S&W 686 or Ruger GP100

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Too_Pure

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My next gun is going to be one of these. It will be used for HD, possible CCW, and the range.

Which would you choose? Why?

Thanks.


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IMO the 686 has a much smoother trigger. But both guns are just as reliable and tough. The Ruger you will be able to find probably quite a bit cheaper than the 686. But the 686 also comes in a 7 shot cylinder option if that's something your looking for. Ruger has a 7 shot option but only in .327 I believe.
 
I'm a big S&W fan but, I haven't had much good to say about the 686's I've picked up. If those are your two contemplations I would go with the GP100. They are a solid wheel gun, and not bad looking either. If you stumble onto a model 19 or 66 S&W in good condition I would say yes to that, but good luck finsing one of those, they're getting scarce it seems.
 
The biggest difference is the price tag. In this case, Ruger wins.

A Smith WILL eventually get some endshake if you put enough rounds through it. But not enough to get problematic, until you've shot enough ammo to pay for several new revolvers. The Ruger IS built to last longer in that regard.

I think the Smith is better in the lockup and the SA trigger department.

But either way, I think it mostly comes down to price. If they cost the same, it would be a difficult decision.

It's not a coincidence that used Smith 686's usually sell for 150-200 less than retail, and Ruger GP100's usually sell for 0-50 less than retail... which puts them pretty close in price in the used market, despite the Smith retailing for $200 more. I actually bought my 686 and GP100 for the exact same price. There are things I like better and worse about each one, and it pretty much puts them equal to me.
 
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My 7 shot 686/6" came with a target trigger, one of the best DA triggers I've ever felt. One day at the range, I outshot a group of guys with AKs at 160 yards iron sights on a torso size target. First shot accuracy at extended distances.

I've carried K and N-frame Smiths for patrol, I'd choose the 686 with a target trigger in a heartbeat, even with the IL.

Bob
 
my favorite 686, eastbank.
 

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Try them both if possible, buy whichever one fits your hand best. They are both good guns.

Of course, you could always get one of each.......:evil:

(Someone had to say it!)
 
Both are fine HD guns, both are a bit large for CCW, even with short barrels. On the range, I think you'll enjoy the nicer action of the Smith more. That's basically where the extra cost is going.

It is unlikely you'd ever put enough rounds through these guns in a lifetime to ever wear them out.

Me personally? I had an opportunity to buy a GP-100 for $300 a few years ago, passed. When the opportunity for a 6" 686 at that price appeared, I jumped.
 
had both, had trigger jobs done on both, kept the smith. The trigger pull was just so much nicer and I shot it better. I preferred the way the ruger handled and fit me hand though. your results may vary.

Used, the ruger and the smith cost about the same from what I can tell.
 
When the gp100 came out many years age I had to have one, I bought a blue four inch. Went well with my security six.
I shot that gun alot. Many thousands of rounds. Great gun.
Then a buddy of mine let me shoot his 586 four inch.
I sold my ruger and bought a 586 with a four inch. Had a trigger job done and had it magnaported.
As of today I still have that four inch 586 and have had at least 4 more.
Some with a longer tube and some shorter. Some blue and some SS.
Like the blue ones better and the shorter tubes better.
 
I found a lightly used 586 pre-lock for the same price as a new GP100. Like a blued 686. Checkered grips. Lock up seems solid. Really nice.


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Either. Probably the one I found the best deal on, or that had the bbl/finish/sights configuration I was after.
 
Me personally? I had an opportunity to buy a GP-100 for $300 a few years ago, passed. When the opportunity for a 6" 686 at that price appeared, I jumped.

Yeah... I probably would have dislocated something between the jumping & reaching for my wallet.:D

I searched for a year & paid... well... a "lot" more than $300 for my 4" 686 no dash. There was a 4" GP100 next to it for $100 less. Wasn't even tempted. ;)
 
I want a Royal Phoenix to share safe time with my 686P so they can bicker about who's the best looking and shooting. :)

I can't think of two better looking 4" .357's.

