Using moly coat powder.

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AZPaul

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Good morning all.
Is there any online instructions on how to use this stuff?
 
You are about to get bombarded with comments about how it will rot your barrel and get all over your carpet, kids, cat, wife…

But the method I use is to take an old plastic peanut butter jar (clean and dry) dump your bullets in it and add about ¼ teaspoon of moly into it. May need to use more the first time as you will be coating the jar also. Throw it in your tumbler for about ½ hour (look to see what direction the jar rolls in the tumbler and make sure it rolls in a direction to tighten the lid as the other way may open the jar after a few mins). Then grab an old towel (check with the wife to be sure it is old) and dump your bullets in the towel and roll them around to remove excess moly. Load shoot and enjoy.
~z
 
Will it still rotate with the middle shaft in you tumbler and how do you separated the unused powder from the bullets?
 
I once had a Lyman kit for a week that used ceramic media. Bullets looked like black mirrors (+) that left black spider webs in the barrel (-). Oh well, you live and learn.
 
Instead of trying to coat your own, you might want to try Bear Creek in Ca. They sell moly coated bullets which are top notch, and the price is very reasonable. been using them for several years (3-4) and have been very happy with their performance. They do not have a web page, but you can reach them at:209-874-4322. Good Luck in your quest.
 
Instead of trying to coat your own, you might want to try Bear Creek in Ca
Completely different animal.

Benchresters tried and gave up on moly coated bullets. If they were more accurate they would have stuck with them. They do have some uses, but none outweigh the trouble for me.

I thought instructions came with the kits.


Here is a Google "How to moly coat bullets" link
 
As ~Z mentioned earlier, use a small, plastic jar in a vibratory tumbler. I would suggest that you tape the lid shut to be on the safe side. Also, I have found better results when I have tumbled a bit longer. I recommend you tumbling for at least an hour, maybe two. If you do not have a vibratory tumbler, I think a rotary one should work. Again, you may need to tumble a little bit longer.

I lay a paper towel on top of an old bath towel. Pour the bullets out on the paper towel and then slide them over to the bath towel. You should have a fair amount of unused moly powder on the paper towel that you can return back to the plastic jar for another run.

Its a pretty simple process and I think you will like the results.
 
I have about 3000 bear creek in my cabinet right now, mostly 200gr 40s and 45s but I'm getting low on .180 gr 40s.
I have tons of lead and a mold, I figured I wanted to make my own.
 
Like I posted earlier, a whole nother animal. You can't make the coating that Bear creek does with moly powder.
 
Checking back thru posts here and elsewhere, you'll find about as many questions about how to get moly off as how to get it on. Does that tell you something?
 
A friend of mine gave me a couple table spoons of it to try, so I have no instructions.
 
I use moly in all of my stainless barrels and I have found old air rifle pellet tins to work well. For .224 bullets I put 50 in a tin with a small amount of moly (it takes a lot less than you would think) and wrap the edge with masking tape. I throw four tins at a time into the tumbler and let them go for a couple of hours. A final tumble in a rag and they are ready to use. Use it if you like it, ignore everyone else.

epmn
 
when doing the moly thing be sure to do it over a nice carpet,or better yet, in bed.
 
I tried it too. My best results were when using a 500 count ibuprofen pill bottle, some moly,(about a teaspoon full), then about 100 steel BB shot. I put this in my midway tumbler with cases being tumbled or just with bare media. A couple hours was all that was needed, "plate" the bullets with moly. Not using the steel BB, the moly would easily rub off.

I saw no increase in accuracy, no decrease in cleaning frequency, so I quit doing it.

Once you use moly in a rifle barrel, you will play he** getting it all out.
 
Google Plate+.

Springco sells the stuff reasonably cheap.

They also have the posted test data there. Moly bullets, moly disulphide treated barrel, both.

Moly coating bullets will reduce fouling.

Treating your barrel with moly disulphide will do the same thing and give you an increase in velocity.

The only thing you should be aware of is this. If you treat chromoly steel with moly disulphide it will pit in the presence of moisture. Stainless has no problem.

I live in Colorado so moisture is a non issue here. But many other places it is a problem.
 
Treating your barrel with moly disulphide will do the same thing and give you an increase in velocity.
It will decrease velocity with the same powder weight by decreasing pressure. You can get more velocity because you can use more powder to get back up to the same pressure, basically.
 
I tried it too. My best results were when using a 500 count ibuprofen pill bottle, some moly,(about a teaspoon full), then about 100 steel BB shot. I put this in my midway tumbler with cases being tumbled or just with bare media. A couple hours was all that was needed, "plate" the bullets with moly. Not using the steel BB, the moly would easily rub off.

I saw no increase in accuracy, no decrease in cleaning frequency, so I quit doing it.

Once you use moly in a rifle barrel, you will play he** getting it all out.

This is with lead bullets right?
Where do I get steel BBs and do you place the container on-top of your normal bullet cleaning media?
 
This is with lead bullets right?
Where do I get steel BBs and do you place the container on-top of your normal bullet cleaning media?

No. It was with jacketed. I can see no advantage to moly coating lead bullets, you would still need some kind of grease/wax lube. Mirror lube was sold for a while back in the 70's that was a moly/grease lube for lubrisizers. it worked but made a mess if it was allowed to melt.

Another product was a liquid lube that simply was a paint. It was laced heavily with moly. It was used alone, no grease/wax type of carrier. Can't remember the name, but applying it was hazardous, the solvents would get you drunk! The reasoning was a tough coating would withstand the pressure of firing, preventing leading, it didn't work!

As for the steel BB's I also load steel shotshells, so I had a supply of them. Yes, the pill bottle would "float" on top of the tumbler media.
 
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