ROA Nipple Problem

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ottsm

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Awhile back I posted a problem about one of my ROA's that was having lots of misfires.
Finally got around to trying some things.

Pushing the Remington #10's on with a wood rod did not help, still had misfires.

Then I swapped nipples with my other ROA and now it works fine. So it is the nipples.

The nipples that are a problem are not like my other two ROA's, the ones that work are stainless. The ones that don't work are steel and darker in appearance.

I used a micrometer and the overall length of both are exactly the same. Only thing that seemed to mic different was the very tip, the stainless ones are slightly smaller around only at the very tip by about 2/1000 (.163 versus .161). The base near the hex is the same. My guess is the steel nipples would work better with #11's. If course I've stocked up on #10's.

I could get the Treso nipples but they use a different wrench (thought I saw some that also had the hex but can't find them now)? On my older ROA's with the stainless nipples they work fine and never plug up with fouling. I've read that the Treso nipples have a smaller flash hole, and gives a hotter ignition and less blow back. But if it plugs off and makes the cap more difficult to come off after firing I'm not sure it's worth it. Not sure what size cap these take, most say CCI #11's?

I see on Ebay that "Uncle Mikes" has stainless ROA nipples for sale. Wonder if these would identical as far as using #10 caps?

Other option is to take to try and modify the steel nipples with sanding a lapping but probably best to just save them as is.
 
You're assuming a problem where none exists. I've never had Treso's clog up quicker than OEM steel. If anything it takes longer, if at all.
 
Yeah, I've never had a Treso clog with fouling, or any other nipple for that matter. I've had oil left in from cleaning. That's why I always fire off a round of caps with no charge in the cylinders first.
 
I bought the nipples from Track of The Wolf (PRA-S) and though they claim they were designed for CCI #11's they don't work. Misfires on most. I still have some old Rem #11's, which work every time, but will slide off of a couple of my nipples, which is why I changed them out in the first place.

I have been advised to try #10's, but have to do so.

I, too, wanted to use the hex head design as I had one time finding a nipple wrench (Craftsman nut driver).
 
The problem is that it takes several hits on the same cap to get the cap to ignite, even if they are pressed on with a wood rod. Not the other type of misfire where the cap ignites but the powder doesn't. The slightly smaller diameter of the SS nipples allows the caps to fire without a problem, at least that's what I assume.
Thanks for everyone's input on this, I'll probably stick with a hex head now that I know I have more options.
 
In ten years of the Treso/Remmington #10 combo, I have NEVER had to hit a cap twice.
Knock on wood (don't wanna jinx myself)
I put 'em on & seat 'em with the dowel end of an old ML short starter.
--Dawg
 
Track of the Wolf told me that Treso nipples were old and outdated so I bought the st. steel ones which will only work with Remington #11 caps.

What is a current source for Treso nipples?
 
Treso nipples are old and outdated, huh?
Kinda like our black powder guns.
 
Before you buy new nipples try some #10 caps. I've yet to try it, but that's what I've been advised. $6 is better than $36 since it's a trial.

Track's Ruger nipples (They told me) are designed with exterior dimensions of the Ruger with interior dimensions of the Treso nipples.
 
I found that the replacement nipples seem ~ the same exterior wise as the originals, and I don't see much of a difference with hot cap fragments falling on me...still happens.
Wish I would have tried the #10 caps prior...
 
I have bought them for years from the Possible SHop.
I know guys who have had very good luck with ROA factory nipples.
I had to hit 'em twice 5% - 10% of the time.
In a cowboy match, that's once every stage or two.
Ruins yer times.
Unacceptable to me.
So all 10 of my ROAs now wear Treso nips.
--Dawg
 
My ROA is AT LEAST 25 years old and I'm STILL using the nipples that came with it.
Don't know why you guys are having problems.
I use a pair of older ROAs in Cowboy Action competition, never had a problem with the Ruger factory nipples.

I started using a newer pair of ROAs in competition that came with Ruger factory nipples, and had a lot of failures to fire. I switched to Treso nipples on this pair, and the problems went away.

So, some Ruger nipples work fine, others don't. If yours work OK, go buy a lottery ticket.
 
I am using #10 Remington nipples. I have two other ROA's that don't have a problem with at all (they are older units with SS nipples). The ROA I'm having problems with is a "newer" highly polished SS with fixed sights. For some reason it has steel nipples (not SS), they are hex head, but perhaps they are not original, or did Ruger change to steel later?

As I said, when I mic'ed them, the steel ones are .002 larger at the tip only. This must be keeping the cap from sliding down enough to allow the nipple to ignite against the edge, even when I press them on with a wood dowel rod. I've tried with the chambers unloaded to really seat them as far as I dare without setting them off, still the same problem.
 
I finally found some Remington #10 caps at Gander Mtn. (they were out of # 11) and they worked like a charm on my st. steel Ruger nipples. The RWS # 10s that I had wouldn't begin to seat all the way. I noticed that the # 10 caps are shorter than the # 11s.
I'm going back and get 3 more tins before these are gone too.
 
I ended up getting Butler Creek/Uncle Mike's stainless steel nipples. Tried six dry fires and all of them worked. I don't expect any problems at the range. Learned a lot more about caps then what I knew before.
 
I have heard of problems with brand new nipples that wouldnt fire no matter how then cap was on them :uhoh:
 
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