Springfield 1911 ejects casing into forehead

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franko07

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May 23, 2010
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I have a springfield champion 4" Gi lightweight that when i got it was having problems with ejecting the cartirage and when i asked the guy at the range he told me it was from limp wristing(didnt believe him) so i got on here and read about extractor and such learning how to adjust and tweak, after filing a very small amout off the extractor it now ejects everytime but now it shoots the case right into my 4head. how do i go about repairing this problem so it goes to the side.


i would have just done a search but its a very specific problem and didnt know how to search it.
 
Move forehead, if that fails then have the ejector adjusted by a qualified gunsmith.
 
The fix is a bit hard to verbalize but i'll try. If you don't understand fully DON'T make modifications until I am able to clarify.

The extractor shape should be such that it holds the case up on the breech face and tensioned such that it will hold it when snapped in and shaken about. It mustn't be too tight as you will have feeding issues.

If it is extracting properly, then the location of the spent brass in flight is primarily controlled by the shape of the ejector and extractor tension. It should be (when viewed from the left side) slightly (just a few degrees) undercut on the bottom 70% of the face. The upper 30% should have an angle filed on it to control when the case rotates up. That upper angle may have a SLIGHT chamfer on the right side toward the ejection port to encourage the case to flip more effectively to the right.

Here is a link to a picture...(all the way at the bottom) of a correctly shaped ejector. See if yours looks like this one.

http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/ejection perfection.htm

Hope that helps
Cheers
Mac.
 
Colt Series 70
Para Ordnance P14
Springfield Armory 1911 clone
Ballester Molina

They all bounced brass off my forehead.

Also several other 1911's (one was a Smith and Wesson) all did it.

That's the dirty little secret the 1911 fanboi's didn't tell you.

Oh yeah, sure you can "tune" the gun so it is less likely to frag your face - so long as its tuned "right" and you use just the right parts and tools, and you use just the right ammo, etc., etc.

If this is such a chronic problem, maybe somebody can explain to me why the extractors and ejectors aren't "tuned" before the guns leave the factory?

Did I mention these things only hold 8 or 9 rounds, and they are big as the dickens and heavy as a boat anchor?

I watch other shooters at the range when they have a 1911. The ones who are shooting factory guns and factory ammo are all getting fragged in the face and down the shirt collar.

I still have the Springfield gun.
Very pretty to look at.
It only nails me square between the eyes every third or fourth magazine.
If I would open my mouth, I wouldn't even have to police brass.
 
cool, ill look into the extractor a little more, i had figured that was the problem since it decides where it hits to push the spent case out.

i just bought the gun so i could have a project, i like working on them and i have a sig p239 and lcp for carry so that isnt a problem.
 
"If I would open my mouth, I wouldn't even have to police brass."

Uh....so does passing them through your digestive tract give them that new shiny brass look?

Cheers
Mac.
 
on ejectors is there a good tuned one i can put on it or do i have to tune it to the gun?
 
Every once in a great while my Series 70 Combat Commander sends one back that bounces off the crainium..........limp wristing maybe ? I have a lowered ejection port and the gun tuned very well.....Hmmmm.
 
That's the dirty little secret the 1911 fanboi's didn't tell you.
That's funny. None of my 1911's hit me in the head with brass. Maybe I am doing something wrong. :D

Don't let the 1911 detractors bother you franko07.
 
That's funny. None of my 1911's hit me in the head with brass. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

Don't let the 1911 detractors bother you franko07.


it wont, i bought this gun as a project not as a carry. i want to make it retartedly accurate and 100% operational all the time to my liking and then i will consider throwing it in the truck every once and a while.

i bought the GI because i liked its style.
 
The first thing in 1911s of all sizes that should be checked before all else is the spring.

The shorter guns generally should be changed at 1000-1500 rnds and the 5" guns should be changed at 1500-2500 rnds. These intervals should be reduced with hotter loads.

You would not believe how many guns have passed through my hands for extractor work that merely needed fresh springs. Clean, assemble properly with a fresh recoil spring, Then evaluate your problem. I had this exact scenario with a lady customer whose gun started doing this at Gunsite a week ago. Hers got so bad it busted her Bushing while at gunsite.
:)
 
W.E.G. said:
I watch other shooters at the range when they have a 1911. The ones who are shooting factory guns and factory ammo are all getting fragged in the face and down the shirt collar.

