Tubb Final Finish Ammo?

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Has anyone here used this stuff? I was thinking about doing this to my Remington 700, and was wondering if any of you have used this before and what your results were.
 
Used the NECO version and it works for making the barrel easier to clean. I have not gotten any accuracy improvement.

With the introduction of Wipe-Out and other foaming bore cleaners, I don't see the need anymore. For new rough factory barrels, I tend to use Flitz or Iosso for the first few cleanings.
 
How many rounds have already gone down the barrel? After the first 100, the jobs likely done - most abrasive ammo won't get more. You net very little FPS or accuracy, it's a high precision, high dollar target barrel technique for something doing less than 1/2MOA. The typical 1 1/2MOA barrels on hunting guns won't see much effective improvement. Handloading cartridges, getting the bullet, loaded length, and powder consistent will deliver more. It's just a lot more work.

Lots of race gun marketing going on out there, noone guarantees money back you will get a permanent improvement you can see with the naked eye. It's a really based on a bunch of other stuff being done first, and it has to be prioritized.

Start with a $450 Kreiger match barrel, I speculate the break in instructions will be specific. Remington, not so much. Nothing in my owner's manual even mentioned it.
 
Tirod, as regards factory barrels, strongly suspect most don't get 200 rounds through them in a life time. No reason to suggest a break in as they are rarely "broken"....

:neener:
 
I don't have any experience with them but I did look into them before shooting my Remmy for the first time. I couldn't see them doing anything that wont happen after a number of rounds. Running any abrasive, of any type doesn't seem natural. I would tend to think any inaccuracy of the bullet's shape would file that inaccuracy into the barrel, but maybe I am uninformed. Still I am interested in other peoples experiences with them, and why they think it did or did not help.
 
Used the NECO version and it works for making the barrel easier to clean. I have not gotten any accuracy improvement.

With the introduction of Wipe-Out and other foaming bore cleaners, I don't see the need anymore. For new rough factory barrels, I tend to use Flitz or Iosso for the first few cleanings.
Alright that sounds good, thanks.
 
How many rounds have already gone down the barrel? After the first 100, the jobs likely done - most abrasive ammo won't get more. You net very little FPS or accuracy, it's a high precision, high dollar target barrel technique for something doing less than 1/2MOA. The typical 1 1/2MOA barrels on hunting guns won't see much effective improvement. Handloading cartridges, getting the bullet, loaded length, and powder consistent will deliver more. It's just a lot more work.

Lots of race gun marketing going on out there, noone guarantees money back you will get a permanent improvement you can see with the naked eye. It's a really based on a bunch of other stuff being done first, and it has to be prioritized.

Start with a $450 Kreiger match barrel, I speculate the break in instructions will be specific. Remington, not so much. Nothing in my owner's manual even mentioned it.
I get what your saying, and I do realize that my rifle is not and was never intended to be a tack driver at 600. I really like this rifle, it is probably the gun I like most and I just thought that maybe this would be an easy way to get a decently (for a huntin' gun ;) ) polished barrel. I am also pretty aware that it likely not do much in the way of accuracy, but it's cheap enough and it will make me feel better. :D

And if what Al says is true, easier cleanings are also welcomed.

Thanks guys
 
David Tubb Conditioning

Unforgiven, about 3 years ago I used David Tubbs system on my rifle. He didn't have loaded ammo at that time. My rifle is a FNA1 SPR in 308,Leupold Mark IV LRT, it consistently shot .5 moa with Win brass,Hornady HPBT 168 gr bullets. I had probably shot 500 rds through it when I used his system. It improved to one ragged hole, 5 shot groups using the same load but with the bullets now being moly coated, at 100yds. I purchase them uncoated and coat them in a tumbler I have just for that purpose. Hope that helps.
 
Ive used It on two rifles one had a realy ruff bore and i used the first 3 grits and passed on the last. the other, my new one i used the last grits to break in the barrel. seemed to go a good job both times.
 
Bbl break-in

Unforgiven--Tirod said
Start with a $450 Kreiger match barrel, I speculate the break in instructions will be specific. Remington, not so much.
Krieger states quite specifically NOT to use any abrasives in their barrels. There is no need, as the bbls come already lapped smoother than smooth. And they do come with specific break-in instructions. I expect the same is true with all the other custom bbl makers. With a common factory bbl, IF it is rough (either leading, or with obvious "tight spots" when pushing a patch through) the abrasive bullets will help smooth things out, reduce leading, and make the bbl more uniform end-to-end. That's what the Tubb, and other abrasive bullet systems, were made for.
 
With a common factory bbl, IF it is rough (either leading, or with obvious "tight spots" when pushing a patch through) the abrasive bullets will help smooth things out, reduce leading, and make the bbl more uniform end-to-end. That's what the Tubb, and other abrasive bullet systems, were made for.

That's good because that was my intention.
 
i used it on my 243 to see if it would work, i have noticed no better accuracy, but it is much easier to clean. and stays cleaner longer, by that i mean i can shoot it more before the groups start to open up
 
I know two guys that swear by the Tubbs bullets used for the purpose of smoothing/uniforming the bore. They are pretty good shooters to, for what it's worth. Personaly, I might consider using them on a stock factory barrel, but never on an aftermarket barrel.

BTW, my Krieger cost me $325, directly from Krieger.
 
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