Two shots at last: Over/Under Slingshot Crossbow

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JoergS

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I have invested about 8 hours of work to make my first two-shot slingshot crossbow.

I still don't have access to my welding gear, lathe and mill, so I had to do it in wood.

I wanted it to be as strong as my most powerful onces - but per "barrel". So it had to be really sturdy, bulky and a bit bizarre. But it works like a charm.

The trigger mechanism allows me to shoot one barrel after the other or two at the same time. A really, really simple lever serves as thr trigger.

Due to the necessary thickness of the rubber involved, I had to make the fork really high. But that is not so bad as this weapon has to be cocked like a crossbow, with your foot stomping down on the rear stock and both hands pulling up the fork. Also the "barrel" had to be aluminum, thin wood is not strong enough for this DOUBLE HUNTER BAND shooting device.

The concept works, and once done in steel, it won't be bulky at all.

Here is the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHj3iicXcQs

Jörg

overunder1.jpg


overunder2.jpg


overunder3.jpg
 
I was wondering how you were going to manage to load the "bottom barrel". Very nicely done.
 
As usual you have impressed once again. You invest a lot of time and hard work into your craft. It is awesome to follow your work.
 
That was really cool. I've been shooting sling shots (or wrist rockets, as we called them) since I was a kid. Sling shots are a great way to have fun and work on some aiming skills, and the price of ammo is right (free, since I used rocks).

Your sling shot rifle is quite amazing. I've been looking for something with more power, and you've certainly stepped up the power level here. 30J is approximately 22 ft*lb of energy, which is in magnum air gun territory. Very nice.

As an engineer and garage tinkerer, I'm really impressed with how you've worked out the firing system of your gun, and made it work so smoothly.

The only possible hitch I could see is when the gun is cocked -- the only thing holding the sling in position is friction with the rail. Would it be possible to machine some notches or grooves into the rail (in such a way as to not introduce excessive stress) so you can lock it in as you go? Just a thought.

Again, well done. I thought your video did a really nice job of explaining what you've done as well.
 
hey, thanks for the nice comments!

There IS a notch at the full draw position, you can see it both in the picture and in the video.

Jörg
 
hey, thanks for the nice comments!

There IS a notch at the full draw position, you can see it both in the picture and in the video.

Jörg

That's good! What I was referring to was notches at stages as you slide it up, so you can rest safely.
 
Wow, that is just so slick! We never know what you'll come out with next, but it's always interesting. Thanks!
 
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