Questions about crushing a scope tube?

You would probably see a dent or crease in the outer tube of the scope.

You can see a dent in the tube. I've seen some aluminum tubes squashed flatter'n a dead coon and still work. Mostly people crush a tube with misaligned rings or a shim wedged into the ring to level the scope. That said, it doesn't take too much pressure to adequately tighten the rings onto the scope. Work all of the screws in rotation, gradually applying more pressure as you work your way around.

KR

the first time I tightened it way too tight as it actually broke the ring.

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WOW! That's tight. If you didn't dent to tube you're properly OK. The scope rings screws should be tightened to 18-22 INCH-POUNDS, that's not very much force.

It seems to me if you don`t know what your doing( anybody) it`s pudent to get some information on the subject. Plenty of it to be had on the inter-net.
Not trying to be nasty just stating the obvious.

never understood how people overtighten the scope rings... there is just no reason for it... Tighten them in sequence until they are "snug"... perhaps another half turn and you are done.. no need to TORQUE on them to the point of stripping screws, stripping holes, bending scopes, or breaking rings...



as to your question... sounds like you are safe.... but once again.. it is not necessary to torque the hell out of the ring screws...

As others have said, very little force is required. After all, the rings' job is simply to retain the position of the scope during firing. Even with a heavy recoiling rifle, it doesn't take much to achieve this. A good simple way to proceed (without using a torque wrench) is to tighten in sequence (like lug nuts) using one finger on a allen key...that is more than sufficient IME. That said, I would say your scope will be just fine.

Since this sounds like I have it too tight should I loosen it? I've shot the gun and it shoots great. I just didn't know if I should leave it alone or loosen them?

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Leave it be; "If it ain't broke don't fix it". I was under the impression that you had removed it to inspect it a second time.

If you over torqued the screws, or bent, dented or kinked the tube by doing such, loosening it will not reverse the damage.

Leave it well enough alone now!

Most damaged tubes are a result of misaligned rings, out of round rings, or just plain ol' crap components, also out of spec. scope tubes in regards to outside diameter and symmetry will result in damage, not so much the torque, or over torque.

Most scope rings do well enough with 18 to 25 inch pounds of torque applied to new, lightly oiled threads. Aluminum rings will require the lower torque values while steel rings, especially units that utilize number 8 or 10 size machine screws, will require the higher torque values.

It does not take much to hold the scope, if everything is made correctly and working right... loc-tite and gorilla torque is not necessary! lol
A top quality set of rings will bottom out before damage can happen to the scope tube.

Don't have to tighten them much if you use good locktite. When your screw bottoms out, usually its less than a half turn to lock it down.

I use the included blue with my Larue mounts. But It wouldn't be too bad to use red. My mount is aluminum, so a lighter or heatgun loosens up the locktight fast.

Don't have to tighten them much if you use good locktite.

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I would never use locktite (even blue) for rings. It isn't necessary and can damage the screw or ring threads upon removal. For mounts blue locktite is a welcome addition, because they are seldom (if ever) removed, and access is limited after mounting, but keep it off the rings.

You must not have had loose rings like I have then.

Blue (weak) loktite ain't going to damage any kind of thread or screw. Red on the other hand...

BSW

Red won't hurt anything as long as you don'y mind heating it up. Hot threadlock becomes no-lock (which tastes like jellybeans!).

Probally a good idea to heat up blu before bolt removal as well. Especially in Aluminum.

When installing a ring set, it helps to lap them with one of those tubular ring lappers & lapping compound sold by Brownells. Lapping perfectly aligns the rings, and makes them absolutely circular. Much less chance to crush or ding a scope tube then, and easier for the rings to evenly clamp down on the tube.

A gunsmith told me most hunting grade rings are not quite circular.

I've never used Loctite of any flavor on rings nor mounts, and I've never had a scope come loose. Well, okay, one Leupold 8x that had been on my Enfield for over 10 years loosened up, but that was probably getting jostled in the safe. Anyway, that's the only issue I ever had with rings.

As a footnote, I don't buy cheap mounts or rings; life's too short for Wally World's Mickey Mouse Mounts. I use either Weaver steel (bases and rings) or the newer Leupold-style turn-in bases and steel rings. Those bases are best as one-piece units, BTW.

JustMHO,
KR

PT1911 said:

never understood how people overtighten the scope rings... there is just no reason for it... Tighten them in sequence until they are "snug"... perhaps another half turn and you are done.. no need to TORQUE on them to the point of stripping screws, stripping holes, bending scopes, or breaking rings...



as to your question... sounds like you are safe.... but once again.. it is not necessary to torque the hell out of the ring screws...

Click to expand...

+1
It's like tightening a 5-lug tire -- remember those!?
Al

A gunsmith told me most hunting grade rings are not quite circular.

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Noen, and I mean none, are absolutely concentric, except for the rings that are 'machined' in some form.

Ken Farrell does a good machined ring set, I have never ran into a problem with his matched, serial numbered and machined rings and bases.

Even his standard rings and bases are far superior to most manufacturers stuff.

Loc-tite and rings....just wrong!

I had a similar experience. I took a mini-14 (non-adjustable rings) to my gun range to ask for advice about mounting and sighting the scope. I was a complete beginner wrt rifles and firearms. One of the employees offered to do it for me while I watched. This range offers some gunsmithing services I assumed they knew what they were doing, at least more than I did.

When putting the top halves of the rings on, instead of alternating the guy tightened down the left screws on the front ring, then the left screws on the back ring, then all the right side screws. He actually broke the tip of his wrench doing so.

I didn't know any better. I want to take the scope off and try to remount it with a bit more care. I bought a Wheeler mounting kit that includes a level and a fatwrench and lapping tools, and rods to check ring alignment.

If the outside of the scope isn't visibly gouged or dented, should I assume it's ok? Or is there a way to check for more subtle damage or bending?

If the rings are misaligned, they can't be adjusted since this is a mini and I'm just using the cuts in the receiver...would lapping help with any subtle misalignment?

Locktite didn't get so popular by damaging threads. Blue is removable, red is permanent and requires a little heat to remove and green is penetrating that is used on already assembled parts. The only damage Locktite can cause is to teh screw head if you haven't heated up red locktite.

Scope rings may or may not need Locktite, but using the correct one won't hurt anything and may help.

squinty, if the scope is in good functional condition I would assume the best and simply loosen the rings and re-tighten them in sequence using the proper torque. Lapping generally won't take out misalignment (just give a better bearing surface) nor is it necessary (but won't hurt anything) unless you are seeking the absolute most stable platform (for precision target shooting or high recoil applications), and that shouldn't be the case with your Mini.

I bought a torque-wrench screwdriver to use before mounting my first nice scope (using Warne steel rings, not some wimpy Chinese aluminum-foil rings) and stopped worrying. See what the ring manufacturer recommends for torque, but typically between 15 and 25 inch-lbs (definitely not foot-lbs!). This is fairly snug but far from gorilla tight.

I have never seen a scope damaged from overtightening, and I know I've wrenched down on some pretty hard before going the torque-wrench route. I suspect most people who crank too hard are using thin, weak rings with their scope. I suspect crushed tubes will only happen if you use stout, high quality rings with a lower quality scope; but I'm only speculating.

I did it once, on a Leupold Vari-X III 1.5-5, using Leupold rings... Scope still worked just had a little "tear" in the anodizing.