Value of "Sporterized" MilSurp?

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NukemJim

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Can anyone point me to a source or method of setting the price of a sporterized milsurp? A coworker inherited a number of them and I am trying to help them sort them out to sell. I have a number of references for the straight milsurp and of course there is the net.

But how they heck do you set a "fair"price for a one of a kind sporterized rifle? My understanding is that sporterizing actually decreases the value of the rifle but I do not know by how much.

I am up on ARs, Mini14s, and AKs but have no clue as to this stuff.

I am not asking for prices on exact models just if there is a source or rule of thumb.

Thank you

NukemJim
 
Well... it really depends on the rifle and how well the job was done.

Well-done jobs can be worth almost as much as the rifle in original condition, whereas poorly-done bubba jobs can be nigh unsellable.
 
Sight unseen, I'd say you'd be wise to set some low expectations for him. From my limited experience, seems like there are 12 bubba'a (or more) for every fine custom job.
 
A milsurp is most commonly sporterized for hunting purposes. At this point, you are evaluating the rifle like you would any hunting rifle. 1) availability and popularity of the round the gun is chambered in. 2) condition of the metal, bore condition and crown condition. 3) stock wood type, quality of finish and how well it is fitted to the action ie is it bedded, barrel floated etc. 4) any improvements like trigger jobs, bolt handle mods, drill and tap for scope mounts, quality and install of iron sights etc.
For example, if you have a 1903 Springfield that has had a nice Monte Carlo stock properly installed, barrel properly cut and nicely crowned, iron sights properly installed, reciever properly drilled and tapped, bolt handle modified by a skilled craftsman, it should be worth just about what a Remington 700 ADL chambered in 30-06 in appropriately used condition would be worth.
Often the cost and labour to convert these milsurps exceeds the actual end worth of the rifle.
 
There is no "sporterized" pricing rule of thumb that I'm aware of, only an eye for the true quality (or typically lack of quality) of the work. The percentage of "sporterized" rifles out there that are worth as much or more after being sporterized than what they would be worth in good original condition is probably <1%. Most "sporterized" Mausers and Springfields in my area sell for between $150 and $250 dollars. It's somewhat unusual to find one that is even done well enough to equal the value of the average used, factory sporter.
 
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Some of them might be good for a guy like me, who likes to work on rifles. I might could take some of the rougher, less well done ones, and expound/improve on what has already been done, rather than start out on a complete military rifle.
 
Seems there are more people interested in guns in stock configurations, So if you price a gun thats sporterized and add prices on used parts to get it back to stock. Its probably cheaper to buy a stock gun to begin with. So you have to price it accordingly. Its like building a custom classic car. For every buyer of a custom theres 10X the people looking for something stock. jim
 
Most can't be returned to stock. Drilled and tapped holes, bent bolt handles, cut down barrels, etc, are all pretty much permanent.

Mauser 98 sporters are the exception. The SOMETIMES can go for very high prices, if the work is excellent. Other than a few of those, I have never seen a sporter sell for more than $400. Most sell in the $200-250 range, tops. Resale is very tough unless it is an attractive rifle with good work and desirable features, or a sporter version of what would be an extremely rare model in original form. Amateur collectors and hobbyists tend to pay more for a sporterized version of a rare rifle simply because they cannot find or afford a real one, and the sporter is the next best thing. Those instances are pretty limited. Norwegian Krags are one of the few that come to mind.
 
If Bubba did the sporterizing (sawed stock, hacksaw barrel, etc), then a $1000 rifle (Springfield) could be worth $100. If it was done really well, then that $400 military Mauser could be worth $700. It is completely and totally dependent upon the quality of the conversion.
 
Its fairly easy to look up a collectors forum for military rifles, then fix on a price a collector would pay for an average piece, then cut your price in 1/2 or by 2/3rds and youll be in the right ball park for a sporterized military rifle.....Adding plastic stocks , scopes and such do absolutly nothing to increase the value of a cut up military rifle.

However, no matter whats been done, if you can shoot it straigt and YOU like it; priceless.
 
And many will look at your rifle and tear you a new one, explaining exactly what it was, and how much LESS it's worth now.

As for the rifle depends on it, where you are at, and how good you are at selling.
 
between 75 bucks at 1,000 bucks depending on the rifle, condition, quality of the work...etc

.Adding plastic stocks , scopes and such do absolutly nothing to increase the value of a cut up military rifle.

RAWR!!! that drives me insane when people throw on the cheap plastic ATI stock on a mosin or enfield or mauser and think it added 100 bucks to the value.
 
If a name cannot be attributed to the sporterization you're realistically looking at sub $200 guns.

Rare sights or outstanding woodwork may up the value on their own but don't bet on it.

I used to collect fine sporterizations form the 50-60's and era. Even when finely built seldom did I pay over $200 for one




posted via that mobile app with the sig lines everyone complains about
 
Post some pics, you might get an offer or two. I am actually in the market for a springfield 30-06 that has been sporterized, at least the wood. Would like all the metal intact.
 
Here's a pretty nice example of a "sporterized" Springfield. Nothing fancy about it, just the addition of a plain but nice stock and new sights, plus blueing the metal. I have a few Mausers that have also been sporterized and they are now far more valuable now than before. Basically, it's just a matter of who does the sporterizing.
 

