Almost embarassed to ask this about caps...

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Tallbald

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I thought from all the reading I have done that I should expect percussion caps to split and fall away as I rotate the cylinder on my Old Army, I've recently read more and it seems that I may have been wrong, with some implying that in a best situation the cap should fire but remain intact so it can be removed with a fingernail or tool. Please set me on the right path! Don.
 
Yep, sure would be nice if they always stayed intact and on the nipple.

But that's not exactly a real common occurrence. Depending on the brand and 'size' of the caps, the shape of the nipples, the powder load and the phase of the moon they will either stay on in one piece, shatter into several pieces some or all of which fall into the action, split apart but remain together and then fall into the action, attach themselves to the hammer or fall off the nipple but stay in the nipple recess.
 
I could be mistaken, but I don't think you should expect that much consistency from fired caps. On my ROAs, Dragoons, and Walker, some caps seem to fire and stay intact, others split, and still others blow apart. I've not checked carefully, but it seems to vary across chambers inconsistently, too. I wouldn't worry about it. If they go "bang" when hit and don't fall off before being struck, you're doing fine.
 
Good question about countersinking a nipple. I'm trying to figure out how counter-sinking would help a cap remain on. If countersinking means to drill the opening out such that it has a bigger downward taper, I guess this would allow more explosive force to go down rather that be pushed back against the cap and causing the cap to dislodge.

Thoughts anyone?
 
Thanks Sam. Darn if I don't know about some guns. Never looked into the cap 'n ball mouse pistols. Neat little loading tool they have at that link. Too bad they don't have a conical bullet mold.
 
It depends on the size and brand of cap and the size and configuration of the nipple. I've fired caps of both types, and IMO I would far rather have caps that split and fall off than have to deal with removing tight, expended caps. They can be a real PITA to remove, and my first 1858 has a cylinder with some nice screwdriver gouges in the cap channels from trying to remove the darned things.
 
In my experience, the vast majority of caps on the ROA split and fall off on their own. One of the joys of the ROA is they rarely have cap debris fall into the works and bind things up. It's never happened to me after thousands of rounds but I guess it could happen. The few times a fired cap stayed put it was a pain to pry it off.

Jeff
 
Durn Caps anyhow!

RWS Caps have been my worst foe! They're soft and thin and fall everywhere in the action. The worst place is under the Hammer which makes the hammer not fall on the next nipple.
I have had my best luck with Remington Caps hanging on and together.
HTH,
ZVP
 
I find the RWS 1075's are really more powerful but it really is a crap shoot (so to speak) if the cap is going to blow itself to pieces, stay on the nipple or somewhere in between.

I have found a little bit better solution. Blomquist nipples are made to use the RWS caps. He specifically used the 1075 when he makes his nipples.

I still like Treso's...but since I have a 1000 RWS 1075's....the Blomquist/RWS 1075 combo is really tough to beat.

I'm not kidding about the difference in kaboom between RWS 1075 plus caps and Remington. I fire a round of caps, with no charge, first to clear everything out. The 1075's are a lot more powerful. I have no idea if this is good or bad.
 
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