average price for a 1911 ?

If I were in the market for a bare bones 1911, then I would get the Springfield Mil-Spec at minimum. You can buy cheaper bottom-barrel 1911s, but you get what you pay for. With Springfield, you at least get a forged frame and slide and some great Customer Service behind it.

If a basic 1911 works for you, then you are off to a great start. Unfortunately, since I've been down the 1911 road before (and am doing it again at present), I know that I need higher profile sights, a beavertail grip safety, slightly extended thumb safety, removal of the internal locking system (Springfield only) and a medium or long reach trigger. I can take care of most of these myself, but if I couldn't, then the price to pay a gunsmith would put me OVER the $800-$900 which could have bought me what I needed from the get-go. At least the Springfield Mil-Spec comes with higher profile sights than a typical USGI model. That puts you a little ahead of the game.

Have you shot a 1911 with a traditional grip safety tang? If so, did ya bleed? If you bled, then you should already be considering that you'll want a beavertail grip safety and a commander hammer to go with it. At that point, you've got the sear-hammer interface to worry about. You can see where this is going...

are there any plane jane 1911's that are lower priced?

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Rock Island Armory
STI Spartan (I believe that RIA makes them to STI's specs)
Springfield GI
Ruger SR1911

There are others, that's just what comes to mind. The RIA will likely be in the $450 range, the reast around $600-$650 going by my LGS prices.

DO NOT get a GI, best deal on the planet is the RIA Tactical since it has all the bells and whistles, and only costs 35 clams more than the GI which prety much anyone is going to want to trick out. But that stuff is already on the RIA Tactical.

About 500 clams and that's it. They shoot great.

My Remington R1 has been 100%.

I'm generally going to recommend Colt for simple old fashioned GI style 1911's. they also have a very nice 100yr anniversery model out.

If you allready have polymer pistols covering your needs for defense, then I see no problem starting with a GI 1911, or not buying any 1911, and saving up for a really nice one.

As far as average price of 1911's? I'd guess $900-1000.

As far as price/value of 1911's that get shot alot, are used for competition, or carried CCW's by people who are more advanced shooters than myself: $1500-2500.

I have noted a pattern amongst picky experienced 1911 shooters. But there are still plenty of those that choose simple low end 1911's, also some of those shooters don't need the features of a modern 1911. (like the beaver tail etc.)

Sniper X said:

DO NOT get a GI, best deal on the planet is the RIA Tactical since it has all the bells and whistles, and only costs 35 clams more than the GI which prety much anyone is going to want to trick out. But that stuff is already on the RIA Tactical.

About 500 clams and that's it. They shoot great.

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Centerfire has it for $450.00. Bud's prices aren't what they used to be. They were nearly always the best price that I could find. Anymore, they are just OK. I'd definitely shop around before I bought from Bud's.

I just got into the 1911 game in april. I wanted to stay inexpensive and simple, and as close to mil spec as possible. The black iron sights on the SA GI are useless when shooting black targets, so I paid $600 for an SA Mil Spec (it has three dot sights).

Its a great gun, shoots fantastic and is nice and accurate. I have 1400 rounds in it so far, and it just keeps getting better and better.

However. The parkerized finish is gawd awful. It scratches if you speak to it harshly. And the sights, you can barely see the dots. I picked up an FN recently and couldn't BELIEVE how brightly visible the dots were. I'd love to have those on my gun.

So then I started looking at SA's Custom Shop's prices. I'd really like to have the gun refinished in something more durable (I wish I could send it to Glock and be done with it) and I'd like better sights, maybe tritium or just higher profile dots like on the FN. By the time I pay for those two tweaks, my Mil Spec costs me more like what a Loaded would have cost. And the loaded has more stuff on there (like the beavertail) that I don't care about right now but one day I might.

So I guess the moral of the story is, if you go cheap and decide to customize, you're gonna end up spending more money. Kinda like the guy who spends $15k making his Camaro faster. He shoulda just bought a Corvette in the first place.

Me, I think I'll keep my mil spec mil spec. If I want a fancy, more modern 1911 someday, I'll just save up for a Nighthawk Custom!

Old Krow,

Good choices!

