Match ammo from a Dillon XL 650

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mwsenoj

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Looking for a way to load for my 260 on my Dillon press. I want to throw my powder charges using my chargemaster and already have the cases deprimed and pockets cleaned.

The procession:
1. Neck size with lee collet
2. Manually pour powder
3. Seat w/ Forster Ultra

Any reason this won't work *well*?
 
I've never seen a Dillon 20782 powder measure throw charges that were anywhere near as consistent as individually weighed charges. The one on my 550B throws charges that vary by .2-.5, and thats with everything lubed and tightened and with a new bellcrank cube.

Consistency IS accuracy, and its hard to get consistency in a Dillon powder measure throwing ball powder. If you weigh each load by hand or with an electronic trickler, you can get more consistency. Manual measuring also allows you to use stick powders like 4064 and 4895 which measure more consistently because the individual grains of powder are larger. You can't use stick powders in your Dillon 20782 on your 650 because they will bridge in the powder bar. The fancy electronic tricklers are nice but I've had good luck with the cheap plastic Lee powder dippers. Believe it or not volumetric powder measuring is very consistent. The trick is finding a dipper and powder combination that works out for your intended load.

Sad to say but making match ammo is just like anything else: fast, cheap, or good; pick two.
 
...and its hard to get consistency in a Dillon powder measure throwing ball powder.

I have the old style measures. Ball powders throw within 0.1. Small stick powders (H322, N133, etc.) throw almost as well.
 
I have not used a 650 so don't know if the same setup would work that I use on my 550. For rifle loading, I replace the Dillon measure with my RCBS Uniflow via a homemade adapter. It's use requires the powder funnel to be locked in place and the measure is cycled by hand. By doing that and using ball powder I can achieve +\-.1 gr repeatability.
 
The one on my 550B throws charges that vary by .2-.5, and thats with everything lubed and tightened and with a new bellcrank cube.
They will do better than that with 748, Ramshot TAC and x termanator and similar powders.
 
Ramshot TAC and WC844 are what I use in my 550B. Never seen it throw super consistent with either one. And once again, thats with everything properly lubed, tightened and a new bellcrank cube.
 
Just to be clear, I have no vision of getting the powder in the case by the Dillon powder measure. It would be completely removed and I would have to fashion a way to have a funnel fit so I could dump pre measured loads of H4335.
 
I use a turret press and an rcbs chargemaster. For rifle I use a lee universal rifle charging die, or load block. The lee pistol expander dies and universal rifle powder dies are the right size to keep lee's red funnel in place.

The lee red funnel occasionally bridges powder, so each dump from the powder pan also gets a couple taps from the pan.

Rough numbers, the chargemaster throws a charge every thirty seconds. (I have called RCBS before to optimize the dispensing- it was over shooting tiny 32acp charges.) On my lee turret press the slowest step is waiting for the chargemaster, even with small pistol charges. Obviously, with a progressive press, buying three chargemasters is the prudent answer.
 
Just to be clear, I have no vision of getting the powder in the case by the Dillon powder measure. It would be completely removed and I would have to fashion a way to have a funnel fit so I could dump pre measured loads of H4335.

Bench rest shooters use volumetric powder measures for their reloads. That is good enough for me to not bother weighing each charge once my powder measure is set.
 
Obviously, with a progressive press, buying three chargemasters is the prudent answer.

That could be an option since they are basically $250 right now if u use the manufacturer "$50 off $300" rebate! If only I had that job working for Google!
 
I can't speak for everyone, so I want. But while my Dillon 550 B is pretty consistent I would use an electronic digital scale to try and load Match loads for consistency.
 
I do all my case prep up front; generally prime by hand in front of the TV (doing a couple hundred in a sitting). So I have a 5 gal bucket full of primed brass, ready to go. I have a Culver measure that I charge with, then I seat on the Dillon. About half the time, I actually weigh my charges for the 600yd stages, if I have the time and gumption.

Sometimes I used the Dillon measure if I don't have a lot of time. Oddly enough, my best match scores have come this way. I shoot 4895 or 4064 pretty much exclusively.


I have loaded match ammo in fully-progressive on my 550, but I like getting the sizing/trimming business out of the way first. At that point, it's easier to hand prime (rather than loading priming tubes--plus it would get confusing since my sizing die is virtually lok-tited in place). Sizing does impact the consistency of the Dillon measure, but I haven't seen that it matters on a target.
 
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I'm not loading up much rifle on my 550, but my powder measure has been checked again and again, and I'm not having any of the problems you report with the Dillon measure. In my experience the Dillon PM seems to be right on the money.

One or 2 key words in the posts above keep striking my brain and making me wonder about the powder measure setup you guys are describing. Words like "properly tightened" and "tightened down" strike me as exactly opposite of what you really might want to get good, accurate drops. Tighten the 2 clamp/mounting screws 'yes'; secure the body of the hopper absolutely 'no'.

IMG_4278.jpg

To get consistent powder dumps on any volumetric powder measure you need consistent density. Therefore you want a consistent vibration to shake the measure to a consistent density. To do this on my late model bell crank Dillon PM, I use the old-style Dillon PM return spring (as you can see in the photo) slackened off just a tad to make the slide snap back. The snapping action is consistent due to the release cam on the bell crank. At that point the hopper gets a goodly jolt, thus leaving my "powder drops" right on the money. With this slight mod, I'd rate the Dillon PM right up there with the RCBS UniFlow or Redding, both of which I also own.

So your Dillon PM issue might resolve itself A) if the hopper is free to vibrate, and B) has the spring added to sling-shot the slide back home. And that's got to be $200 - $600 cheaper than any option mentioned above.

Hope this helps. ;)
 
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