Lee Factory Crimp Die?

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You must not shoot lead bullets. If you did, you probably wouldn't make that statement.

But, they do crimp nicely. Of course, the regular seating die crimps nicely too.

Why what's wrong with using the FCD with lead bullets?
 
Lee: "If you are using mixed range brass stick with the bullet diameter that the cartridge was originally designed for and you won't need a taper crimp die nor a Factory Crimp die ..."

And that's the core of it; those who don't need Lee's FCD with a post-sizing ring or aren't concerned with 100% reliable chambering don't need it and no one has ever suggested otherwise. But bullet diameters and chambers vary, ditto case wall thickness varies and if they add the wrong way chambering may be impossible, which may occur at the worst possible time; it has little or nothing to do with the loaders methods, it just happens and the FCD prevents it.

Thus, web gurus who don't need or want the benefits of the FCD stoutly proclaiming it useless for everyone else are .... well, wrong.
 
For what it's worth, this is my first post. I have made a whopping 10 rounds in my new Lee classic turret with the four die setup for .40 S&W. Compared to factory ammunition there was seemingly no difference between the two (physically). Following the instructions (to the "T") they fed and fired flawlessly. I don't know if it truly made a difference using the FCD but from what I have read, that is to say a lot and trying to avoid propaganda, I am very pleased with the results and look forward to this new found "hobby". Oh and by hobby I mean pathological addiction that seems to simmer in the back my brain 24/7, oh the possibilities!
 
so what about the .45acp

in a revolver w/ moon clips vs. .45 AR (auto rim) it is the same die for either; so which one is it taper or roll? Roll crimp for both the acp brass that you intend to use in a revolver with moon clips and also the AR brass. So shouldn't there be different FCD for each then?

unknwn; what are those "special " dies for? do they put a rifle squash crimp on it? why would they make those for the pistol cartridges? for lever action mag tubes? Please explain.
 
Lee: "If you are using mixed range brass stick with the bullet diameter that the cartridge was originally designed for and you won't need a taper crimp die nor a Factory Crimp die ..."

And that's the core of it; those who don't need Lee's FCD with a post-sizing ring or aren't concerned with 100% reliable chambering don't need it and no one has ever suggested otherwise. But bullet diameters and chambers vary, ditto case wall thickness varies and if they add the wrong way chambering may be impossible, which may occur at the worst possible time; it has little or nothing to do with the loaders methods, it just happens and the FCD prevents it.

Thus, web gurus who don't need or want the benefits of the FCD stoutly proclaiming it useless for everyone else are .... well, wrong.

I agree. I don't think it is a marketing ploy by Lee true selves guys

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2
 
I agree. I don't think it is a marketing ploy by Lee true selves guys

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2

That's what I get for Google voicing. Should read "by Lee to sell dies" BUT I have a question. How do you know IF the FC crimp is sufficient? Thanks sage colleagues

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2
 
(edited for brevity) I have a question. How do you know IF the FC crimp is sufficient? Thanks sage colleagues
I believe this to be true. If anyone knows different, please LET ME KNOW. I have been operating on these beliefs for many years.

Same as with regular crimp dies. There are two tests:

1 If your bullets stay where you seated them through all the normal handling, jostling, recoil, etc. you crimp is either sufficient or too much. This is usually easy enough to determine.

2 If, during firing, the retention of the bullet while your powder burns allows buildup of pressure to your powder's proper operating levels, your crimp is adequate. This is more difficult to determine.

Lost Sheep
 
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