GP- I've got a pair you can play with. They represent relatively opposite ends of the spectrum. I picked up a used Springer at Traders a while ago for just over $400 OTD. They don't make the model anymore, but it is somewhere between today's GI and Loaded models. I've since had a bit of non functional work done to it. The other is a Les Baer Monolith Heavywieght I also got used in a local private sale (it cost a bit more ). It is in every way (except carry, for which it was not designed) a better pistol, but I'll bet you'll come away with a very favorable impression of the Springer.

Just one (two?) more reason(s) for you to come up to Greenville or lure me up to Cedar Ridge.

However. The parkerized finish is gawd awful. It scratches if you speak to it harshly. And the sights, you can barely see the dots. I picked up an FN recently and couldn't BELIEVE how brightly visible the dots were. I'd love to have those on my gun.

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You need to thoroughly oil your parkerized finish if it's scratching that easily. Some folks warm them up with a heat gun, or in the oven on its lowest setting; and then apply a thick oil, or even Vasoline (since it's just clarified Cosmoline). Parkerizing is tough as all get out once you get a thick layer of lubricant down in the pores.

As for sights, have a local gunsmith measure the rear dovetail, and front tenon. Order the appropriate size Colt standard cut sights from Trijicon (PN CA01 or CA02). Have gunsmith fit rear sight, and stake front sight.

ugaarguy said:

You need to thoroughly oil your parkerized finish if it's scratching that easily. Some folks warm them up with a heat gun, or in the oven on its lowest setting; and then apply a thick oil, or even Vasoline (since it's just clarified Cosmoline). Parkerizing is tough as all get out once you get a thick layer of lubricant down in the pores. .

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How often would I have to do this?

0to60, do it once or twice, and after that, you should be good to wipe it down with an oiled rag occasionally as you would any other firearm.

ETA: Hat tip to former THR mod XavierBreath - http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2007/02/parkerizing-truth-vs-tales.html - great article with complete info where I learned about parkerizing back in '07 when he wrote the piece.

ugaarguy said:

0to60, do it once or twice, and after that, you should be good to wipe it down with an oiled rag occasionally as you would any other firearm.

ETA: Hat tip to former THR mod XavierBreath - http://xavierthoughts.blogspot.com/2007/02/parkerizing-truth-vs-tales.html - great article with complete info where I learned about parkerizing back in '07 when he wrote the piece.

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Alright, I'm game. I'll definitely give this a shot.

Alright, I'm game. I'll definitely give this a shot.

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Glad I could pass on what others taught me. Another trick you can try may help with the sights. If you're happy with the size of the existing dots but want more contrast you can fill the divots with brightly colored nail polish. If you want bigger dots carefully use a center punch, or hand turn a tap, to widen the divots. Fill with white nail polish, or a bright color if you prefer.

ugaarguy said:

Glad I could pass on what others taught me. Another trick you can try may help with the sights. If you're happy with the size of the existing dots but want more contrast you can fill the divots with brightly colored nail polish. If you want bigger dots carefully use a center punch, or hand turn a tap, to widen the divots. Fill with white nail polish, or a bright color if you prefer.

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I was definitely planning on doing something like this. Does nail polish hold up to Hoppes #9?

I just made this trade with Smaug, or you could have had it for 400...

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=604385

From what I can tell so far, it is a great pistol for the money.

0to60 said:

How often would I have to do this?

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My 1911 ends up soaked in CLP and my lube after I clean and relube anyways. I just rub my oil soaked hands all over the gun and set it under a desk lamp with a 60 watt bulb for a while. Then wipe the gun dry with a rag. So my park'd 1911's get that done after each range trip.

Park is still mediocre. But thats why we have 'smiths that refinish 1911's. Don't waste any care in avoiding scratches. Use your 1911 hard, like the tool it is.

When it gets too ugly, refinish it in Melonite or Hardhat which holds up way better. But only do that when you're done modifying that pistol.

Taurus Pt1911

I own several Kimbers, aSprinfield and 2 RIA's as well as 2 Taurus Guns. My Two Taurus 1911's are the only guns that I have had zero issues with. Tney are good looking and drop dead reliable. They can be had for under $500.

I just ordered a Springfield Mil-Spec for $605 shipped, it seems to be the perfect gun for me. I like the classic 1911 look without the bells and whistles. Plus I love the parked finish. I had a parked RIA and the finish held up great, I did keep it oiled all the time and just wipe it off at the range.

good luck
Jim