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Here's a pricing example of one sporterized rifle that I bought last year----it's an Arisaka Type 99, rechambered in .300 Savage. Cost me a $1,000.00, but I'll tell ya, I couldn't open my wallet fast enough to pay that price. Thing is gorgeous and built like a tank;


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Whoops, I'm sorry----did I say a thousand dollars?? I meant to say one hundred bucks. Just gotta know where to shop...:D
 
I have a sporterized Swede that I bought for a song. The stock is high $$$. I had it drilled and tapped and the bolt cut down so I could sit a Leuopold 3x9x50 on it. Sweet shooting deer rifle that has virtually zero recoil.

The actual value of the rifle is probably about $250 but as a deer rifle it is probably $1000 with the scope and stock. The stock is custom engraved and close to perfect.
 
Here's a couple of my "sporterized" Argentine Mausers. Never underestimate Bubba
 

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Whoops, I'm sorry----did I say a thousand dollars?? I meant to say one hundred bucks. Just gotta know where to shop...:D

I was about to question your sanity, but after that "correction" you did indeed get a good deal :).

I'll only echo the sentiments of the other posters. Done right, the value vs stock will take a minor hit or might even pull a little extra. Done wrong, the rifle essentially becomes $100 junk.

Examples of things "wrong":

1. Adding a plastic stock. They're cheap and nobody wants them. If the "custom" sporter has a plastic stock expect a major value hit.

2. Having an original stock that has been "recontoured" or cut down. I don't care HOW nice a job it was, if they took the original military stock and tried to cut it into a sporter stock, its junk.

3. Leaving the original military sights on there. Often times the barrel might be cut back removing the front sight, but you'll often see the old military rear one left behind. This looks bad, and decreases the value.

4. Not being setup for scope use. Sporters are hunting rifles, and very few people want to hunt with irons anymore. If its not drilled and tapped with an appropriately modified bolt handle and safety, then they view that as an extra expense they'll have to take on.

5. Anything setup with a "scout" scope. That term itself annoys me. It's not a "scout" mount. Its an "I'm too lazy and/or cheap to do the job right" mount.

6. If a recoil pad was added by a home amateur and is chopped up and such. Just overall a bad thing.

7. If any "shortcuts" were taken during the process. For example, there are kits out there for Mosin Nagants and Mausers that, rather than have the bolt handle professionally bent or a new one welded on, allow you to cut the original off and SCREW on a new handle. Thats another value killer.

If any of the above are true, don't expect more than $100-200 for the rifle. If its actually a nicely done version with none of that, then they kinda have to be appraised individually.
 
It depends. I picked up a nicely sporterized German Mauser a few years ago to use as my hunting rifle. The work was obviously done in the 50s or 60s. The stock was nothing spectacular, but it was in decent shape; the kind of thing you don't mind taking through the brush. The bolt work and tapping was good, though. It's mechanically excellent, and a great shooter, and could be made much nicer with a nice stock from Boyd's. Overall it's probably worth around $500, but I got it for $250. I put a Nikon 6-18x40 scope on it and called it done.
 
Good advice above;

On some occasions, I've bought bubba'd guns for less loot than the individual parts go for for the same model - an example is a $50 Carcano i bought; took off the butt plate and barrel band i needed; and sold the bolt assembly for $25, the receiver for 20, and the rear sight for 25 as well.
 
In my experience it's also critical to pick the rifle up. I'm willing to bet you could blindfold me and I'd be able to tell you the good sporter from the cruddy one. The good sporters are well balanced. Someone took the time and trouble to add weight to the stock or take it away from the forearm to adjust the balance and feel of the piece. You'll find that with most pre-WWII sporters done by professional smiths. You'll also find quality checkering and detail work on the stock, and often length of pull adjustments. After WWII as the prices came down garage jobs became the norm and you end up with frankenguns.
 
Oooh, if we're doing sporterized picture stories, can I play? I picked these two up as part of a three rifle package deal for $450. The third was a truck gun 7x57 Chilean that's not so pretty to look at (cut down military stock, 18" barrel, 4x Weaver scope, not so good bluing, ugly bolt handle, etc. The other two, were real winners, done by a gunsmith in San Angelo back in the 50s or 60s:

1. Chilean Mauser 95, 7x57
-24" recrowned military barrel
-Single Stage Trigger
-Forged Bolt
-Bedded Walnut Stock w/ swivel sling studs
-D&T w/ Redfield 4X Scope
-Low Swing Safety
-Refinished
-Polished bolt and raceways

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2. Swedish Mauser M96, 6.5x55
-Recrowned 20" military barrel
-D&T with Weaver V9 scope
-Low Swing safety
-Forged bolt handle (not the best job, but I've seen worse)
-Fajen Walnut stock (it had a sporterized military stock on it when I got it)
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I would have given $450 for just the two of them, the 3rd project was just a bonus. Both are go to hunting rifles in my safe. The swede needs a bit more work yet. I'm planning on adding a Timney or Bold trigger, bedding the stock, and refinishing the outside of the stock. Eventually I'll probably get a better looking bolt handle put on and polish up the bolt some. For now, I'll keep shooting and enjoying it the way it is. You couldn't trade me a pair of new Remingtons or Winchesters for these.
 
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