmr starting with the diameter of the round. It does not surprise me that it would not eject since it was fire formed to the chamber by the expansion in the larger hole, and smaller rim for the extractor to grab. Then there is the bullet that went rattling down the barrel to who knows where. Just not a good idea at all.
Other than that it is a fun gun to shoot, just do it safely:
THESE ARE 22 MAGNUM ONLY NO ONE SHOULD SHOOT ANY OTHER ROUND IN THEM! that's a good way to get hurt.
MGB
thefrosted1
Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2009
- Messages
- 1
Thanks to MGB
I recently came into possession of a Kodiak model 260 .22 WMR. I did manage to put some rounds through it, and noticed that I had some extraction problems. It finally jammed and I took it back to my shop and started dis- assembly of the weapon and found that it still had two rounds in the magazine tube. Thanks to you, I think I will be able to put it back into proper operating order. God Bless America
I recently came into possession of a Kodiak model 260 .22 WMR. I did manage to put some rounds through it, and noticed that I had some extraction problems. It finally jammed and I took it back to my shop and started dis- assembly of the weapon and found that it still had two rounds in the magazine tube. Thanks to you, I think I will be able to put it back into proper operating order. God Bless America
MGB
Member
Your welcome this is a fun gun to shoot and if you need any further info I'll be here to help if I can.
BTW to complement this rifle I now also carry an AMT Automag II. It is a perfect match since it is the first 22 mag semiauto pistol.
Regards,
MGB
BTW to complement this rifle I now also carry an AMT Automag II. It is a perfect match since it is the first 22 mag semiauto pistol.
Regards,
MGB
Your disassembly instructions for the Kodiak 260 were very helpful. However the one that I am working on has the left side cocking handle instead of the of right side cocking handle. Do you have or know of anyone that has the disassembly instructions for this model? The forearm will not slide far enough forward to clear the counter weight. Any help would be appriciated.
MGB
Member
I'm sorry I do not have that information. Have you done a google search? I didn't find much info either I just figured most of it out.
One thing that I came across is that when removing the forend on one of mine it can be a bit tough as that plastic retainer can get hung up in the wood. Is there any chance that is what is happening to yours?
Can you post pics of it? What do you think it is getting hung up on?
Regards,
MGB
One thing that I came across is that when removing the forend on one of mine it can be a bit tough as that plastic retainer can get hung up in the wood. Is there any chance that is what is happening to yours?
Can you post pics of it? What do you think it is getting hung up on?
Regards,
MGB
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Evididently that was the problem with the forend. I managed to get it disassembled, cleaned it and put back together and it functions as it should except for the firing pin. I have ordered a new one from Numrich GPC. I searched Google without luck and checked all my books on Assembly/Disassembly with the same results. Haven't taken any photos but will if you want them and I can figure out how to post them. Disassembly instructions and drawings are no longer needed.
Thanks for your response to my request.
Bill Pitts ([email protected])
MGB
Member
Bill,
by all means please post them or email them to me and I will post them. This is important info for other with your style of 260.
Regards,
MGB
by all means please post them or email them to me and I will post them. This is important info for other with your style of 260.
Regards,
MGB
I will get some photos taken tomorrow and email them to you. Will need your email address. My email address is [email protected]. I am new to the forum and have not figured out all the in's & out's of how to include photos, but I am working on it.
WCP1
MGB
Member
MGB
Member
Pics from WCP1
"The disassembly instructions are the same as you have written for the right handle model except for the bolt guide. The bolt handle is permanently attached to the counter weight bar."
Thanks for your info Bill I'm sure this will be a help to others.
Regards,
MGB
"The disassembly instructions are the same as you have written for the right handle model except for the bolt guide. The bolt handle is permanently attached to the counter weight bar."
Thanks for your info Bill I'm sure this will be a help to others.
Regards,
MGB
MGB
Member
From WCP1
"Forgot to mention that the barrel is only screwed in hand tight and can be easily unscrewed from the receiver should you find it necessary to separate it from the receiver."
That might seem to be conveinent, but it is dangerious, as a loose barrel can change the head spacing and cause an accident. I made up a spanner wrench from I think it was a 17mm opened end wrench. Which ever one that fit the barrel best. Then tighened the barrel nut real good. Any tools you may need for working on this gun will most likely need to be made or pay way too much for them if one could find them.
Be smart be safe! KYPD
My 2 cents,
MGB
"Forgot to mention that the barrel is only screwed in hand tight and can be easily unscrewed from the receiver should you find it necessary to separate it from the receiver."
That might seem to be conveinent, but it is dangerious, as a loose barrel can change the head spacing and cause an accident. I made up a spanner wrench from I think it was a 17mm opened end wrench. Which ever one that fit the barrel best. Then tighened the barrel nut real good. Any tools you may need for working on this gun will most likely need to be made or pay way too much for them if one could find them.
Be smart be safe! KYPD
My 2 cents,
MGB
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