Marlin papoose accuracy

I shoot one at 25 yards with a 4x scope and have found it to be extremely accurate, and extremely reliable I should add.

The fact that it's stainless steel and a take-down is is just icing on the cake.

I shoot at 25 yds also and have found it to be just as accurate as my marlin 60 & taurus M63 with open sights. It is definatly more accurate than a ruger mk 1 I used to own and the browning buckmark i now own that replaced the ruger.

The papoose a small gun to be sure and the mini foreend of the stock takes some getting used too. I found that my best results come using it with a walmart mono pod ( 10$ item )

I picked up the gun as a backpack/bugout gun but found an unexpected bonus is that my wife, who generally hates guns, actually really likes it because it is so light and small it is the perfect size for her. I have also heard the gun makes a great youth rifle for the same reason.

A final note, if the ability to takedown the gun into a small package is not important you, consider the Marlin Model 70, its almost the same gun only full sized and cost about 1/3 that of the papoose.

... Or the Model 795. So far it's treated me well.

I second the above opinions. I have owned a Papoose for many years and have run 1000's of rds through it. I have also used it to introduce many people, including my wife, to shooting.
At 25 yds it is easy to get dime size groups offhand; 50 yds opens the offhand groups to quarter size; both with iron sights.
10 years ago, I took off the scope and went back to open sights in order to put back some of the fun. Earlier this year I put the scope back on (an inexpensive Simmons zoom) and the zero was right on. Also, after reading Boston T. Party's Gun Bible's reference about the Papoose's use as a bedroom gun, I moved it into the closet nearest our bed.

That was with open sights. I plan to scope it one of these days just to lazy to get around to that so far.

The other night on a shooting show called "impossible shots" i saw Jerry Miculek pop a balloon at 100 yds with one of those keychain sized NAA revolvers! My point being I believe accuracy on a 22 is more a matter of the shooter than the length of the barrel. Longer barrels allow more pressure to build to a certain extent so barrel length affects the power of the gun, not the accuracy, directly at least.

Longer barrels do offer a longer sight radious(sp) the longer the barrel the easier it is for the mk1 eyeball to line things up.

My guess is that with a good scope and proper shooting technique the papoose is easilly just as accurate as any other 22 in its price range, IMHO.

As long as the barrel is snug, they have the reputation of being surprisingly accurate (especially for people who buy one as an alternative to a pistol for a trail gun).
In the Marlin product line, the current Model 795 is what us oldtimers knew as the Model 70. (I Think consumers were being confused by M70 and M70P.) Making the M70P Papoose a takedown version accoiunts for the difference in the price of the two. The Papoose is probably a better choice for a backpacking gun than an AR-7 (and I own an Armalite AR-7 which suits me fine, but I recognize a better gun.)

This is from 50 yards. I got my Pappoose used for $112......how can you go wrong? Shot it with a Red Dot. Later, put an old scope on it. Great rifle. Have since adjusted the iron sights, too.

Readyrod said:

Can anyone tell me how tough the papoose is? I'm thinking that the breakdown thing means it's easier to keep it in a protected place but can the gun take a little punishment or is it a little fragile?

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The gun feels light, but not fragile. I've never subjected it to one of those lunatic Youtube trashings, but like every Marlin, I'm sure it will hold up just fine.

It was the first gun I ever fired as a child. My family had one and we went YEARS between cleanings, and with cheap Rem thunderbolt ammo too. Great accuracy with iron sights and sturdy as it could be. Ah, fond memories

The other night on a shooting show called "impossible shots" i saw Jerry Miculek pop a balloon at 100 yds with one of those keychain sized NAA revolvers!

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure Jerry Miculek is not actually human...

The weak spot of the 70pps is the barrel union!
The receiver is designed for the marlin 60 or similar guns with larger diameter barrels.
A smaller diameter barrel is needed to allow the securing nut to work on the machined shoulder.

Marlin skimped on design cost and tooling by using the standard receiver and creating an adapter to fill the gap.

This receiver is secured by a cotter pin type arrangement thats driven thru the receiver & presses hard against a rebate in the barrel adaptor, this stops all movement in theory but i have found that any extreme over-tightening of the retaining nut puts excessive pressure on the barrel adaptor securing pin. Once the pin is damaged, then the whole barrel can easily move between shoots-especially if your shooting heavy hitting stuff like velocitor's or yellow jackets or CCI stingers!! Not only is this problem evident while tightening the barrel down but it is also evident when attaching and removing my silencer!
It seems that marlin barrel security has never been subject to million of silencers being tightened and slackened again and again in USA, however in Europe silencers are totally unprohibited in most countries.

Anyway besides the problems with the barrel adaptor there also exist the lesser issue of slight movement of the actual barrel within the barrel adaptor. I've thought about this problem quite a bit and there are solution but they'd require the design and machining of a new adaptor!!

Moral of the story! Dont overtighteneing your barrel and fit a scout scope!!

Although this problem happened to me- I sorted it by taking the adaptor out and filling in the rebated with a fillit of weld and then filing it down to the original size before re-driving in the securing pin. I had to do it 3 time to get it right--
Originally i tried sorting the issue by using fiber glass resin (resin only). I poured a small bit in to the securing pin hole before inserting the pin. This worked for a while but it fail while firing more hard hitting ammo!!.

TBH it would seem that a few grub screws placed at the thickest points of the reciever housing and screwed in to the barrel adaptor would stop any movement of this 5th wheel.

regards ivan

"scout scope" = riflescope mounted to the barrel rather than the receiver.

This is also the best system for scope mounting the Browning take-down .22.

My Marlin Papoose has been great. It has been a very reliable and accurate "little" rifle.

1. I leave the barrel on most of the time and only hand snug the barrel nut with the supplied wrench. I take it down to where the nut will not move more by hand and then just snug it with the wrench. Check it once in awhile. Never found it loose.

2. Mine has been virtually 100% reliable. Close to 1000 rounds so far.

3. I think it is very accurate. I have not wanted to put a scope on it yet. I can hit shot gun shells almost every time I try at 25-30 yds and the same for coke cans at 75-80 yds using the open sights.

Mine is stainless and I bought four extra 10 round mags. I have six other 22 LR bolts, pumps and semi autos and I like the Papoose as much as any of them.

Lj

Yep i wish i had only snugged mine down as well but i used brute strength to secure my barrel and would leave it in place for weeks at a time, this defeats the whole object of having a take down rifle!

Anyway i now have scout scope fitted and this eliminates any Assembly errors in scope/barrel alignment.
see picture frank.jpg-
http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php/topic,49394.0.html
This is similar to my design but i had gun smith cut a +4" 60deg dovetail on each side to allow me fit either 3" or 4" one piece scope mounts, either being standard or being offset will offer me further room for adjusting.


Next i like to work on the 'barrel securing nut' and remove 50% of the threads on the nut and 50% of the threads on the bolt in order to create a high speed attachment with threads. The modified union would have threads in the 120deg locations..

the outside of the nut will have a small lug welded to it to allow for hand tightening (and to do away with wrench) similar to that when using coins in the rebate..
The whole point of this will be to have a barrel that can be secured with one 15deg twist of the securing nut as opposed to several complete turns of the nut with it current config.

Anyway if i can stay away from the pub i might get something productive done for a change.
Anybody know the correct name for this type of thread I've mentioned above.

ATB Ivan