Who does good action job SW 340?

Shoot it.

Or get some snap caps. I have a 637 that had a "stiff" trigger. It's nice now. Parts need to be worn in. Snap caps are cheaper than a trigger job. Save your money for ammo.

KevininPa said:

Or get some snap caps. I have a 637 that had a "stiff" trigger. It's nice now. Parts need to be worn in. Snap caps are cheaper than a trigger job. Save your money for ammo.

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I agree.. However if you must have a trigger job and don't have a local gunsmith you trust, send it to S&W.

J frames are hampered by their size with concerns to trigger pull. The small size makes for less advantageous geometry. The MIM parts do not polish well. Some gunsmiths will not do trigger jobs on them because of this.

It is not all bad news. MIM does "burnish" so dry firing will improve the action. Exercise your trigger finger too. And it is cheap!!!

Nelson Ford in Phoenix did mine and I'm very happy with it. $129 if I remember correctly.

Denny Reichard at Sand Burr Gun Ranch in Indiana will do his best-level trigger and reliability job and polish the trigger for $100, IIRC. He is a S&W-certified smith with a ton of experience.

There are several places I could recommend to send it to, but you likely have a good revolver smith locally that can tune your 340 nicely. I Googled "Seattle Tacoma revolver gunsmith" and found some good info.

KevininPa said:

Or get some snap caps. I have a 637 that had a "stiff" trigger. It's nice now. Parts need to be worn in. Snap caps are cheaper than a trigger job. Save your money for ammo.

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I'm all for dry firing, but it's no substitute for a bona fide action job done by a good gunsmith.

Be aware that, for reliability reasons, you shouldn't expect a light trigger pull on a SD revolver (j-frames in particular). Fortunately, smooth is better than light when it comes to actions, and a good 'smith can get you there.

And don't sweat the MIM thing - it'll tune nicely.

Mr. Boreland, one of the nicest fellows in the world, has good advice.

You will notice he said "it'll tune nicely" and such is true.

Tuning and polishing are two different terms.

BTW, most "action jobs" are merely spring changes and lube these days.

Heed his advice concerning over lightening a trigger. Remember that Jerry Michulek has VERY HEAVY triggers in his guns.

I've got a S&W 642, a kissing cousin to your 340. I didn't like the trigger on it so I bought the Wolff spring pack from Brownells. Took about an hour to install the main spring and rebound spring. The S&W already has a very nice trigger, it's just a bit on the heavy side.

Be very very careful installing a lighter weight mainspring. I used that same kit and started getting light strike failures a couple rounds per 50. For a carry gun, that is unacceptable. It's only a half pound diff between that and the factory mainspring, but it's enough to keep the gun from going BANG every time.

Smith has a fast turnaround on action jobs for J frames. Most other gunsmiths are going to take much longer. I'd try a lighter trigger return spring, and dry fire.

Triggers on J frame revolvers are on the heavy side for a good reason and should be left as is. Dry firing will smooth out the trigger a lot and IMO is as far as anyone should go with a SD revolver. You do not want a very light trigger on a SD revolver and messing with springs can cause reliability issues. J frames are for SD, not target shooting...