Wouldn't a RP look good with this Smith. :)
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My 7 shot 686/6" came with a target trigger, one of the best DA triggers I've ever felt. One day at the range, I outshot a group of guys with AKs at 160 yards iron sights on a torso size target. First shot accuracy at extended distances.

I've carried K and N-frame Smiths for patrol, I'd choose the 686 with a target trigger in a heartbeat, even with the IL.

Bob
Yep. I have a 686+ 6", a -5 I think. Prelock, MIM parts. Did a little polishing and swapped out the mainspring with a stronger one and put in a lighter return spring. The trigger on this thing is AMAZING. I have people comment on it all the time. Super smooth double action, in single action it is super crisp and short --like pushing the button a dvd player. No pre-travel, no over-travel. Simply amazing. The cylinder has no real play and positively stops, it is so well made that when I spin it, it will spin for nearly a whole minute. Full lug, adjustable sights, 7 shots, and VERY accurate.

What he said about the 160 yard shot. In the army I was instructing an SDM course at a 300m KD range. We had steel silhouettes set up on the berm and we were at the 300m line. The day before, the chief instructor shot an 18" target standing at 200m with a .40 USP and I wanted to try it with my .357. We repainted the target to see any splashes first, and then standing at 300m using one hand firing single action, I put 5 out of 7 140gr. Hornady XTP handloads on the target.

Also, with the full lug barrel, it is pretty tame. .38spcl. feels like a .22, seriously. My wife loves this revolver as well, it is one of her favorite pieces to shoot, mostly because of how tame it is, but also because of how accurate it is and how easy and smooth the action works. She doesn't fight the trigger or hammer like she does the little 317, which has a very heavy action. She says I can't ever sell this one; no problem there. I got this thing for just over $200 in the mid-late 90's used!

Not only is this my favorite revolver, it is one of my favorite handguns, alongside the G17L and the Ed Brown Custom (which I don't own yet...). The 6" model probably isn't the best carry option, great for home defense and target work though (you can get very high velocities in .357 with a 6" bbl. --I've seen 1800+fps using 125's and N110!). Depending on how you carry, a 3" or 4" bbl. might be better. If I could only get one, I guess it would be the 4". If I were you and you can do it, I'd get the 6" 686+ used, with no lock and a frame mounted firing pin. Having the stainless or case hardened lockwork might be a plus, it is has never been a drawback for me though, and I think there are only one or two years that have the frame mounted pin, which I think is much more important. You won't find it for $200 anymore, but you can still get a good deal on one if you look around. Then if I were to carry a revolver, I'd take a hard look at the Smith and Wesson Night Guard. They come in several calibres, three frame sizes ranging from 5-8 shots, stainless cylinders, scandium frames, 2.5-2.75 inch barrels, and night sights. I'd go with the .44mag myself, but in .357 the 386 or 327 looks nice. Again, finding one that has a little use can save you some money.

I haven't handled the 8 shot ones, but they look nice. Jerry Miculek can sure shoot 'em fast! The only drawback is that they are built on large frames (or maybe that isn't a drawback depending on how you look at it --I like the elegence and balance of the medium frame, and 7 shots ain't anything to sneeze at).

Oh yeah, and if you get one with a lock, they are easy to disable. All you have to do is remove the side plate and some of the lockwork, then remove the lock "flag". The flag is the flat part that has a little steel pin on it and it moves. File the pin flat. Reinstall and off you go. The lock will look normal, no hole or anything, it just won't work. Make sure to replace it if you ever sell it.
 
I have both.I like both,but if I were going to be buying brand new I would no doubt go for the Ruger.I just don't care for newer Smith's.My old 686 4' no dash is sweet though.My GP 100 is what I hunt w/ when I'm shooting heavy loads.I've seen a couple 686's that had a steay diet of full power loads through them that needed repair.Never have a GP-100 though.
 
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