Not me! My factory 1911 sends cases (reloads or factory ammunition) about 10 feet to the right roughly perpendicular to wherever the muzzle is pointing. The cases don't get anywhere near my head.

:)
 
Colt Series 70
Para Ordnance P14
Springfield Armory 1911 clone
Ballester Molina

They all bounced brass off my forehead.

Also several other 1911's (one was a Smith and Wesson) all did it.

That's the dirty little secret the 1911 fanboi's didn't tell you.

Oh yeah, sure you can "tune" the gun so it is less likely to frag your face - so long as its tuned "right" and you use just the right parts and tools, and you use just the right ammo, etc., etc.

If this is such a chronic problem, maybe somebody can explain to me why the extractors and ejectors aren't "tuned" before the guns leave the factory?

Did I mention these things only hold 8 or 9 rounds, and they are big as the dickens and heavy as a boat anchor?

I watch other shooters at the range when they have a 1911. The ones who are shooting factory guns and factory ammo are all getting fragged in the face and down the shirt collar.

I still have the Springfield gun.
Very pretty to look at.
It only nails me square between the eyes every third or fourth magazine.
If I would open my mouth, I wouldn't even have to police brass.
7 to 9 rounds is not enough???
 
The first thing in 1911s of all sizes that should be checked before all else is the spring.

The shorter guns generally should be changed at 1000-1500 rnds and the 5" guns should be changed at 1500-2500 rnds. These intervals should be reduced with hotter loads.

This.

I picked up a 4" Springer used that had quite a bit of custom work done. The extractor had been tuned correctly, but the cases came straight up and back, usually hitting me in the arm, not quite making it to the forehead. Also having problems with failure to extract every 20 rounds or so. Adjusting extractor tension dropped this to every 75 rounds or so. A new Wolff 18lb spring eliminated all problems, gun now puts brass where it should, 10ft or so to my right.
 
My Springfield 1911 also ejects the brass into my forehead. But I kinda like it. I'm funny that way. :p
 
The only time I can get one of my 1911's (4 Colts and a SW1911) to eject an empty case at my face is when I either reduce the stability of my grip and wrist lock, or use too heavy of a recoil spring.

Yes, as an armorer I've slightly tuned the occasional internal extractor. The current standard external SW1911 uses a 3rd gen .40 extractor that's already been beveled at the factory (see below).

sw1911extractors.gif

The Performance Center models and the Pro Series Subcompact 3" use what they call an oversize extractor, which allows the hook to ride a bit lower on the case rim. There's been some rumor of an extractor revision for the standard SW1911 line, but I haven't heard any final details. If I were to make a wild guess, I'd wonder if they might change the extractor to have a hook profile similar to the M&P, where the hook is larger top-to-bottom and engages lower on the case rim. It requires a slight twist and turn to seat the M&P extractor in the extractor recess, instead of just slipping it straight in as with the current 3rd gen part. No big deal. S&W is always looking for ways to refine their products. The standard SW1911 extractor was originally used by the PC when they were making the SW1911 line after all, (before moving it over to regular factory production), but then the PC started using a larger one in their 1911 models. Go figure.

I've also been able to get a couple of other.45's to toss empty cases my face by either relaxing my grip/wrist lock or using a really heavy recoil spring, too, such as my Ruger P90 (heaviest spring sold by Wolff) and my G26 (stock spring with relaxed grip).
 
Hummm my cheap Metro Arms American Classic ll 1911 has never hit or spit brass at me; but I do speak nicely to it.
 
The first thing in 1911s of all sizes that should be checked before all else is the spring.

The shorter guns generally should be changed at 1000-1500 rnds and the 5" guns should be changed at 1500-2500 rnds. These intervals should be reduced with hotter loads.

You would not believe how many guns have passed through my hands for extractor work that merely needed fresh springs. Clean, assemble properly with a fresh recoil spring, Then evaluate your problem. I had this exact scenario with a lady customer whose gun started doing this at Gunsite a week ago. Hers got so bad it busted her Bushing while at gunsite.

this was a Brand spanking new pistol
 
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