mosin nagant trigger work

Some people will make a shim out of a soda can and place one or several between the sear spring and the receiver where the sear spring screws in. Be careful as you will also be reducing the sear engagement. Make sure the rifle passes the "bump test" before taking it out to the range.

Sounds like you did most of this:

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/20...-gunsmiths-guide-to-the-mosin-nagant-trigger/

Here's another:

http://www.freesteader.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14

And a video guide to a two stage mod:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty_u4jo3GHc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I plan to work on improving / smoothing my trigger and bolt soon as well.

Good luck.

It varies from gun to gun from what I've heard. It's a trial and error thing. I would / plan to start with layers of soda can aluminum, one at a time. Free and easy to work with. If I end up stacking enough to make the thickness of a washer I'll swap out and 'upgrade'. At each new thickness you're supposed to put the bolt in, check to make sure it catches and can't be removed without pulling the trigger, check the trigger pull, close the bolt hard to make sure the firing pin doesn't drop, and after settling on a thickness and putting the action back in the stock make sure to do the drop/bump test.

Good luck and let us know how it works out for ya.

http://www.huberconcepts.com/Mosin-Nagant_Trigger_Replacement.htm

http://search.aol.com/aol/search?query=custom+moisen+nagant+triggers&s_it=keyword_rollover

kingcheese said:

the problem i ran into was the rifle failed to decock, it would release and do everything else fine but it wouldn't slowly decock, thanks for the help and I'm sure ill have a new project soon

Click to expand...

Come again? The Mosin has NO decock function except to fire it.

Kingcheese: I hope I didn't misslead you, when I mentioned "layers of soda can" I was referring to cutting a 'washer' shape from the side of the can and drilling a hole to fit the sear screw. This should fix the 'stability' problem. I'm also confused about the de-cocking comment you made as your holding the knob back is what controls how fast or slow it would de-cock.

I did what BluEyes suggested by installing shims under the sear screw; took the trigger from~0.75" travel to about 0.1" travel. Trigger sits further rearward in the housing now and has a more predictable break point.

Unload the rifle, cock it and close the bolt, then bounce the butt on the carpet about 10 times, hard. If the rifle is no longer cocked after this exercise, thin the shims--your trigger isn't safe.

So you polished the sear/trigger surface, correct? Try polishing the surface of the sear that engages the cocking piece.

_______/ /_ <The top right corner of the angled part of the sear if viewed from this side
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Turtle: great point, as I plan to do this as well what do you recomend polishing these parts with? Very high grit sand paper (1200-1600) or a polishing wheel on a dremel or what?

kingcheese said:

I decock my rifle by slowing down the knob, witch is attached to the

Click to expand...

Just be sure to never do this with a live round in the chamber! What you are doing is lowering the firing pin, and it would be pressing against the primer if there were a round in the chamber.

Turtle: great point, as I plan to do this as well what do you recomend polishing these parts with? Very high grit sand paper (1200-1600) or a polishing wheel on a dremel or what?

Click to expand...

I started with 600 grit lapping compound, then 1200. Really polished it up. I don't think you'll see an improvement from 1200-1600 grit.